spider don't eat
Answers:
what the??
huh?
Watch spiderman. Spiders have needle like hairs on thier legs. This allows them to climb up trees and almost anything. Plus having 8 legs helps too.
spiders have small hair on their legs and these hair get stuck in the small pores that tree has
Spiders have 8 legs to climb with %26 they build a web %26 insects get caught in the web %26 they eat the insects %26 the spiders can float on their webs if they want to move especially the babies the wind floats them away
Sunday, August 2, 2009
How do snakes get pregnant?
I just want to know how they get pregnant. Like cause snakes would cut their "thing" on the ground when they slither. So where is it and where is the uh.. girl snakes hole?(not perverted just curious)
Answers:
Snake Reproduction
Snakes produce offspring in 2 basic ways: The first involves development of the fertilized eggs within the body of the female. When the embryos are fully developed, the offspring are born, appearing like miniature adults. Boa constrictors, water and garter snakes, and rattlesnakes are live bearing species and are considered ovoviviparous. The second method involves deposition of oblong, leathery-shelled eggs within the environment, where the eggs incubate. At the completion of embryonic development, the eggs hatch, producing miniature adults. Pythons and rat and mild snakes are egg layers, and are considered oviparous. In either case, the newborn or newly hatched can fend for themselves and receive no parental nurturing.
Many snake species readily mate in captivity: One mating may result in up to 3 clutches of eggs or 3 "litters" of live young. This is because sperm can be stored within the reproductive tract of the female after insemination. The proper pairing of snakes according to age and sex is essential if reproduction in captivity is to be successful. Sexing of snakes can be difficult because males generally resemble females. Male pythons and boa constrictors have a spur on each side of the vent. Some females have spurs but they are usually smaller than those of males. These observations can be misleading at times. Snakes under 18 inches long can usually be sexed by exerting pressure on the tissues surrounding the vent. Male snakes have paired hemipenes (elongated, spurred structures used during copulation) that can be extruded with this maneuver. The widely accepted method for sexing most snakes over 18 inches in length requires specialized sexing probes. These elongated, blunt-tipped instruments are gently inserted into the vent and directed toward the tail. The probe penetrates only a short distance in females and a much longer distance in males. Only experienced handlers should attempt this procedure.
When a mommy snake and a daddy snake really love each other, they get wound up together, then the mommy gets pregnant
Male snakes have two "things" and they are stored in the base of the tail. They are individually everted from the cloaca during mating; the females "hole" is also the cloaca.
I sure hope I didn't spoil your Dad's birds %26 bees talk.
The man snake puts his thing in the woman snake and they do the snake equivalent of the bump and grind.
the to sanke rape around eachother
Both male and female snakes have the same "hole" persay, it's just a matter of what is inside of that hole, called a cloaca, located near the tail, it is easy to see, as the scales do change a color slightly.
The male snake near the cloaca (vent opening near the tail) has "claws", these are small, hook like protrusions that are used to stimulate the female snake during courtship. The actual act of copulation is actually kinda nifty, they simply wrap their tails together, with the cloaca's together, and the male's hemipinae come out of inversion, and using the claws, the male snake gets the female's vent (cloaca) open enough for the literal copulation to occur. Female snakes can also store sperm for a varying period of time, so actual time of pregnency starting is hard to tell, as some females will become gravid immediately, others will store the sperm and wait a week or so before releasing it into their bodies.
sex
Answers:
Snake Reproduction
Snakes produce offspring in 2 basic ways: The first involves development of the fertilized eggs within the body of the female. When the embryos are fully developed, the offspring are born, appearing like miniature adults. Boa constrictors, water and garter snakes, and rattlesnakes are live bearing species and are considered ovoviviparous. The second method involves deposition of oblong, leathery-shelled eggs within the environment, where the eggs incubate. At the completion of embryonic development, the eggs hatch, producing miniature adults. Pythons and rat and mild snakes are egg layers, and are considered oviparous. In either case, the newborn or newly hatched can fend for themselves and receive no parental nurturing.
Many snake species readily mate in captivity: One mating may result in up to 3 clutches of eggs or 3 "litters" of live young. This is because sperm can be stored within the reproductive tract of the female after insemination. The proper pairing of snakes according to age and sex is essential if reproduction in captivity is to be successful. Sexing of snakes can be difficult because males generally resemble females. Male pythons and boa constrictors have a spur on each side of the vent. Some females have spurs but they are usually smaller than those of males. These observations can be misleading at times. Snakes under 18 inches long can usually be sexed by exerting pressure on the tissues surrounding the vent. Male snakes have paired hemipenes (elongated, spurred structures used during copulation) that can be extruded with this maneuver. The widely accepted method for sexing most snakes over 18 inches in length requires specialized sexing probes. These elongated, blunt-tipped instruments are gently inserted into the vent and directed toward the tail. The probe penetrates only a short distance in females and a much longer distance in males. Only experienced handlers should attempt this procedure.
When a mommy snake and a daddy snake really love each other, they get wound up together, then the mommy gets pregnant
Male snakes have two "things" and they are stored in the base of the tail. They are individually everted from the cloaca during mating; the females "hole" is also the cloaca.
I sure hope I didn't spoil your Dad's birds %26 bees talk.
The man snake puts his thing in the woman snake and they do the snake equivalent of the bump and grind.
the to sanke rape around eachother
Both male and female snakes have the same "hole" persay, it's just a matter of what is inside of that hole, called a cloaca, located near the tail, it is easy to see, as the scales do change a color slightly.
The male snake near the cloaca (vent opening near the tail) has "claws", these are small, hook like protrusions that are used to stimulate the female snake during courtship. The actual act of copulation is actually kinda nifty, they simply wrap their tails together, with the cloaca's together, and the male's hemipinae come out of inversion, and using the claws, the male snake gets the female's vent (cloaca) open enough for the literal copulation to occur. Female snakes can also store sperm for a varying period of time, so actual time of pregnency starting is hard to tell, as some females will become gravid immediately, others will store the sperm and wait a week or so before releasing it into their bodies.
sex
How do snakes eat things that are bigger than them?
Answers:
their jaw unhinges so they can pretty much open their mouths as wide as they need to in order to get the larger creature inside of them. their body also stretches as the creature passes through and becomes digested.
They open their wide mouth and swallow it. That's how.
Snakes don't have any bones in their body allowing them to swallow things much bigger than they are. Basically "stretching" their own body around the bigger prey.
for one snakes DO have bones they have a backbone, ribs, and jawbones
the way they eat pray larger then them is they at kill it. which is why they constrict to suffocate their food... and they have larger scales on their belly that is very sensitive that can tell when the pray is no longer breathing or pumping blood
then the unaligned their jaw which is when they place their mouth around the pray... their jaws can unaline... that way they can stretch their mouth out very big... and the under part of their jaw they don't have a few scales so it can expand further
and with their body it can stretch up to 3 time bigger then the snakes size
that would be how they eat pray larger then them
They can stretch alot. And also they can un hinge there jaw bones so they can open there mouth at 180 almost And they can also breath while swallowing big prey
They actually dislocate their jaws from each other at the back, that's why they can take stuff larger than their heads.
When a snake flicks its tongue, it is gathering odor particles for transfer to two fluid-filled sacs at the roof of the mouth - Jacobson's organs - that lead to a second, smaller olfactory chamber. The tongue is used only to assist in this process! Hope it will help!
How do introduce a male bearded dragon with a female?
i have a female beared dragon which is yera old and im wanting to breed. the pet shop has reserved me a male which is a few month old. how do i introduce them both?
Answers:
1 year and the other 2 months not a good combo. the male will not be able to breed till he is around 5-7 months old. but basically to introduce them you put the male in with the female and watch them if she acts agressive towards him you will have to remove him till he is more her size. if they are the same size he should be the dominant one by bobbing his head and she will show her subdominance by head floating and arm waving. her head goes down slowly then back up a little quicker usually with an arm wave. if she shows dominance over him there is a good chance she could harm him. its never a good idea to keep 2 beardies in the same cage for a very long period of time. the breeding process can get pretty violent and may cause you a trip to the vet as the male tends to bite the females skin around her neck. also have you considered carefully your plan to breed? you will need equipment and other things that can be answered in a quick search through YA about beardie breeding.
http://www.kingsnake.com/gladescs/bearde... tons of great info on this sight.
well if they have names you can say well this here female is so and so, and then they will be introduced, easy, unless the dragon comes from wales then you will have to say (a duma
eich ddraig newydd budd un ovaliant iawn a chumer du amser)
Hello...carefully introduce them %26 watch to see how things go..especially if there is a big difference in size..most reptiles are solitary %26 only like each other when it's breeding time..also depends on what size the habitat is that you have them in.a 20 gallon tank is not big enough for 2 most definately %26 you might have to seperate them if they fight as some will fight to the death or sustain injuries that can cause death...Take Care :)
put them into one cage..make sure that there s a nice romantic music playing, clean tablewear etc..bearded dragons might prefer green lighting.
we have 2 females and a male.
they are all about the same age but we only got the male a few months ago.
when we got it we just put him in the same vivarium and then they start nodding and waving at each other.
just watch them for a bit obviously incase there is a bit of a scrap (unlikely.)
and the male shouldnt be under 6 months.
if it is then you should probably separate him from the female until he's 6-8 months.
Answers:
1 year and the other 2 months not a good combo. the male will not be able to breed till he is around 5-7 months old. but basically to introduce them you put the male in with the female and watch them if she acts agressive towards him you will have to remove him till he is more her size. if they are the same size he should be the dominant one by bobbing his head and she will show her subdominance by head floating and arm waving. her head goes down slowly then back up a little quicker usually with an arm wave. if she shows dominance over him there is a good chance she could harm him. its never a good idea to keep 2 beardies in the same cage for a very long period of time. the breeding process can get pretty violent and may cause you a trip to the vet as the male tends to bite the females skin around her neck. also have you considered carefully your plan to breed? you will need equipment and other things that can be answered in a quick search through YA about beardie breeding.
http://www.kingsnake.com/gladescs/bearde... tons of great info on this sight.
well if they have names you can say well this here female is so and so, and then they will be introduced, easy, unless the dragon comes from wales then you will have to say (a duma
eich ddraig newydd budd un ovaliant iawn a chumer du amser)
Hello...carefully introduce them %26 watch to see how things go..especially if there is a big difference in size..most reptiles are solitary %26 only like each other when it's breeding time..also depends on what size the habitat is that you have them in.a 20 gallon tank is not big enough for 2 most definately %26 you might have to seperate them if they fight as some will fight to the death or sustain injuries that can cause death...Take Care :)
put them into one cage..make sure that there s a nice romantic music playing, clean tablewear etc..bearded dragons might prefer green lighting.
we have 2 females and a male.
they are all about the same age but we only got the male a few months ago.
when we got it we just put him in the same vivarium and then they start nodding and waving at each other.
just watch them for a bit obviously incase there is a bit of a scrap (unlikely.)
and the male shouldnt be under 6 months.
if it is then you should probably separate him from the female until he's 6-8 months.
How do i tell what type of frog and is a water frog or not?
it has a big body like two huge balls at its side and its small and fat
Answers:
it kinda sounds like a cane toad. i doubt it is, but make sure it's not cuz those things are poisonous.
not much to go on, it might be a bull forg, I sujest going to a library and finding a field guid and looking in there
Pictures?
Answers:
it kinda sounds like a cane toad. i doubt it is, but make sure it's not cuz those things are poisonous.
not much to go on, it might be a bull forg, I sujest going to a library and finding a field guid and looking in there
Pictures?
How do I tell the sex on my two painter turtles?
Answers:
Look at the tail... Males have long thin tails while females' are short and stubby... Also you can not sex them until they are about 4-5 inches in length.
Here is a link to show you the many differences including tail size.
http://www.chelonia.org/sexing/sexing_ch...
The one that mounts the other is the male.
One tail should be longer than the other, however, I always get confused as to which one belongs to the male or female. Another way to tell is look at the bottom of your turtles' shells, the male should have an indent vs. the females should be flat. This is for mating purposes.
Silly...
Turtles don't have gender differences...(they'll all eu-nochs)
But "tortoises" have three...
An interesting "JackZen" fact I bet you didn't know...
How do I stop crickets escaping?
I breed crickets for my reptiles, what sort of things do you recommend to line the top of their box with so that they can't climb out. Some sa vaseline, some say sticky tape, I am worried this will stick the crickets to the box though and kill them, so I want something to make it slippery so they just fall back into box.
Answers:
The vaseline makes it slippery for them and they just fall. I got through the same problem with my bearded dragon cage. But trust me it does work and no crickets of mine has died from it yet, although the odd little bugger does escape (I think that's inevitable).
you should grease line it.
I used a very tiny holes from a screen door on mine and it worked.
Use a giant rubbermaid tote and put some screen on the top. We use an extra large dog food container, but a tote will probably cheaper than the setup we have. Couple screws, some plexiglass or wood, and some glue. You'll be good to go. After you cut the hole in the lid, cut some screen about an inch larger on each side. Put a line of glue around hole, lay the screen on it, screw on small pieces of wood/plexi glass on to the top to hold the screen on more firmly.
Put a screen lid on top of the container that you keep the crickets in.
just use a pickle jar, they can't climb glass.
Answers:
The vaseline makes it slippery for them and they just fall. I got through the same problem with my bearded dragon cage. But trust me it does work and no crickets of mine has died from it yet, although the odd little bugger does escape (I think that's inevitable).
you should grease line it.
I used a very tiny holes from a screen door on mine and it worked.
Use a giant rubbermaid tote and put some screen on the top. We use an extra large dog food container, but a tote will probably cheaper than the setup we have. Couple screws, some plexiglass or wood, and some glue. You'll be good to go. After you cut the hole in the lid, cut some screen about an inch larger on each side. Put a line of glue around hole, lay the screen on it, screw on small pieces of wood/plexi glass on to the top to hold the screen on more firmly.
Put a screen lid on top of the container that you keep the crickets in.
just use a pickle jar, they can't climb glass.
How do I remove a live snake out of my chicken coop?
I have a loose snake in with my chickens in the chicken coop. I need to remove the live snke.
Answers:
This snake is almost certain to be a member of the Rat Snake family, which are often called "Chicken Snakes" in the Southern US for this very reason. That means that it is a non-venomous contrictor, if this is the case. If you have any doubts though, or any suspicion that it is a venomous snake, it's best to contact someone to remove it for you rather than risk a bite. If it is indeed a Ratsnake, the best way to pick it up, if you're not really comfortable handling snakes, is to use a pillow case(make sure it doesn't have any holes in it!). With your hand inside the pillow case, pick up the snake by the front of its body-you don't have to necessarily pin it by the back of the head, just make sure that there is not enough length for it to reach around the pillow case and bite you! A bite won't be that bad(I've been bitten by 7-foot Rat Snakes), but again, if you aren't really comfortable handling snakes, it can be very unnerving. With your other hand, invert the pillow case over the snake's head and front part of its body, and push the rest inside the bag if it doesn't go in willingly(snakes will usually voluntarily crawl down inside a dark space). Be prepared for the snake to release some potent stinky musk from its cloacal glands, much like a skunk does, and it won't smell like roses! This is how they defend themselves, moreso even than with biting. Once the snake is in the pillow case, tie the end shut, making sure that you don't tie up part of the snake inside the knot, and carry it away to a good place to release it. Snakes are often more unwilling to strike at a pillow case or a towel than a bare hand, if the snake is even prone to biting at all, and many aren't unless you're actually hurting them. I just pick up non-venomous snakes like I'd pick up a kitten, and it's only on occasion that I encounter one that is really feisty and tries to bite.
very carefully.
put on some gloves and put it outside or place a sheet over it and pick it up.
Rake him out with a stick
call animal control...
very very carefully
With a pronged stick and a bag. Then again, I think you may do it wrong...seek assistance. I really would hate to tell you how and you get struck...
Call game and fish
357 comes to mind, 22 colt or Luger.
Answers:
This snake is almost certain to be a member of the Rat Snake family, which are often called "Chicken Snakes" in the Southern US for this very reason. That means that it is a non-venomous contrictor, if this is the case. If you have any doubts though, or any suspicion that it is a venomous snake, it's best to contact someone to remove it for you rather than risk a bite. If it is indeed a Ratsnake, the best way to pick it up, if you're not really comfortable handling snakes, is to use a pillow case(make sure it doesn't have any holes in it!). With your hand inside the pillow case, pick up the snake by the front of its body-you don't have to necessarily pin it by the back of the head, just make sure that there is not enough length for it to reach around the pillow case and bite you! A bite won't be that bad(I've been bitten by 7-foot Rat Snakes), but again, if you aren't really comfortable handling snakes, it can be very unnerving. With your other hand, invert the pillow case over the snake's head and front part of its body, and push the rest inside the bag if it doesn't go in willingly(snakes will usually voluntarily crawl down inside a dark space). Be prepared for the snake to release some potent stinky musk from its cloacal glands, much like a skunk does, and it won't smell like roses! This is how they defend themselves, moreso even than with biting. Once the snake is in the pillow case, tie the end shut, making sure that you don't tie up part of the snake inside the knot, and carry it away to a good place to release it. Snakes are often more unwilling to strike at a pillow case or a towel than a bare hand, if the snake is even prone to biting at all, and many aren't unless you're actually hurting them. I just pick up non-venomous snakes like I'd pick up a kitten, and it's only on occasion that I encounter one that is really feisty and tries to bite.
very carefully.
put on some gloves and put it outside or place a sheet over it and pick it up.
Rake him out with a stick
call animal control...
very very carefully
With a pronged stick and a bag. Then again, I think you may do it wrong...seek assistance. I really would hate to tell you how and you get struck...
Call game and fish
357 comes to mind, 22 colt or Luger.
How do I keep rattle snakes away from my house construction? What keeps rattlesnakes deterred?
I live in Lander, WY in the Red Cayon area. We are building a house and there is one rattle snake who has found a home in steel piping and I worry others may join him. I travel often and want to keep them at bay when I leave for awhile.
Answers:
Walls can be erected to discourage rattlesnakes from enclosed areas. A soild wall four feet high with a four inch lip at the top angling outward will discourage most snakes. The bottom of the wall should be sunk into the ground and have no tunnels under it. Rodents not only provide tunnels for access but also leave their scent. This is quite an attraction for a hungry snake on the move! Tunnels should be filled or covered with quarter inch hardware cloth. Gates should fit snugly against the ground since a one inch opening is an open door to a snake. Keep in mind that there is NO SUCH THING AS A 100% SNAKEPROOF FENCE. An athletic snake may climb virtually any wall, and a very tiny snake can move through the smallest of crevices.
Several products that claim to be snake repellents are on the market. Though fashionably marketed and high priced, there is currently NO SNAKE REPELLENT known to be effective. Be skeptical.
snake remover
You're worried others' may join him? One would be enough for me to deal with.YIKES!
Hmmmm, a man who owns a cattle farm once told me to spread sulpher around the borders of your property and it will keep snakes away.
look into a product called whitewash.
Get a Mongoose.
Mongooses are noted for their audacious attacks on highly poisonous snakes such as king cobras.
buy a shotgun the snake skin will make a nice boot
I don't know. Just whatever you do make sure its a safe way where nobody gets hurt including the snake. I guess you could probably call animal control and get them to hunt for it and place it somewhere safe. Please don't use any chemicals or anything. Most people dont like snakes but they are living things too. Good Luck!
You need to ask ur self what are snakes afraid of I use to live in a lake house had a very similar problem except it was water mochissin and the occasional rattler just not very offten we talked to tons of ppl and the only thing that worked for us was getting a sound recording of a hawk we put it on the second floor and set it to go off every once in a while and then there was no more snake problem i would suggest that u get some kind of weapon in case u come across one when waking around and have no other choice well good luck to u
try moth balls. but rattle snakes wont attack you or bite you for no reason. you have to think they lived there 1st where else are they supposed to go? The rattle snakes also get rid of rats and mice for you too. for free. The illness that rats and mice carry are way more deadly then a snake. Just think about that next time your eating mouse poop in your cereal.
Moving time!!
There is no such thing as a snake repellent, in spite of claims. I can tell you that sulfur does NOT deter snakes, since I've actually conducted a controlled experiment with one of my Biology classes on this, and the snake had no hesitation about crawling right through sulfur. Sulfur is a natural antibiotic, and I have actually used a sulfur-water solution to soak injured snakes in order to debrid and disinfect wounds, before there were commercial products for that purpose. Sulfur smells like eggs, and many snakes eat eggs, soooo...do the math. Moth balls dissolve with rain, and are very toxic to the environment, and many pets and children will eat them, with deadly results. Far more children in the US die from ingesting common household products that are toxic than die from venomous snake bites. Mongooses are illegal in the US, since they've created a horrible environmental problem in areas where they have been introduced, like in Hawaii. Their appetite for snake is greatly exaggerated, and they'd much rather dine on native birds and poultry, hence the ban.
The best way to deter snakes is to remove as many of the things that attract them as possible. Seal up the ends of pipes and other potential snake hiding spots with screen wire, and don't leave anything around that will attract snake food, which is rodents. Having a resident Kingsnake can actually deter other snakes, but I don't think that there are any Kingsnakes native to Wyoming, so that isn't an option. If you choose to live in an area where snakes are found, then you're going to see one on your property now and then. Learn to live with them, know their habits, and learn to be alert and aware of your surroundings. Be careful about placing your hands or feet where you cannot see everything around them, lest you wind up placing one on a dozing Prairie Rattler.
Answers:
Walls can be erected to discourage rattlesnakes from enclosed areas. A soild wall four feet high with a four inch lip at the top angling outward will discourage most snakes. The bottom of the wall should be sunk into the ground and have no tunnels under it. Rodents not only provide tunnels for access but also leave their scent. This is quite an attraction for a hungry snake on the move! Tunnels should be filled or covered with quarter inch hardware cloth. Gates should fit snugly against the ground since a one inch opening is an open door to a snake. Keep in mind that there is NO SUCH THING AS A 100% SNAKEPROOF FENCE. An athletic snake may climb virtually any wall, and a very tiny snake can move through the smallest of crevices.
Several products that claim to be snake repellents are on the market. Though fashionably marketed and high priced, there is currently NO SNAKE REPELLENT known to be effective. Be skeptical.
snake remover
You're worried others' may join him? One would be enough for me to deal with.YIKES!
Hmmmm, a man who owns a cattle farm once told me to spread sulpher around the borders of your property and it will keep snakes away.
look into a product called whitewash.
Get a Mongoose.
Mongooses are noted for their audacious attacks on highly poisonous snakes such as king cobras.
buy a shotgun the snake skin will make a nice boot
I don't know. Just whatever you do make sure its a safe way where nobody gets hurt including the snake. I guess you could probably call animal control and get them to hunt for it and place it somewhere safe. Please don't use any chemicals or anything. Most people dont like snakes but they are living things too. Good Luck!
You need to ask ur self what are snakes afraid of I use to live in a lake house had a very similar problem except it was water mochissin and the occasional rattler just not very offten we talked to tons of ppl and the only thing that worked for us was getting a sound recording of a hawk we put it on the second floor and set it to go off every once in a while and then there was no more snake problem i would suggest that u get some kind of weapon in case u come across one when waking around and have no other choice well good luck to u
try moth balls. but rattle snakes wont attack you or bite you for no reason. you have to think they lived there 1st where else are they supposed to go? The rattle snakes also get rid of rats and mice for you too. for free. The illness that rats and mice carry are way more deadly then a snake. Just think about that next time your eating mouse poop in your cereal.
Moving time!!
There is no such thing as a snake repellent, in spite of claims. I can tell you that sulfur does NOT deter snakes, since I've actually conducted a controlled experiment with one of my Biology classes on this, and the snake had no hesitation about crawling right through sulfur. Sulfur is a natural antibiotic, and I have actually used a sulfur-water solution to soak injured snakes in order to debrid and disinfect wounds, before there were commercial products for that purpose. Sulfur smells like eggs, and many snakes eat eggs, soooo...do the math. Moth balls dissolve with rain, and are very toxic to the environment, and many pets and children will eat them, with deadly results. Far more children in the US die from ingesting common household products that are toxic than die from venomous snake bites. Mongooses are illegal in the US, since they've created a horrible environmental problem in areas where they have been introduced, like in Hawaii. Their appetite for snake is greatly exaggerated, and they'd much rather dine on native birds and poultry, hence the ban.
The best way to deter snakes is to remove as many of the things that attract them as possible. Seal up the ends of pipes and other potential snake hiding spots with screen wire, and don't leave anything around that will attract snake food, which is rodents. Having a resident Kingsnake can actually deter other snakes, but I don't think that there are any Kingsnakes native to Wyoming, so that isn't an option. If you choose to live in an area where snakes are found, then you're going to see one on your property now and then. Learn to live with them, know their habits, and learn to be alert and aware of your surroundings. Be careful about placing your hands or feet where you cannot see everything around them, lest you wind up placing one on a dozing Prairie Rattler.
How do i keep my baby turtle tank warm!?
Had a fish tank hood with floeressent light bulbs and the temperture was about 80 degrees fareheit. now i have a clamp lamp and the temp is about 74ish. how do i keep the waater warm? oh ya, i have a water heater, and it works. but how do i warm up the air??
Answers:
The tank temp, if this is water, is fine. If this is the basking area, point the lamp directly down on the basking area and this will bring it up into the high 80s and leave the heater on in the water. Remember though, they don't just need the UVA/heat lamp, they also need the UVB lamp too. These emmit no heat though and need to be angled for the whole tank.
well i think you would just get a UV light? but I just found a quarter sized baby turtle and have no idea how to feed it take care of it or any thing else!! Help me!!!!!!!!
why dont you ask the pet store instead of a bunch of complete strangers online? wow. anyways hopefully you have some area for them to get out and walk around. turtles dont live completely in water. you need a uv light. you need heat. you need proper diet. google it.
Answers:
The tank temp, if this is water, is fine. If this is the basking area, point the lamp directly down on the basking area and this will bring it up into the high 80s and leave the heater on in the water. Remember though, they don't just need the UVA/heat lamp, they also need the UVB lamp too. These emmit no heat though and need to be angled for the whole tank.
well i think you would just get a UV light? but I just found a quarter sized baby turtle and have no idea how to feed it take care of it or any thing else!! Help me!!!!!!!!
why dont you ask the pet store instead of a bunch of complete strangers online? wow. anyways hopefully you have some area for them to get out and walk around. turtles dont live completely in water. you need a uv light. you need heat. you need proper diet. google it.
How do i identify what kind of turtle do i have?
found in lake in ga very small and unique shell.
thanks
Answers:
If you got it from a lake, then its probably just a red eared slider, or a map turtle, but since you said its shell is unique, is it very soft like leather, then it might be a soft shelled turtle. But im naming turtles that live in the south, so dont listen to me if you dont live there
you need to give a few more details about what it looks like
Don't touch it because turtles carry salmonella and that turtle can make you and your family very ill.
I found a baby turtile a few days a ago, its a size of a quater, I called a nearby pet shop, which they kind of helped me, but just search the web,
Jeez, with a lame description like that, sounds like you're trying to keep it a secret! Come on!
Try this link: http://www.austinsturtlepage.com/world_o...
Or, google '(your state) turtles' and see if you can find a photo directory of your local turtles. Many colleges, game and park departments, etc. run them.
thanks
Answers:
If you got it from a lake, then its probably just a red eared slider, or a map turtle, but since you said its shell is unique, is it very soft like leather, then it might be a soft shelled turtle. But im naming turtles that live in the south, so dont listen to me if you dont live there
you need to give a few more details about what it looks like
Don't touch it because turtles carry salmonella and that turtle can make you and your family very ill.
I found a baby turtile a few days a ago, its a size of a quater, I called a nearby pet shop, which they kind of helped me, but just search the web,
Jeez, with a lame description like that, sounds like you're trying to keep it a secret! Come on!
Try this link: http://www.austinsturtlepage.com/world_o...
Or, google '(your state) turtles' and see if you can find a photo directory of your local turtles. Many colleges, game and park departments, etc. run them.
How do i identify my RES's gender?
Its really been bugging me and I really have to know! so please help me!
Answers:
Generally you can't tell until they are 4 inches in diameter. Some tips that give you a general idea are that males have long front claws, females have short stubby front claws, males have a concave under belly, females usually have a more flat or convex under belly, males tails are wider and longer than females and females tails are usually short and stubby.
The only way to tell, and to be 100% sure, is when your turtle is 4" in diameter, their cloca (anus) will be either far out on the tail if it's a male and then really close to the body if it's a female. You can't sex them until they're 4 inches because when they're babies and under 4 inches, all of their clocas are close to the body. All of them would be sexed as female when this is not the case.
As a baby, it is very hard to tell its gender until the turtle is over a year old. But age doesn't really matter. Instead, the size of the turtle does.
how to tell:
Make sure your turtle is at least 4' inches long before determining.
Males
Males have longer front claws.
Long, thicker tail.
The bottom shell is more curved.
Females
Have shorter claws.
Shorter tail.
More flat shell. When fully grown, are significantly larger than males.
as a general rule males have longer claws, but for a definate gender look at and feel the plastron (bottom of shell) it will be flat if it is a femal, and concave if it is a femal.
Answers:
Generally you can't tell until they are 4 inches in diameter. Some tips that give you a general idea are that males have long front claws, females have short stubby front claws, males have a concave under belly, females usually have a more flat or convex under belly, males tails are wider and longer than females and females tails are usually short and stubby.
The only way to tell, and to be 100% sure, is when your turtle is 4" in diameter, their cloca (anus) will be either far out on the tail if it's a male and then really close to the body if it's a female. You can't sex them until they're 4 inches because when they're babies and under 4 inches, all of their clocas are close to the body. All of them would be sexed as female when this is not the case.
As a baby, it is very hard to tell its gender until the turtle is over a year old. But age doesn't really matter. Instead, the size of the turtle does.
how to tell:
Make sure your turtle is at least 4' inches long before determining.
Males
Males have longer front claws.
Long, thicker tail.
The bottom shell is more curved.
Females
Have shorter claws.
Shorter tail.
More flat shell. When fully grown, are significantly larger than males.
as a general rule males have longer claws, but for a definate gender look at and feel the plastron (bottom of shell) it will be flat if it is a femal, and concave if it is a femal.
How do I get over my fear of Lizards and mice?
Answers:
Most Psychologist will tell you the best way to get over any fear is to confront them. You need to spend time around them. I wouldnt go diving head first into a bin of them, but find someone who has them, someone that is understanding and patient and willing to help you overcome the fears. Just take baby steps. For 10 minutes just stay in the room by them. Ask the person to hold them near you but dont touch them. That person should NEVER try to tease you or scare you with them, they should just hold them out of the cage in there hands, near you. Then keep doing just that untill your fear subsides and then just take closer steps till your comfortable. Eventually have the person stand next to you with them, and eventually you can graduate to hold or touch them. You dont have to like every animal in the world, there is no law that says you have to like Mice and lizards, but fearing them to the point of a problem isnt healthy its a mental block. So just being in proximity of them is the first step to recovery. Dont feel bad though I love all animals and handle just about everything but I have an unresonable fear of get this. Crickets. Not every cricket just Brown Crickets. I tell ya give me a bat, snake, snail. leech, beetle, any day. BUT DONT GET NEAR ME WITH BROWN CRICKETS EEEEK. I told ya its weird.
why do you need to get over it...just avoid lizards and mice...shouldn't be that hard to do.
start by being near them then petting and eventually holding them
face it. i got over my fear of heights by facing it, but i still have a fear of gekos with bright eyes. i dont know why but they scare me, i can't go near them when i enter a pet shop. i also had a fear of playing my french horn in front of people, like in a solo, or for an audition, and i just recently got superior rateings for a solo a duet and an ensamble. if you face your fears you can be realy happy, and you will never regret it.
good luck, by the way texelgirl2 gave the best answer you could use.
How do i get my parents to let me have a lizard?
It is a long tailed grass lizard
How do i get my parents to let me have a lizard?
I have enough money to buy one and to take care of it for a while. I told her I will pay for the whole thing. Our family has two dogs and i am the only one that takes care of them i feed them i pick up their dog poop and everything.
Answers:
Show them that you are responsible and mature enough to keep one. You can start by helping around the house, like mowing the lawns, raking the leaves, and taking better care of your dogs. It may take some time, but it's worth the effort.
well my parents said to me "if you keep your bedroom tidy for three months you can have a water dragon" they only said it coz they knew i would be able to do it so maybe work on negotiating with them.
Same with me, I know whatcha mean... Idk put them on a guilt trip... I don't know
Hope everything goes well though...
I agree with them, help around the house when you are not asked to. That always, well all most always, works.
How do i get my parents to let me have a lizard?
I have enough money to buy one and to take care of it for a while. I told her I will pay for the whole thing. Our family has two dogs and i am the only one that takes care of them i feed them i pick up their dog poop and everything.
Answers:
Show them that you are responsible and mature enough to keep one. You can start by helping around the house, like mowing the lawns, raking the leaves, and taking better care of your dogs. It may take some time, but it's worth the effort.
well my parents said to me "if you keep your bedroom tidy for three months you can have a water dragon" they only said it coz they knew i would be able to do it so maybe work on negotiating with them.
Same with me, I know whatcha mean... Idk put them on a guilt trip... I don't know
Hope everything goes well though...
I agree with them, help around the house when you are not asked to. That always, well all most always, works.
How do i get my mom and dad to get me a LIZARD!?
Answers:
Do well in school.
Show respect to your parents and be good to your siblings. Do errands when you are asked. Help with the dishes,keep your room neat and clean,help with shopping,laundry and act lovingly to your family. Be honest.Show them you are responsible and capable of caring for an animal. Study the needs and care of the kind of lizards you like and share your knowledge with them.
If you deserve it,your parents may help you. If not,wait till you grow up and you're on your own.
Show them how responsible you are. Keep your room clean, help with the dishes, do your homework in a timely manner.
If you don't want crickets around the house, get one that just eats greens...it may be easier to convince you parents that way. Good luck!!!
if you get a mali uromastyx, they only eat veggies! and they are REALLY easy to take care of! so all you need is like $100 bucks to get the tank and all the supplies. so you could help them out doing odd jobs, and getting paid for them. or if you really really want one (depending on your age) you could get a job! that would really show them now much you want one.
as far as researching lizards i would google it. dont trust everything you see here. one guy above me said get a uromastyx because they only eat veggies. wrong.
heres info on them from a care sheet..
Uromastyx are omnivorous which means they consume both animal and plant materials. Since there is no data about the specific nutritional requirements of this genus a large variety of food items should be offered. Young animals more readily accept insects such as wax worms, crickets, and super meal worms, which should be offered three or four times per week. The following vegetables should be offered; kale, collard greens, mustard greens, sweet potatoes, carrots, peas, corn, and green peas. In addition, dandelion greens, alfalfa, grass, and flowers can be added to the diet. Beans such as split peas, lentils, navy beans, and other should also be provided. Some of these beans can be sprouted prior to feeding. Bird seed should also be mixed in with the salad. A reptile vitamin containing calcium should be sprinkled on the salad. Some of the commercial iguana chows can also be mixed in with the salad to ensure better nutrition. There are some indications that nutritional needs are not easily met for this genus. Several herpetoculturists who are raising young Uromastyx aegyptius and Uromastyx acanthinurus report slow growth rates. For example, I obtained two captive born Uromastyx aegyptius that were three inches long. Within eight months one animal was five inches long and the other 11 inches and much bulkier. The only difference in husbandry was that the larger animal would eat insects and smaller one would not. I have also observed slow growth in captive born Uromastyx acanthinurus.
looks like hes wrong and they eat veggies and insects for a complete balanced diet.
i would reccomend printing out info on crested geckos. they are the easiest to care for, and no b.s. they can be fed water, vitmamin powder, and canned baby food as a complete diet. they are totally tame, can be kept in a 5 dollar plastic container from walmart, or a 10 gallon aquarium. they are the best beginner lizard, and are tame from the start.
www.thecrestedgecko.com
i would give your parents as much info printed out as you can for them to read. your grades should already be good, your room should alread be clean, etc. so im not going to get into that. show them you are informed and ready to take on the responsibility.
i wanted a turtle when i was young but my parents wouldn't get me one, so when i was out shopping with my grandma on my birthday, she bought it for me. and my parents just excepted it cause i was so happy
How do I find a Leopard Gecko breeder?
I live in Washington, northwest of Seattle. I am looking for a Gecko breeder because I don't want to buy one from a pet shop since I have heard they are sometimes unhealthy. I have looked online but cannot find any list of breeders. Any suggestions?
Answers:
Hello,
Here is one of the best sources for breeders of pretty much any reptile. Kingsnake.com is the best portal in the U.S for reptile breeders. Theres is a wealth of information on naything you could imagine.
the link below will take you to the leopard gecko section.
http://market.kingsnake.com/index.php?ca...
Good Luck
I've found some through google searches for breeders but the most promising one is the state Herp Society in Spokane. I'm in West Seattle and looking for a bearded dragon so basically in the same boat. If I run across more leos I'll let you know.
Answers:
Hello,
Here is one of the best sources for breeders of pretty much any reptile. Kingsnake.com is the best portal in the U.S for reptile breeders. Theres is a wealth of information on naything you could imagine.
the link below will take you to the leopard gecko section.
http://market.kingsnake.com/index.php?ca...
Good Luck
I've found some through google searches for breeders but the most promising one is the state Herp Society in Spokane. I'm in West Seattle and looking for a bearded dragon so basically in the same boat. If I run across more leos I'll let you know.
How do I figure out the age of my red footed tortoise?
Yes, I've googled it, I couldn't find anything.
Answers:
1. The only way to KNOW the age is to see it be born.
2. You can GUESTIMATE the age by size. Use a growth chart, such as this one: http://www.geocities.com/redfoot_tortois... (I know there are better logs out there, but they are hard to Google.
3. It does not really matter what age they are. Red-foots are usually separated by size rather than age. They become sexually mature at around 7" long, are considered babies to about 4", etc.
That's a tough one because growth rate varies so widely with diet and temperature. My hatchlings are about 3 1/2 to 4 inches straight carapace length after a year, 2 year olds are about 5 to 6 inches. Once they are adult size a 30 year old does not look any different then a 10 year old.
The only way I know is by getting captive born , I have 2 col.red foots that are 1 yr and are about 3 1/2" long .My leopards aer 10" and 4 1/2" long , Now adays it's so hard to know just how old an animal is unless you get it captive bred...Unfortunatly not all the pet breeders are honest,and they sell wild caught as captive born...So if you got one as a hatchling and were raising it you could get a good idea on its age , other wise it's tough...
Answers:
1. The only way to KNOW the age is to see it be born.
2. You can GUESTIMATE the age by size. Use a growth chart, such as this one: http://www.geocities.com/redfoot_tortois... (I know there are better logs out there, but they are hard to Google.
3. It does not really matter what age they are. Red-foots are usually separated by size rather than age. They become sexually mature at around 7" long, are considered babies to about 4", etc.
That's a tough one because growth rate varies so widely with diet and temperature. My hatchlings are about 3 1/2 to 4 inches straight carapace length after a year, 2 year olds are about 5 to 6 inches. Once they are adult size a 30 year old does not look any different then a 10 year old.
The only way I know is by getting captive born , I have 2 col.red foots that are 1 yr and are about 3 1/2" long .My leopards aer 10" and 4 1/2" long , Now adays it's so hard to know just how old an animal is unless you get it captive bred...Unfortunatly not all the pet breeders are honest,and they sell wild caught as captive born...So if you got one as a hatchling and were raising it you could get a good idea on its age , other wise it's tough...
How do I entice my African Dwarf frog to eat the new food I got him?
I have fish in the tank along with the frog, and I was feeding them all TetraMin tropical flakes. I read that flakes are not really good for aquatic frogs, so I got him ReptoMin food sticks. It said on the container that it is for aquatic turtles, newts, and frogs. I put a couple in the tank, but how will he know to eat them? The other fish have nibbled at them but they are too big to fit in their mouths. Honestly, I doubt he'll notice them until they sink to the bottom.
Answers:
The reptomin is a floating food and the way the dwarf frog finds it is by smell. Most dwarfs like sinking foods not floating foods. Do not feed him frozen bloodworms as others have mentioned on a daily basis because they can cause bloat in your frog. They are good as a treat now and then but not everyday. Please go to this website and join it is a great group about adfs and they have a list of different kinds of foods you can feed him.
http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/dwarf...
Actually there proably to big for him too, get him some blood worms, they sink faster and they like them better.
All the african dwarf frogs, I've had have always eaten blood worms..frozen or fresh.
Answers:
The reptomin is a floating food and the way the dwarf frog finds it is by smell. Most dwarfs like sinking foods not floating foods. Do not feed him frozen bloodworms as others have mentioned on a daily basis because they can cause bloat in your frog. They are good as a treat now and then but not everyday. Please go to this website and join it is a great group about adfs and they have a list of different kinds of foods you can feed him.
http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/dwarf...
Actually there proably to big for him too, get him some blood worms, they sink faster and they like them better.
All the african dwarf frogs, I've had have always eaten blood worms..frozen or fresh.
How do I de-worm my turtle.?
My uncle says the Chineses will pay me for them but I have to grab them first.
Answers:
LMAO, that was a funny one
#1 i didn't know turtles had worms, but it stands to reason that they do, your vet can tell you what to do in this situation, not me, but i have had box turtles, queen, and snapper. i always let them go after a while because i would find them on the road and was scared they would get killed. also i have ate turtles, grown ones, they are good.but expensive.
Im not sure what you mean by the chinese thing.
but to deworm you turtle talk to your vet.
i commonly use 3 deworming preparations in 2 treatments 14 days apart.
fenbendazole and metronidazole given as a gavage (by stomach tube) to kill the round worms and the flagellates
and an injection of praziquantel to kill the tape worms.
once dewormed use of apropriate hygien techniques and proper houseing and husbandry will reduce re infection, so in a closed collection little deworming will be required after this first 2
You are suggesting that if you get the worms out of your turtle, someone will pay for them?
Dream on, kid. There is no way to get parasitic worms out of the turtle without killing either the turtle or the worms.
Any wild caught turtle will carry a huge load of worms- tapeworms, heartworms, white worms, etc. These are not normally a problem until the animal is badly stressed, such as being taken into captivity.
Captive-bred turtles rarely have worms unless they have been in contact with turtles or fecal materials with worms.
It takes powerful poisons to kill worms (in any species of animal). The poison must be strong enough to kill at least some of the worm species without killing the host- a real problem! ONLY a vet or very experienced expert should decide which medicine and how much to use.
To get the worms out alive, all you have to do is to kill the turtle and cut it up to get to the worms.
Some worms will naturally crawl out on their own in some circumstances- but not enough to help you.
Answers:
LMAO, that was a funny one
#1 i didn't know turtles had worms, but it stands to reason that they do, your vet can tell you what to do in this situation, not me, but i have had box turtles, queen, and snapper. i always let them go after a while because i would find them on the road and was scared they would get killed. also i have ate turtles, grown ones, they are good.but expensive.
Im not sure what you mean by the chinese thing.
but to deworm you turtle talk to your vet.
i commonly use 3 deworming preparations in 2 treatments 14 days apart.
fenbendazole and metronidazole given as a gavage (by stomach tube) to kill the round worms and the flagellates
and an injection of praziquantel to kill the tape worms.
once dewormed use of apropriate hygien techniques and proper houseing and husbandry will reduce re infection, so in a closed collection little deworming will be required after this first 2
You are suggesting that if you get the worms out of your turtle, someone will pay for them?
Dream on, kid. There is no way to get parasitic worms out of the turtle without killing either the turtle or the worms.
Any wild caught turtle will carry a huge load of worms- tapeworms, heartworms, white worms, etc. These are not normally a problem until the animal is badly stressed, such as being taken into captivity.
Captive-bred turtles rarely have worms unless they have been in contact with turtles or fecal materials with worms.
It takes powerful poisons to kill worms (in any species of animal). The poison must be strong enough to kill at least some of the worm species without killing the host- a real problem! ONLY a vet or very experienced expert should decide which medicine and how much to use.
To get the worms out alive, all you have to do is to kill the turtle and cut it up to get to the worms.
Some worms will naturally crawl out on their own in some circumstances- but not enough to help you.
How do i change my avatar?
seriously, mine doesent even look like me >:0
Answers:
Your avatar is permanent.
You can, however, get cosmetic surgery and make yourself look like your avatar.
edit my info
I think u have to get a new pass word. Or I wouldn't know what else to tell u.
where its says "Welcome, .."
below it, it says [Sign Out, My Account]
click my account and scroll down till you see the picture options and click change options
just go to your profile click edit then click edit my avatar make any changes you want and save go back to the other screen and save also you should have a modified avatar
click on ur avatar and it will take u to ur profile then click where it says edit my info and there will be a picture of ur avatar click on it then change it to what u want
get into your mail and click on it then choose from the tabs on the top
appearance - has face shape and hairstyles with color
apparel - has full outfits, tops, bottoms, and plus sizes
extras - has purses, pet, and holiday items
backgrounds - has backgrounds obviously
have fun
Answers:
Your avatar is permanent.
You can, however, get cosmetic surgery and make yourself look like your avatar.
edit my info
I think u have to get a new pass word. Or I wouldn't know what else to tell u.
where its says "Welcome, .."
below it, it says [Sign Out, My Account]
click my account and scroll down till you see the picture options and click change options
just go to your profile click edit then click edit my avatar make any changes you want and save go back to the other screen and save also you should have a modified avatar
click on ur avatar and it will take u to ur profile then click where it says edit my info and there will be a picture of ur avatar click on it then change it to what u want
get into your mail and click on it then choose from the tabs on the top
appearance - has face shape and hairstyles with color
apparel - has full outfits, tops, bottoms, and plus sizes
extras - has purses, pet, and holiday items
backgrounds - has backgrounds obviously
have fun
How do I care for a box turtle?
My 3 yr old son got a turtle and not sure how to care for it. Where can I find some info about this turtle and how to care for it.
Answers:
Do an internet search or go to your library for books
To save you some time here are some tips
Box turtles are omnivores so they need meat and plants, they LOVE watermellon, tomatoes, slugs, and earth worms. In my experiance these are thier favorent foods (the worms and slugs need to be live for them to be interested) they will eat whenever there is food, so just give them some every day, if you miss a day or two don't worry they can go for several months without eating (but it is not advisable that you try not feeding him for that much time). He needs a source of water large enough that they can get into it from time to time (just be shure it is not too deep ot they might drown, most of them don't swim very well, but occasionally you find one that does), He will also need some dirt to dig in. If he is outside then he douse not need a source of light, if he is inside then he will need a heat lamp, he will also need a hallow log or something he can get into to hide, also they love tall gress so if you can get some to grow in the cage that would be great.
Enjoy your turtle
google it or go to your local petstore and find some books about turtles or ask someone that works there.
Answers:
Do an internet search or go to your library for books
To save you some time here are some tips
Box turtles are omnivores so they need meat and plants, they LOVE watermellon, tomatoes, slugs, and earth worms. In my experiance these are thier favorent foods (the worms and slugs need to be live for them to be interested) they will eat whenever there is food, so just give them some every day, if you miss a day or two don't worry they can go for several months without eating (but it is not advisable that you try not feeding him for that much time). He needs a source of water large enough that they can get into it from time to time (just be shure it is not too deep ot they might drown, most of them don't swim very well, but occasionally you find one that does), He will also need some dirt to dig in. If he is outside then he douse not need a source of light, if he is inside then he will need a heat lamp, he will also need a hallow log or something he can get into to hide, also they love tall gress so if you can get some to grow in the cage that would be great.
Enjoy your turtle
google it or go to your local petstore and find some books about turtles or ask someone that works there.
How do i build a snake cage and can i get all of the supplies at Home Depot?
I have a cali king snake and want to build a cage of wood and glass, and a mesh cover for air. i used to have one with a sliding screen but it stopped sliding properly so i would rather install a hinge so i could open the door and just cut out a few holes and cover them with mesh. the cage needs to be approx. 3'x2'. Thanks for your answers
Answers:
Hello..hopefully you don't live in Calif, it's illegal to have native wild creatures in your possesion, caged !! If you bought this snake, they will know best how to answer %26 build or just follow their designs, all things should be available @ any hardware store, just remember not done right it will kill the snake, that's why reptile stores are best to use !!! Take Care
i would buy a snake cage because it is probably cheaper and prabably more sturdy and i can tell your snake will love it i bet it is easier to clean
yeah if your good at that suff. just remember snakes are escape artists..keep that in mind while your building it. i dont think you could get a heating pad from home depot tho.
You could probably buy the material needed to build a decent CAGE ONLY from Home Depot for as little as 80 dollar. Heattape/Thermometer/Humidity Guage/Basking Light all of these supplies could be purchased online or in a pet store. By the time you're done building your own you could have simply just purchased a 55gallon for $80-100.
Answers:
Hello..hopefully you don't live in Calif, it's illegal to have native wild creatures in your possesion, caged !! If you bought this snake, they will know best how to answer %26 build or just follow their designs, all things should be available @ any hardware store, just remember not done right it will kill the snake, that's why reptile stores are best to use !!! Take Care
i would buy a snake cage because it is probably cheaper and prabably more sturdy and i can tell your snake will love it i bet it is easier to clean
yeah if your good at that suff. just remember snakes are escape artists..keep that in mind while your building it. i dont think you could get a heating pad from home depot tho.
You could probably buy the material needed to build a decent CAGE ONLY from Home Depot for as little as 80 dollar. Heattape/Thermometer/Humidity Guage/Basking Light all of these supplies could be purchased online or in a pet store. By the time you're done building your own you could have simply just purchased a 55gallon for $80-100.
How could i...?
I have a corn snake that hasn't eaten in like 3 months (don麓t ask why) and i finally found some pinkies in my country (obviously not US) but my snake is not eating any. My snake is 14 inch long and i'm not sure about it's age. PEASE HELP
Answers:
Hello..well they need some 90 degrees of warmth all the time..in some spot or another and have to have rodent or small lizards to eat..doesn't have to be mice or rats %26 they can eat anything that is twice the width of their heads ..if it's a baby or small, they also eat bugs..like beetles, crickets, etc ..DO NOT FEED LIVE RODENTS once they get past eating fuzzies tho, or the rodent often bites the snake ..they also need a soaking / water dish, one they can get into %26 soak in if they wish, also check for mites, little bugs that get under the scales, specially if he's scratching on things alot, then you have to bathe them in a warm bucket or bath tub of water..tho many snakes like a good swim which can help increase their appetites as well, if it's mites, you have to remove all bedding, use no bedding - snakes don't really need it, clean %26 soak anything you have in his cage @ least once a week for a few weeks in HOT water, completely submerge it for about an hour @ least, also spray %26 wipe his habitat thoroughly, specially corners...never use laundry, bleach or detergents tho ..Force feeding is not good to do %26 should ONLY be done by ...experts or vets !! Take Care :)
it shouldnt be eating pinkys it should be eating small mice.
Usually in this case, force-feeding is needed. Can you get your animal to a reptile specialist? They can show you how to do this procedure (it isn't any fun.)
Get some young mice, take out hs water and set the temperature up by a few degrees. Leave it for a day. Put the mouse inside, if he doesn't take it, you'll need to get it force-fed.
Answers:
Hello..well they need some 90 degrees of warmth all the time..in some spot or another and have to have rodent or small lizards to eat..doesn't have to be mice or rats %26 they can eat anything that is twice the width of their heads ..if it's a baby or small, they also eat bugs..like beetles, crickets, etc ..DO NOT FEED LIVE RODENTS once they get past eating fuzzies tho, or the rodent often bites the snake ..they also need a soaking / water dish, one they can get into %26 soak in if they wish, also check for mites, little bugs that get under the scales, specially if he's scratching on things alot, then you have to bathe them in a warm bucket or bath tub of water..tho many snakes like a good swim which can help increase their appetites as well, if it's mites, you have to remove all bedding, use no bedding - snakes don't really need it, clean %26 soak anything you have in his cage @ least once a week for a few weeks in HOT water, completely submerge it for about an hour @ least, also spray %26 wipe his habitat thoroughly, specially corners...never use laundry, bleach or detergents tho ..Force feeding is not good to do %26 should ONLY be done by ...experts or vets !! Take Care :)
it shouldnt be eating pinkys it should be eating small mice.
Usually in this case, force-feeding is needed. Can you get your animal to a reptile specialist? They can show you how to do this procedure (it isn't any fun.)
Get some young mice, take out hs water and set the temperature up by a few degrees. Leave it for a day. Put the mouse inside, if he doesn't take it, you'll need to get it force-fed.
How Common is it to own a pet snake in India? Particularly a cobra?
and is it normal for kids to play with snakes tlike cobras in india? any links to website with info on this would be apreciated, thanks!
Answers:
i hatee snakes
It is not common.
Hello...definately NOT common with cobra's...they do have snake charmers who claim to be experts %26 all, but not good to mess with cobras at any time !!! Take Care
www.gotpetsonline.com/cobra
Highly venomous and can kill in a single strike.its poison is neurotoxic and will attack the nervous system.
snakes know no masters and dont even think of keeping a cobra as pet... its likekeeping a ticking time bomb with u if it bites u,,,, u will be playing guitar in the heaven within minutes..
a cobra? i think you need a permit for that. if you dont know about this then you probably have should not have one. get a ball python or something stay away from the venomus stuff
I know the video of which you are referring to, of the baby in India and the Cobra with its mouth sewn shut. This is a common practice among so-called "snake charmers" in India; the snakes have had their mouths stitched shut so they cannot bite, or EAT and drink, which means that they will slowly starve to death. These people put their kids with such snakes to get them used to the snake. The snake is NOT a pet, but nothing more than a prop to be used and discarded as a means of conning people who do not know that the snakes cannot bite into thinking that the "snake charmer" has some magic power over the animals that keep them from being bitten, so they will pay a lot of money to watch the "show". In one episode of the "Crocodile Hunter", Steve Irwin showed how these snakes are mutilated in the name of "entertainment"; not only are their mouths stitched shut, but often their fangs are removed by using a knife to cut out the upper jawbone to which the fangs are attached.
oh my god!!! snake r dangerous!!! especially COBRA!!
it is not common becouse::
it is cobra.
Answers:
i hatee snakes
It is not common.
Hello...definately NOT common with cobra's...they do have snake charmers who claim to be experts %26 all, but not good to mess with cobras at any time !!! Take Care
www.gotpetsonline.com/cobra
Highly venomous and can kill in a single strike.its poison is neurotoxic and will attack the nervous system.
snakes know no masters and dont even think of keeping a cobra as pet... its likekeeping a ticking time bomb with u if it bites u,,,, u will be playing guitar in the heaven within minutes..
a cobra? i think you need a permit for that. if you dont know about this then you probably have should not have one. get a ball python or something stay away from the venomus stuff
I know the video of which you are referring to, of the baby in India and the Cobra with its mouth sewn shut. This is a common practice among so-called "snake charmers" in India; the snakes have had their mouths stitched shut so they cannot bite, or EAT and drink, which means that they will slowly starve to death. These people put their kids with such snakes to get them used to the snake. The snake is NOT a pet, but nothing more than a prop to be used and discarded as a means of conning people who do not know that the snakes cannot bite into thinking that the "snake charmer" has some magic power over the animals that keep them from being bitten, so they will pay a lot of money to watch the "show". In one episode of the "Crocodile Hunter", Steve Irwin showed how these snakes are mutilated in the name of "entertainment"; not only are their mouths stitched shut, but often their fangs are removed by using a knife to cut out the upper jawbone to which the fangs are attached.
oh my god!!! snake r dangerous!!! especially COBRA!!
it is not common becouse::
it is cobra.
How come my red ear'ed slider is losing it's shell color?
I had it for about a year. I fed it the same type of food since I got them and as they grew larger, they began to lose their shell color. For example It use to be really green, now it's basically fading away.
Please help >%26lt;
Answers:
This isn't a bad thing. It's normal. Depending on the age of thr turtle, this is actually supposed to happen. Many times with RES they lose their color as they age and their shells actually become dark brown or black in color. It just means that your turtle is aging. Now, if it is becomming soft or raised or fuzzy then this is bad. This is either shell rot, a fungus, or soft shell; all three are life threatening. If this is occuring then you need to see a vet.
Not to worry, this is normal. When turtles grow their shell, they loose the old scales on them. The old scales still hold on to the shell, but because they are translucent-yellow colour, then it makes the shell look faded. Don't pick at the scales, let them fall off naturally. My Red Eared Slider also sheds about once a year. Because the scales are loose, you might also see tiny air pockets under the scales.
After your turtles sheds the translucent-yellow scales, then its colour will get back to normal.
This is just the normall ageing for turtles, they naturally loose thier color as they get older, don't worry.
Getting duller and darker? Perfectly normal! Most turtles do this, and Red-ears do it a LOT.
it's shell is probably just growing so the old scales are going to flake off its color will go back to normal after don't worry i have 3 %26 they've all done it a dozen times
this is the smae concept as humans and hair color. as we age we lose our hair color and it turns more grey or lighter. with turtles they simple lose thier brilliance and turn darker or less virbrant. this is perfectly normal though.
Please help >%26lt;
Answers:
This isn't a bad thing. It's normal. Depending on the age of thr turtle, this is actually supposed to happen. Many times with RES they lose their color as they age and their shells actually become dark brown or black in color. It just means that your turtle is aging. Now, if it is becomming soft or raised or fuzzy then this is bad. This is either shell rot, a fungus, or soft shell; all three are life threatening. If this is occuring then you need to see a vet.
Not to worry, this is normal. When turtles grow their shell, they loose the old scales on them. The old scales still hold on to the shell, but because they are translucent-yellow colour, then it makes the shell look faded. Don't pick at the scales, let them fall off naturally. My Red Eared Slider also sheds about once a year. Because the scales are loose, you might also see tiny air pockets under the scales.
After your turtles sheds the translucent-yellow scales, then its colour will get back to normal.
This is just the normall ageing for turtles, they naturally loose thier color as they get older, don't worry.
Getting duller and darker? Perfectly normal! Most turtles do this, and Red-ears do it a LOT.
it's shell is probably just growing so the old scales are going to flake off its color will go back to normal after don't worry i have 3 %26 they've all done it a dozen times
this is the smae concept as humans and hair color. as we age we lose our hair color and it turns more grey or lighter. with turtles they simple lose thier brilliance and turn darker or less virbrant. this is perfectly normal though.
How come my friend's turtle is sitting around all the time and doesn't eat or move around?
I visited my close friend the other day. He has a Red-eared Slider turtle (though the turtle's name is Hercules, I don't think he officially knows the gender of the turtle; I will just refer to it as a *he*). Since December last year, Hercules has hardly moved around in his tank (except for once in a while sticking his head out of the water for a breath of air) and also doesn't seem to be eating his food. This is unusual behavior for him. My friend went to the local pet store where he buys his turtle's food, and asked the woman there about his problem. She said that turtles go through a type of hibernation and this could be the cause. But this has been going on a while, and I think Hercules may be sick. My friend has been routinely changing the turtle's water and giving him new food. I don't know the age of the turtle, but my friend has had him a number of years. Also, if my friend picks him up his body feels much slimmer/bonier than it used to. Does anyone know what is wrong?
Answers:
does it have proper heat and light... does he have enough room to move... he might need a bigger tank or deeper water...
That's what turtles do.
that's what happened to my turtle until we realized it died days ago. You'll be able to tell by the festering smell.
Answers:
does it have proper heat and light... does he have enough room to move... he might need a bigger tank or deeper water...
That's what turtles do.
that's what happened to my turtle until we realized it died days ago. You'll be able to tell by the festering smell.
How can you tell the gender of a lizard?
Answers:
It depends on the species you're looking at. There are thousands of species of lizard and they are all different. In some species you can tell by the size, color pattern or other factors but in others you can't tell just by looking. If you mentioned the species it would be a lot easier to answer your question.
Not by listening to them. Even lizards with high pitched voices can be males. The lizard population also has a high percentage of transexuals. You can tell them because the males like to wear lots of lipstick.
Take it shopping at the mall then see it it acts bored or excited.
nice answers. most lizards being female and male have various things that separate them. if you take the lizard you are most interested in type it in google followed by sexing IE bearded dragon sexing. you will come up with various websites that will usually show you pictures on how to distinguish each. some have pores on the hind legs that help distinguish them as males. on beardies they have bumps etc. so comparing pictures is much easier than going through each lizard. and believe it or not there are hermaphrodite lizards that have both sex organs they are rare but they do exist.
How can you tell the difference between the 3 types of newt we have in England?
We have a pond in the garden and there are around fifteen in total.One is very pale, some are brown ( very fat at the moment ) so i guess they are females. There are a few with a continuous crest down the back and an orange stripe down the belly. None of them look warty, but some are very mottled and spotty.
Answers:
It can be difficult to tell them all apart. Typically smooth newts have smooth skin, the males have a crest and are about 10cms long.
Great cresteds have a warty skin, the males have a crest and are about 15cms long
Palmate newts are also smooth skinned but lack the cresting and orange spotty bellies of smooth newts.
From your description I would guess at smoothies.
have a look on the new for pictures, its not easy to tell without seeing one but most british wild life books will have them in, have a look in the library you might find one there.
Answers:
It can be difficult to tell them all apart. Typically smooth newts have smooth skin, the males have a crest and are about 10cms long.
Great cresteds have a warty skin, the males have a crest and are about 15cms long
Palmate newts are also smooth skinned but lack the cresting and orange spotty bellies of smooth newts.
From your description I would guess at smoothies.
have a look on the new for pictures, its not easy to tell without seeing one but most british wild life books will have them in, have a look in the library you might find one there.
How can you find the gender of a snapping turtle?
Answers:
These are not clear-cut rules, and not all work for all turtles, but using a combination of them, will usually help you determine the gender of your turtle.
* Males often have fatter, bigger tails than females.
* Males have the vent (cloaca) about 2/3 from the shell towards the tip of the tail. Females have it closer to the shell.
* Males have a flat or concave plastron (bottom shell) - so it will fit better on top of the female. Females have a flat or convex plastron - so there is more space for eggs.
* Male sliders grow long claws on their front legs.
Stick your finger in it's mouth and see if it's really a "snapping" turtle. NO, ONLY KIDDING, check Turtles online.
you can go to this site, and it has info on gender identification and other things like food and care instructions as well! here is the link and best of luck to ya!
http://www.allturtles.com/msgboard/about...
Vvery, very carefully!!! A male turtle has an indentation in the bottom of his carapace to accommodate mating. Be careful examining him, he can take off a finger or toe! And never turn a turtle upside down. His carapace serves as his spine and ribcage, internal organs are suspended within and turning him upside down can dislodge or damage his internal organs.
On a sexual mature snapper- the male has the longer tail with the vent more in the middle, while the female has the smaller tail with the vent near the base.
Plastron shape does not work with snappers.
http://www.chelydra.org has more useful info.
if the shell is dented in on the bottem its a boy. if its flat its a girl!
Male turtles will have a bump on the lower shell, it helps in breeding.
How can you buy a tadpole overline?, cause my son wants a tadpole-frog?
Answers:
Grow a frog has a website and sells them and "homes" for them. Also check out some of the different frog groups on Yahoo groups, I belong to a couple of them and have seen where some people will send you one if you pay for the shipping. I have an Albino African Clawed Frog, it's lots of fun to watch. My kids just love it. And these frogs live for a really long time, mine is about 3 years old but some people in the group have them that are 10-20 years old.
look in the wet lands there might be some
Since you didn't realize that frogs are amphibians, not reptiles, I suggest you do more research on caring for your pet. In most states, it is illegal to just go out and capture a frog/tadpole. They don't sell tadpoles online-you'd have to get a frog. I personally prefer to see the animal, check it's eyes/mouth/skin/etc to make sure it's healthy, and then get it as soon as I pay for it at a local pet store.
Check the edges of ponds they are usually loaded with them. You can get him quite a few that way. It is wonderful watching them grow into little tiny frogs. I used to bring them home in a ice cream bucket.
If you go here or any one of a number of elementary science sites you will find kits for hatching out frogs eggs. They are a great learning experience and will supply everything you need to grow healthy young frogs and teach your son about them too.
Here are a few places if you eliminate the spaces
http://www.hometrainingtools.com/catalog...
life-science-biology/animals/
cat_frogs-tadpoles.html
http://www.physlink.com/estore/...
cart/Growafrogkit.cfm
http://sciencekit.com/
grass-frog-tadpoles/
p/IG0021691/
I seen some on ebay.
I have never seen a tadpole for sale. If you really want a tadpole you'll have to go to a local river, pond, creek etc. and catch one or two.
i have one, they are so fun! i got mine at a local pet store I hope you find a tadpole
If you would want a frog that is totally aquatic like fish once it has morphed then you can go to www.growafrog.com and get a tadpole from them. If you choose this route do not buy anything else from them except for tadpole food which will be a fine powdered food. If you do this please come join my group for african clawed frogs at http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/afric...
there are many of us who have raised these tadpoles and can help you with want you will need to care for it to grow up and be a happy healthy frog. Please do not buy the tanks that grow a frog will try and talk you into buying. When african clawed frogs are full grown each frog needs 7-10 gals of water so you would be better of purchasing a 10 gal. tank right away to put the tadpole in. You will only fill the 10 gal tank half way full while it is a tadpole. Feed it the powdered food twice a day. You will need to run a air stone on low in the tank while it is a tadpole. Once it gets it's arms and legs it will start absorbing it's tail. You don't feed it during this time. Once it is a froglet you can then fill the tank up except for leaving a 2 inch space at the top as they can jump out if the tank is full. You will then need a filter on the 10 gal tank and it should be a filter for atleast a 20 gal. tank. With these frogs you need to over filter as they can poop a lot depending on what you feed them.
Like I said if you choose this type of frog please only get the tadpole and powdered tadpole food from grow a frog. They will rip you off saying their tanks are all they frog will ever need and that is not true. Please join my group if you decide to get a african clawed frog and we will help you thru the process of the tadpole morphing.
you can look up frog breaders all i no is they are not expencive probly $5.00 for about 50 of them i would by more than one they might end up dyeing
How can you best get over the fear of snakes?
The reason that I'm asking is because since my fiance became an OTR truck driver, he's been gone for weeks at a time, which leaves me to take care of our pets (including his ball python). The snake is not very big now (he's just over a year old), so it's not so bad when I have to feed him. I've gotten used to him since we got him, but I'm concerned about him getting bigger. I've heard that the males can get to be 5 feet long, and I don't know if I would be as comfortable feeding him at that size; it would be a little scarier, I think. Right now he's so little that it doesn't bother me as much...what can I do to get over this fear so that I will be able to take care of him when he's bigger? Thanks in advance for your answers.
Answers:
Hello,
It doesn't sound like you actually have a true phobic fear of snakes, just of this one getting bigger. As long as your fiance's snake has a cage or pen he/she can't get out of, your needn't be afraid if it gets bigger (after all, children get bigger, and not all of them cause us to become frightened). It may need more (quantity) to eat as it grows, but if you're pretty comfortable with it, you'll probably continue to be comfortable as it grows, which they do very slowly. You won't notice its growth until you look back and remember when you asked this question and realize it's bigger. If you're comfortable touching the snake and sure it can do you no harm at its current size, try picking it up and holding it, or just petting it while it's in its cage/pen or terrarium. If you can get comfortable touching and/or holding it, you will bond to it and gain a sense of its safety and lack of threat to you, and your own ability to control it and your reactions to it.
Many people have a true phobic reaction to snakes (one of the most common phobias). Your "fear" sounds more like worry, but with the passing of time, and growing familiarity with the critter, you should both do fine.
feel him and say i dont care about that u r cool and be gentle!!
Start holding him. He wont bite you if you cause him any harm. But dont smell like something he would eat! Then he will start liking you and u can trust him more
I've had my ball python for over a year now i think their the most gentle of snakes, but don't feel scarred about that now just relax and wait for that time to come because I'm also not sure how I'm gonna handle it and i actually like snakes. So i say play with him as much as possible and get comfortable and just let the time flow because you got like years before that happens and you may be in a different place in life then so just chill out and enjoy.
if you speend as much time as posible with the snake and dont acked scared around it or they mite get scared and bite but dont be scared becouse when they bite when there scared they grab and let go. just be jental
Answers:
Hello,
It doesn't sound like you actually have a true phobic fear of snakes, just of this one getting bigger. As long as your fiance's snake has a cage or pen he/she can't get out of, your needn't be afraid if it gets bigger (after all, children get bigger, and not all of them cause us to become frightened). It may need more (quantity) to eat as it grows, but if you're pretty comfortable with it, you'll probably continue to be comfortable as it grows, which they do very slowly. You won't notice its growth until you look back and remember when you asked this question and realize it's bigger. If you're comfortable touching the snake and sure it can do you no harm at its current size, try picking it up and holding it, or just petting it while it's in its cage/pen or terrarium. If you can get comfortable touching and/or holding it, you will bond to it and gain a sense of its safety and lack of threat to you, and your own ability to control it and your reactions to it.
Many people have a true phobic reaction to snakes (one of the most common phobias). Your "fear" sounds more like worry, but with the passing of time, and growing familiarity with the critter, you should both do fine.
feel him and say i dont care about that u r cool and be gentle!!
Start holding him. He wont bite you if you cause him any harm. But dont smell like something he would eat! Then he will start liking you and u can trust him more
I've had my ball python for over a year now i think their the most gentle of snakes, but don't feel scarred about that now just relax and wait for that time to come because I'm also not sure how I'm gonna handle it and i actually like snakes. So i say play with him as much as possible and get comfortable and just let the time flow because you got like years before that happens and you may be in a different place in life then so just chill out and enjoy.
if you speend as much time as posible with the snake and dont acked scared around it or they mite get scared and bite but dont be scared becouse when they bite when there scared they grab and let go. just be jental
How can we remove turtles from a pond & what can we do with them?
We have a natural pond that we'd like to stock with fish but it is now filled with turtles - seemingly of different types. One is at least 12 inches across! We live on a ranch in SD %26 have had a multiple year draught with rain this spring %26 never seen so many turtles! Next question is: What can I do with all the turtles? As a ranch, we raise animals for sale so of course it would be wonderful to be able to sell some of the turtles but is it legal or not? How can I find out more? THANK YOU!!! :)
Answers:
legal, get a big storage plastic box from walmart, and feed them feder gold fish, change the water or get afilter
Being that the turtles are in their natural and wild habitat, it is illegal to sell them or to capture them. If you really don't want them there find a local reptile refuge to take them to or call animal control and they can help you. Really, they are awesome animals and if it were I, I'd be thrilled to have them living wild on my property.
Get the local animal control to help. You can't sell them since they are in their wild habitat. If they are bothering you find a lake to reloacte them if not...get the animal control to do it.
don't sell them... enjoy them! lol
Answers:
legal, get a big storage plastic box from walmart, and feed them feder gold fish, change the water or get afilter
Being that the turtles are in their natural and wild habitat, it is illegal to sell them or to capture them. If you really don't want them there find a local reptile refuge to take them to or call animal control and they can help you. Really, they are awesome animals and if it were I, I'd be thrilled to have them living wild on my property.
Get the local animal control to help. You can't sell them since they are in their wild habitat. If they are bothering you find a lake to reloacte them if not...get the animal control to do it.
don't sell them... enjoy them! lol
How can we help animals like the American Alligator? What are making them endangered?
Answers:
HABITAT LOSS
A habitat is the ecosystem a species needs to live in - a swamp, rainforest, woodland, limestone bog, desert etc. HABITAT LOSS IS THE GREATEST CAUSE OF SPECIES BEING ENDANGERED. Construction of homes, buildings, roads, timber harvesting, loss of farmlands and the creation of farmlands (more likely outside of the U.S., as in the rainforest of South America) threatens many ecosystems large and small.
POLLUTION:
Pollution can take many forms. Water, air and ground pollution are all related. Toxic substances dumped in a wooded area will destroy the soil and the species that live in it (from bacteria, to insects and the birds %26 animals that eat them) but it will also get into the groundwater below it. that water may lead to the same source of water that comes out of your faucet!!
COMPETITION FROM OTHER SPECIES
Sometimes there are just too many animals living in an area that compete for the space, water and food that is found there. For example, in NJ, a large population of raccoons (which turned out to have a parasitic disease) threatened the last remaining population of woodrats in NJ.
DISEASE
By our definition, diseases occur naturally. We are not talking about diseases that animals get because of pesticides or pollution. It is a part of nature that animals get diseases. But sometimes humans introduce diseases and problems into a species.
PREDATION
Predators are species that hunt other species as their way of getting food. For example, a peregrine falcon will kill small rodents (like mice %26 voles) and even kill other birds to get food. This is natural and expected. There are no predators that cause extinctions in NJ and none that we could find in our research - unless humans had changed the predators or introduced other predator species.
UNREGULATED OR ILLEGAL KILLING
People were once predators that hunted and killed to get their food. In some parts of the world people still need to do that.
humans imposing on their habitat. we take up all the room and think they are trespassing...but in reality the animals have been there before us and are getting kicked out of their own neighborhoods and dont know where to go or do.
Does anyone really care they are becoming endangered? What use do they serve? Would anyone really miss them if there were none left?
The increase of synthetic oestrogen's in the environment doesn't help with the fertility of male gators,lots of these oestrogen's come from us humans who are trying to avoid fertility..I am sure you can work out how this happens
Actually, alligators are about to be taken off the endangered species list!!! They have made a remarkable comeback since they became an endangered species in the early 70's. We can only pray that other species will recover as quickly as the American alligator!!!
The American Alligator isn't endangered. Florida has tens of thousands of the creatures. They cull them for meat and skins. Pick something else that is truelly endangered and then research the subject on the net. Find out what can be done to help. You'll come up with something.
american alligators are actually thriving very well right now and have encountered a SIGNIFICANT come back mostly due to people recognising the issue at hand. There are at significant higher numbers now, enough in fact to allow small numbers to be hunted during a short period in fall in some southern states, and also enough to allow them back into the food and hide trade once again, not that I condone such acts as an avid reptile hobbiest, but alligators are doing very well, both in the wild and numerous "gator farms" and zoo's around the world
How can u find out how old a herman tortoise is?
Answers:
If it's wild caught then it's impossible. If it's from a person or pet store they should be able to tell you. Counting rings and lines on their shells are myths and do not work. If anyone tells you this is way, they're complete morons.
The only reliable way is to watch it be born.
If you just want to know for fun, you can count the rings on the plastron (belly). It is not anywhere near accurate, but if you count them, then divide by 3 (or 4 if they are really close together) you will be accurate enough for curiosity's sake.
If you know the size, you can try a growth chart for Hermann's, although Icould not locate one to link you to.
How can i tell my snakes exact age ?
ok i wanna know my snakes age the dealer told me it is one year old but he dont know exactly how old is him
Answers:
You might be better off going to a zoology site and asking
about that. These guys are just being jerks. I don't remember
exactly how something to do with counting the lines on their
tails or something. Thats why I say your best bet is ask
a professional snake handler at the zoo.
Cut him in half and count the rings.
Cut him open and count the rings.
Sorry - couldn't resist ;-)
you can count how many scales it has and divide it by 55
then multiply by .3
there you go
Well, do you know how old he was when you got him? If not, then I can't really help you.
I'm sooo sorry! :(
There is no way of determining "exactly how old is him" based on a visual inspection.
DNA TEST.
Answers:
You might be better off going to a zoology site and asking
about that. These guys are just being jerks. I don't remember
exactly how something to do with counting the lines on their
tails or something. Thats why I say your best bet is ask
a professional snake handler at the zoo.
Cut him in half and count the rings.
Cut him open and count the rings.
Sorry - couldn't resist ;-)
you can count how many scales it has and divide it by 55
then multiply by .3
there you go
Well, do you know how old he was when you got him? If not, then I can't really help you.
I'm sooo sorry! :(
There is no way of determining "exactly how old is him" based on a visual inspection.
DNA TEST.
How can I tell if my Bearded Dragon eggs are good?
My beardie is about 1 1/2 to 2 years old. She laid eggs last Thursday and I put them into my pre-set up incubator as soon as she was finished. This is her second time laying, the first clutch failed because I was unprepared. Most of the eggs were nice looking and uniform, but a couple had smaller eggs stuck to them which I left alone because I didn't want to damage anything. I put them in the incubator facing the same direction she laid them in. The temperature has been hovering between 82-83 degrees. By the end of the day the eggs took on a kind of yellow color, it seems like the tops are lighter like there is a bubble of air inside. They are still smooth and full and I could even see a vein of blood in one egg. Is something wrong with these eggs? Is it possible that they will hatch? I can't find anything about discolored eggs online. She has been actively breeding with a male. Help!
Answers:
If there are veins showing, that means the eggs are fertile. :)
Candling the eggs is the most accurate way to tell if they are good or not..use a small "Mag-lite" type flashlight, and put the end directly against the egg in a darkened room. You should be able to clearly see veins in eggs that are good, and bad eggs will be a solid yellowish/clearish color throughout. Bad eggs will also shrivel, and usually mold eventually. Try to remove the bad eggs if possible.
The eggs can become somewhat discolored on the outside from some hatching mediums, but usually will retain a fairly white color. If the hatching medium is too damp, they will also discolor and eventually rot. I use Perlite and/or vermiculite for hacthing, and make sure that it is damp enough to clump together when tightly squeezed in your hand, but no water will drip out when squeezed. Keep the egg container tightly covered to keep the humidity in, other than when you open it to peek in on the eggs.
Hold them up to a strong light and see if you can see inside the eggs.
Cheers
Dump the bearie and get a Pembroke Welsh Corgi. They are much more pleasant, they don't burn the drapes when they breath, and they lay much smaller eggs.
OK sounds like your doing an alright job so far. The way I tell if dragon eggs are good is... well if there sunken in of starting to sink there no good. I've seen some eggs get a little oddly coloured because of the substrate they were layed in ot incubated in. just keep a steady temp and some moisture in the incubating medium and you should have baby dragons in about 60-70 odd days
ok if you see a vein than chances are good that you have some fertile eggs. if they are still plump not shrivled and are very leathery and tight. chances are good they are fertile. the most important thing to do is to mark each egg lightly with some kind of marker on the top if you dont and you move them you may damage them if you turn them over the yolks have set and an upside done yolk will tear and kil a fertile egg. like others have said candlelighting is the best way to tell if fertile but 1 week in is still too early to tell for shure. just keep humidity up and your temp is good. you should be able to tell for shure in a week or 2.
the two answers above this one are great answers so I wont rehash what they said. great and accurate advice guys. I just wanted to add you need to be aware of fungi's it can be a big problem there are suggested remedies for it on the web. one i found successful is having a small opening in the middle of the eggs such as placing the eggs in a circle leaving about a 2 inch void in the middle. take a paper towel and cut a circle out of it so it fits easily inside the eggs without touching the eggs at all. then remove the piece of towel and place it on a piece of news paper. spray it lightly with an athletes foot spray then place it back into the middle carefully so you do not come into contact with the eggs the normal action of air will keep any fungis from getting a foot hold on your clutch. if you wait and fungis does get a foot hold it will be much harder to control. you can check for other ways on the web or to varify my way. I got this idea from a breeder and it has worked so far.
Answers:
If there are veins showing, that means the eggs are fertile. :)
Candling the eggs is the most accurate way to tell if they are good or not..use a small "Mag-lite" type flashlight, and put the end directly against the egg in a darkened room. You should be able to clearly see veins in eggs that are good, and bad eggs will be a solid yellowish/clearish color throughout. Bad eggs will also shrivel, and usually mold eventually. Try to remove the bad eggs if possible.
The eggs can become somewhat discolored on the outside from some hatching mediums, but usually will retain a fairly white color. If the hatching medium is too damp, they will also discolor and eventually rot. I use Perlite and/or vermiculite for hacthing, and make sure that it is damp enough to clump together when tightly squeezed in your hand, but no water will drip out when squeezed. Keep the egg container tightly covered to keep the humidity in, other than when you open it to peek in on the eggs.
Hold them up to a strong light and see if you can see inside the eggs.
Cheers
Dump the bearie and get a Pembroke Welsh Corgi. They are much more pleasant, they don't burn the drapes when they breath, and they lay much smaller eggs.
OK sounds like your doing an alright job so far. The way I tell if dragon eggs are good is... well if there sunken in of starting to sink there no good. I've seen some eggs get a little oddly coloured because of the substrate they were layed in ot incubated in. just keep a steady temp and some moisture in the incubating medium and you should have baby dragons in about 60-70 odd days
ok if you see a vein than chances are good that you have some fertile eggs. if they are still plump not shrivled and are very leathery and tight. chances are good they are fertile. the most important thing to do is to mark each egg lightly with some kind of marker on the top if you dont and you move them you may damage them if you turn them over the yolks have set and an upside done yolk will tear and kil a fertile egg. like others have said candlelighting is the best way to tell if fertile but 1 week in is still too early to tell for shure. just keep humidity up and your temp is good. you should be able to tell for shure in a week or 2.
the two answers above this one are great answers so I wont rehash what they said. great and accurate advice guys. I just wanted to add you need to be aware of fungi's it can be a big problem there are suggested remedies for it on the web. one i found successful is having a small opening in the middle of the eggs such as placing the eggs in a circle leaving about a 2 inch void in the middle. take a paper towel and cut a circle out of it so it fits easily inside the eggs without touching the eggs at all. then remove the piece of towel and place it on a piece of news paper. spray it lightly with an athletes foot spray then place it back into the middle carefully so you do not come into contact with the eggs the normal action of air will keep any fungis from getting a foot hold on your clutch. if you wait and fungis does get a foot hold it will be much harder to control. you can check for other ways on the web or to varify my way. I got this idea from a breeder and it has worked so far.
How can I tell if my ball python is a male or female?
Answers:
Ball Pythons are not sexually dimorphic, in other words you can't tell just by looking at them. Male Balls are usually smaller than females, but not always.
The most common and accurate methods are "Popping" and "Probing". Both methods are used to check for the male hemi-penes (the male sexual organ). In popping, pressure is applied at the tail and behind the cloaca to evert the hemipenes or scent glands of the female. This is by far the most accurate method because you can easily tell one from the other if done properly. Popping is usually done on newborn snakes, but can be done on older snakes if the person doing the procedure is experienced and depending on the snake.
Probing is a more common method, although not as accurate. With probing, a metal probe is inserted into the cloaca towards the tail and the distance the probe is inserted will usually tell the sex of the snake. Males typically probe deeper as the probe is inserted into a hemipene, and females will typically probe more shallow. The distance is measured in scales, and it depends on the species of snake. Probing is probably at least 97% accurate.
Both procedures should only be performed by an experienced person such as a vet or breeder. If done improperly, you can damage the snake which can potentially be fatal.
BYou can't tell from just looking at it. With Ball Pythons, they have to be probed in order to tell. basically a probe is an instrument that's inserted into the snake. Your vet should be able to do this for you, if not contact your local herpetology society and I'm sure one of the members has a set of probes.
If you don't know how, don't experiment, you can harm the snake
How can I stop my snake from being so Terriefied of me?
I have a Male Garter snake. And he is about A foot and a half.
Answers:
Be gentle and quiet with him. Slowly put your hand into his cage. Leave it there for awhile so he gets used to your scent and heat. Let him investigate you. Try it a lil bit at a time for a few days. Then he should get used to you. From there try handling him but only a lil bit at a time.
Your hand is bigger than him and he feels threatened. Has he been in his new environment for long? Reptile like to be left alone for the most part. Maybe he just needs some time alone. Put him in a dark room or a black cloth over his cage and let him relax and get used to the environment. After that you can start sticking your hand in there but not touching him for a while until he gets used to your hand then gradually try to grab him till he gets used to it. This should take as long as a few months so be patient. If that doesn't work then you need a new pet idea cuz snakes are not for you
Good Luck!
if you caught him wild, let him go, it's a lost cause. if you got him 2nd hand, the previous owner may have tapped the aquarium and made him mean(irascible) if you got him from a pet shop, same thing, never tap the glass. to tame him, you want to wear long sleeve flannel and cotton brown gloves, turn his heat off, just about 1/2 hour before handling, and make him depend on your body heat to warm up do not attempt this within 48 hours of feeding, as he may void his food, this is extremely harmful to a snake, think permanent acid reflux..., slow easy movements, and cradle the snake, don't hold him tight, play "ladder" with him, then he may relax,
the previous owner may have tapped the aquarium and made him mean(irascible) if you got him from a pet shop, same thing, never tap the glass. to tame him, you want to wear long sleeve flannel and cotton brown gloves, turn his heat off, just about 1/2 hour before handling, and make him depend on your body heat to warm up do not attempt this within 48 hours of feeding, as he may void his food, this is extremely harmful to a snake, think permanent acid reflux..., slow easy movements, and cradle the snake, don't hold him tight, play "ladder" with him, then he may relax,
wow i dont know where to start with this guy. tapping the glass might irritate a snake, but it wont make it mean. most snakes dont bite as a defense mechanism . they run away. some like garters, will pee on you as well. in the wild if an animal tries to eat them and they pee, theyre less tasty i guess. dont turn his heat off before handling him. just be gentle and understand garters arent like boas and pythons. they arent tame by nature. they are a small snake with many predators trying to eat them in the wild, and over thousands of years have just become scared as a characteristic of their personality. also a snake becoming mean isnt unreversible. ive seen very aggressive 12 foot burmese pythons become as tame as a kitten with proper care and regular handling. its all based on the snakes personality, and most garters dont have a tame personality.
You need to take your time. if it is a wild snake you should take it to the vet to make sure it does not have anything in case it bites you. You need to take it out and hold it for about 10 - 15 minutes a week until the snake starts getting used to you; you can increase the time once he starts being more relaxed with you.
Answers:
Be gentle and quiet with him. Slowly put your hand into his cage. Leave it there for awhile so he gets used to your scent and heat. Let him investigate you. Try it a lil bit at a time for a few days. Then he should get used to you. From there try handling him but only a lil bit at a time.
Your hand is bigger than him and he feels threatened. Has he been in his new environment for long? Reptile like to be left alone for the most part. Maybe he just needs some time alone. Put him in a dark room or a black cloth over his cage and let him relax and get used to the environment. After that you can start sticking your hand in there but not touching him for a while until he gets used to your hand then gradually try to grab him till he gets used to it. This should take as long as a few months so be patient. If that doesn't work then you need a new pet idea cuz snakes are not for you
Good Luck!
if you caught him wild, let him go, it's a lost cause. if you got him 2nd hand, the previous owner may have tapped the aquarium and made him mean(irascible) if you got him from a pet shop, same thing, never tap the glass. to tame him, you want to wear long sleeve flannel and cotton brown gloves, turn his heat off, just about 1/2 hour before handling, and make him depend on your body heat to warm up do not attempt this within 48 hours of feeding, as he may void his food, this is extremely harmful to a snake, think permanent acid reflux..., slow easy movements, and cradle the snake, don't hold him tight, play "ladder" with him, then he may relax,
the previous owner may have tapped the aquarium and made him mean(irascible) if you got him from a pet shop, same thing, never tap the glass. to tame him, you want to wear long sleeve flannel and cotton brown gloves, turn his heat off, just about 1/2 hour before handling, and make him depend on your body heat to warm up do not attempt this within 48 hours of feeding, as he may void his food, this is extremely harmful to a snake, think permanent acid reflux..., slow easy movements, and cradle the snake, don't hold him tight, play "ladder" with him, then he may relax,
wow i dont know where to start with this guy. tapping the glass might irritate a snake, but it wont make it mean. most snakes dont bite as a defense mechanism . they run away. some like garters, will pee on you as well. in the wild if an animal tries to eat them and they pee, theyre less tasty i guess. dont turn his heat off before handling him. just be gentle and understand garters arent like boas and pythons. they arent tame by nature. they are a small snake with many predators trying to eat them in the wild, and over thousands of years have just become scared as a characteristic of their personality. also a snake becoming mean isnt unreversible. ive seen very aggressive 12 foot burmese pythons become as tame as a kitten with proper care and regular handling. its all based on the snakes personality, and most garters dont have a tame personality.
You need to take your time. if it is a wild snake you should take it to the vet to make sure it does not have anything in case it bites you. You need to take it out and hold it for about 10 - 15 minutes a week until the snake starts getting used to you; you can increase the time once he starts being more relaxed with you.
How can i make my snake and the cage smell better?
idk dont know how to make it smell better except clean it every day but that takes to much time >>> its a smaller garder snake
Answers:
We have hundreds of reptiles and folks always ask us why the smell is not offensive. A few years ago, we found "Nature's Original Odor Gone - made by CleanLife Technologies. Here is the link: http://www.cleanlifetech.com/odor_gone.h...
Zoos use this stuff - it really works. Just buy the 4oz concentrate and mix your own at home. You can spray the entire cage, it won't harm the plastic, wood, etc - and best of all - it won't hurt the reptile! There is really no smell to it, so it is not masking odors.
Follow the directions - Hint: we use distilled water. Tap water diminishes the effectiveness. You will be glad you found this handy little product.
get rid of the snake...
why would you want one in your house anyway?
...gross.
You're on the mark there.
What makes it smel;l is the faeces, when snake goes potty, clean it out after an hour. No problem with the smell after that.
You should only have to clean it thoroughly about once a month...which includes changing the bedding. Besides that, you should only have to change the water daily and clean out the poo.
Snake cages don't normally smell, so you may just need to clean it thoroughly once right now...and it should get better. Make sure you rinse the cage out thoroughly so there isn't any product smell left over.
You have to change it more, we changed ours once a week sometimes twice a week.
Answers:
We have hundreds of reptiles and folks always ask us why the smell is not offensive. A few years ago, we found "Nature's Original Odor Gone - made by CleanLife Technologies. Here is the link: http://www.cleanlifetech.com/odor_gone.h...
Zoos use this stuff - it really works. Just buy the 4oz concentrate and mix your own at home. You can spray the entire cage, it won't harm the plastic, wood, etc - and best of all - it won't hurt the reptile! There is really no smell to it, so it is not masking odors.
Follow the directions - Hint: we use distilled water. Tap water diminishes the effectiveness. You will be glad you found this handy little product.
get rid of the snake...
why would you want one in your house anyway?
...gross.
You're on the mark there.
What makes it smel;l is the faeces, when snake goes potty, clean it out after an hour. No problem with the smell after that.
You should only have to clean it thoroughly about once a month...which includes changing the bedding. Besides that, you should only have to change the water daily and clean out the poo.
Snake cages don't normally smell, so you may just need to clean it thoroughly once right now...and it should get better. Make sure you rinse the cage out thoroughly so there isn't any product smell left over.
You have to change it more, we changed ours once a week sometimes twice a week.
How can I keep my iguana's cage from getting so stinky?
His cage is wood and plexiglass, with an outdoor grass carpet for the bottom. We remove the poop each day, and clean any liquid stuff off the glass. He usually just poops on this one rock, so that's easy to clean.
We take the outdoor grass carpet out once a week and spray it down, but it still seems to have a bit of an odor. Can we use a light bleach/water solution or will it hurt him?
Any ideas? He's generally a clean, awesome pet, and loves his bath! Outside of his cage, he hardly ever smells.
Answers:
DON'T USE BLEACH! Hogwash, I just had to jump on the bandwagon there.
I am going to assume you are going to remove the ig when you clean the enclosure, so a bleach /water mixture is ideal.
Take the outdoor carpet outside and spray it down with a bleach/water solution. Rinse it several times and let it dry then rinse it again, rinse well and let it dry completely. I even toss mine in the dryer sometimes, without a fabric sheet.
As far as the actual enclosure, I DO clean all my enclosures with a bleach/water mixture. I simply remove the animal, take everything out of the enclosure, my 12 year old son takes hides, climbing things, etc... To the bathroom and sprays them down with bleach then rinse them in the tub using the hand-held showerhead (I know he rinses well, water is everywhere.) So, while he is doing that I spray the enclosure down with a bleach/water mixture, wipe everything down with paper towels, and then use a spray bottle filled with plain old water to spray the enclosure down. I wipe it all out until it is dry then I re-spray with plain old water again and wipe everything down. I use fresh new paper towels and then stick my head in the enclosure and take a deep breath to see if I smell bleach, always, out of sheer habit from back when I was a greenhorn and was worried about not getting the bleach off.
I do NOT spray down any wood, wood will soak up the bleach and you won't be able to get it all out by rinsing. I have gotten out of any wood at all showing in any of my many, many enclosures by covering any wood with a rubber/plastic coating. It's the same thing you use for shower walls, good stiff plastic and easy to wash down.
I have dozens of enclosures, from basic 10 gallon store bought to 6x6x4 homebuilt enclosures to 8x6x5 homebuilt that house everything from bearded dragons, leopard gecko, snakes of all sorts, iguana, tarantula, scorpions, etc... And nothing has ever had any problems. Just remember, rinse, rinse, rinse.
I use a spray bottle with mostly water and a small amount of bleach. I normally use about a 1/10 solution of bleach to water. I also use a red spray bottle and a blue spray bottle, and mark all over the red one bleach. Because we do spray down the veiled chameleon and some of the other reptiles and I do not want to use the bleach/water mixture so I mark the heck out of the bleach bottle and keep it in a completely different room from the reptiles.
-Good luck.
Hello %26 NO BLEACH ...yikes..you can try white vinegar..or some vanilla in water in a misting bottle .. not much else can be done %26 it's just how things are..am guessin you do have the wood painted with latex paint or a latex varnish, otherwise the smell is in the wood %26 nothing you can do then .. Take Care :)
instead of the grass stuff use corn cobb bedding. its a little messy but it keeps the oder down. you should be able to find it in most pet stores or maybe at wal*mart. my iguana loves the stuff.
Dont use bleach!!! Try just using hot, clean water, or a steam machine to kill bateria perhaps. Chemicals might kill it.
Try first cleaning with hydrogen peroxide and then after that with vinegar. I do that with my chameleon enclosure once a week. I notice that if I don't remove the white urine stuff everyday, it will start to smell. I think the bleach will get rid of the odor, but it might harm him if the smell is still lingering. They can absorb the odors through their skin.
if the other ideas don't work... pet stores sell pet safe cleaners for disinfecting cages.. try that.
We take the outdoor grass carpet out once a week and spray it down, but it still seems to have a bit of an odor. Can we use a light bleach/water solution or will it hurt him?
Any ideas? He's generally a clean, awesome pet, and loves his bath! Outside of his cage, he hardly ever smells.
Answers:
DON'T USE BLEACH! Hogwash, I just had to jump on the bandwagon there.
I am going to assume you are going to remove the ig when you clean the enclosure, so a bleach /water mixture is ideal.
Take the outdoor carpet outside and spray it down with a bleach/water solution. Rinse it several times and let it dry then rinse it again, rinse well and let it dry completely. I even toss mine in the dryer sometimes, without a fabric sheet.
As far as the actual enclosure, I DO clean all my enclosures with a bleach/water mixture. I simply remove the animal, take everything out of the enclosure, my 12 year old son takes hides, climbing things, etc... To the bathroom and sprays them down with bleach then rinse them in the tub using the hand-held showerhead (I know he rinses well, water is everywhere.) So, while he is doing that I spray the enclosure down with a bleach/water mixture, wipe everything down with paper towels, and then use a spray bottle filled with plain old water to spray the enclosure down. I wipe it all out until it is dry then I re-spray with plain old water again and wipe everything down. I use fresh new paper towels and then stick my head in the enclosure and take a deep breath to see if I smell bleach, always, out of sheer habit from back when I was a greenhorn and was worried about not getting the bleach off.
I do NOT spray down any wood, wood will soak up the bleach and you won't be able to get it all out by rinsing. I have gotten out of any wood at all showing in any of my many, many enclosures by covering any wood with a rubber/plastic coating. It's the same thing you use for shower walls, good stiff plastic and easy to wash down.
I have dozens of enclosures, from basic 10 gallon store bought to 6x6x4 homebuilt enclosures to 8x6x5 homebuilt that house everything from bearded dragons, leopard gecko, snakes of all sorts, iguana, tarantula, scorpions, etc... And nothing has ever had any problems. Just remember, rinse, rinse, rinse.
I use a spray bottle with mostly water and a small amount of bleach. I normally use about a 1/10 solution of bleach to water. I also use a red spray bottle and a blue spray bottle, and mark all over the red one bleach. Because we do spray down the veiled chameleon and some of the other reptiles and I do not want to use the bleach/water mixture so I mark the heck out of the bleach bottle and keep it in a completely different room from the reptiles.
-Good luck.
Hello %26 NO BLEACH ...yikes..you can try white vinegar..or some vanilla in water in a misting bottle .. not much else can be done %26 it's just how things are..am guessin you do have the wood painted with latex paint or a latex varnish, otherwise the smell is in the wood %26 nothing you can do then .. Take Care :)
instead of the grass stuff use corn cobb bedding. its a little messy but it keeps the oder down. you should be able to find it in most pet stores or maybe at wal*mart. my iguana loves the stuff.
Dont use bleach!!! Try just using hot, clean water, or a steam machine to kill bateria perhaps. Chemicals might kill it.
Try first cleaning with hydrogen peroxide and then after that with vinegar. I do that with my chameleon enclosure once a week. I notice that if I don't remove the white urine stuff everyday, it will start to smell. I think the bleach will get rid of the odor, but it might harm him if the smell is still lingering. They can absorb the odors through their skin.
if the other ideas don't work... pet stores sell pet safe cleaners for disinfecting cages.. try that.
How can i keep crawfish from makeing holes in my yard?
We live close to the beach and some bayous plus our back yard holds water...Any advice on what to do...I hate the ugly things...
Answers:
I have been looking for the same answer. I live in south Louisiana and understand your pain. And to your other, helpful answers of 'move'...Ha Ha. How about, I have owned the same home for 17 years, and just began having problems with the crawfish last year. In my research, the only things I found were;
1. try to keep the area as dry as possible-which is difficult where I live and near the beach and bayou;
2. If you can determine a certain path/entry point, into the yard, to put down that black plastic edging, that is used around trees-the crawfish are supposed to head the other direction, because they won't dig underneath (not sure about that, I have some holes that are 18-24 inches deep??);
3. I believe the only thing that I read would get rid of them- other than a crawfish boil- was 'Orthene-WP'- I am fairly certain that was the only one named. I have not tried it, yet. I have been looking for some other alternative, but it is not out of the question.
These boogers have my middle yard, soo messed up, I can't cut it with the lawn mower, anymore. I have to use the weedeater. They have also, put enough holes around the walkway, up front, that I had to redo it, today, becasue there was enough dirt missing, that part of the walk was now uneven. I filled the remaining holes, with sand. Don't know if that will help dry the holes or deter the critters, but it will, at least, reduce the low spots caused by the settling.
Please let me know, if you find anything, that was able to help.
First, with all due respect, my advice is either learn to accept them or move.
We humans have a tendency to move places we probably shouldn't, then complain about what's been there long before we tried to live there.
It's like moving under the flight path of the airport, then complaining about the noise.
The crawfish are harmless to you. They are just trying to survive in a world where we humans keep consuming more and more animal habitat.
Now, having gotten that off my chest, let me make a suggestion that you try to hide the crawdaddy mounds instead of destroying them. They probably don't come all the way up to the house, since you would have trouble with moisture intrusion if your slab was wet. If you can observe about how far they come up towards the house, you can landscape with some plants like Louisiana Iris and Spirea to screen out the view of their homes so that you can both stay.
You can't and please respect the nature of living things!
move
Answers:
I have been looking for the same answer. I live in south Louisiana and understand your pain. And to your other, helpful answers of 'move'...Ha Ha. How about, I have owned the same home for 17 years, and just began having problems with the crawfish last year. In my research, the only things I found were;
1. try to keep the area as dry as possible-which is difficult where I live and near the beach and bayou;
2. If you can determine a certain path/entry point, into the yard, to put down that black plastic edging, that is used around trees-the crawfish are supposed to head the other direction, because they won't dig underneath (not sure about that, I have some holes that are 18-24 inches deep??);
3. I believe the only thing that I read would get rid of them- other than a crawfish boil- was 'Orthene-WP'- I am fairly certain that was the only one named. I have not tried it, yet. I have been looking for some other alternative, but it is not out of the question.
These boogers have my middle yard, soo messed up, I can't cut it with the lawn mower, anymore. I have to use the weedeater. They have also, put enough holes around the walkway, up front, that I had to redo it, today, becasue there was enough dirt missing, that part of the walk was now uneven. I filled the remaining holes, with sand. Don't know if that will help dry the holes or deter the critters, but it will, at least, reduce the low spots caused by the settling.
Please let me know, if you find anything, that was able to help.
First, with all due respect, my advice is either learn to accept them or move.
We humans have a tendency to move places we probably shouldn't, then complain about what's been there long before we tried to live there.
It's like moving under the flight path of the airport, then complaining about the noise.
The crawfish are harmless to you. They are just trying to survive in a world where we humans keep consuming more and more animal habitat.
Now, having gotten that off my chest, let me make a suggestion that you try to hide the crawdaddy mounds instead of destroying them. They probably don't come all the way up to the house, since you would have trouble with moisture intrusion if your slab was wet. If you can observe about how far they come up towards the house, you can landscape with some plants like Louisiana Iris and Spirea to screen out the view of their homes so that you can both stay.
You can't and please respect the nature of living things!
move
How can I keep a large amount of crickets alive for more than a few weeks?
Ok, so buying crickets in bulk is cheap, like you get 1000 for less than $20. The trouble is, my lizard only eats like 10 a day. So I would need to keep them alive for longer than a few days.
Whenever I buy more than 30 from the petstore, I always get at least 10 that die within a week.
So how can I keep them alive longer?
Answers:
Keeping crickets
1. large deep tupperware or deep rubbermaid container
2. Put lots of air holes in the lid, or cut out a large portion of the lid and use a hot glue gun to glue some fine window screening material to the inside of the lid around the hole.
3. Fill the bottom of the container with a substrate of rolled oats or bran- couple of inches deep. The crickets will eat this.
4. Put one or two small shallow dishes in the bottom of the container - I use the tiny tinfoil pie plates. Fill these dishes with a half potato, a chunk of carrot and if you like a 1/4 to a 1/2 of an orange. Other veggies can be used- they will eat these and get their moisture from them so you may want to also sprinkle the veggies and fruit with calcium and vitamin supplements so that the crickets will be a wonderful healthy meal for your dragon. :)
5. Get several pieces of old egg crate or even old toilet and paper towel rolls, put them in the container- these will be places for the crickets to hide. Its a must if you want the crickets to not fight and eat each other. Also the egg crate etc. can be lifted out of the container when the crickets are in the container and you can just use a piece of the egg crate to shake some crickets either directly into the dragons enclosure, or into a plastic bag to coat them with vitamins and calcium.
6. Now add your crickets to the container- they should be able to stay alive for quite a while when kept this way with proper ventilation.
7. Change the veggies every couple of days- they will go bad and mould- mould and dampness will kill the crickets.
Breeding Crickets
1. You can add a dish of moist soil to the container above- but you must keep the container of soil moist. The crickets will make a mess of this too and soon you will have soil in the oat or bran substrate- creating a breeding ground for moulds etc..
2. You can remove 6 to 10 crickets from the container and put them in another one that has soil that has been dampened in it. The crickets will mate and the females will lay up to 500 eggs each in the damp soil. After a week or so remove the adult crickets from this container (oh you should have been feeding them some veggies or fruit while they were in there too).
3. After the eggs have been laid keep the soil moist.
4. I think it takes about two weeks before you will start to see tiny little crickets emerge from the soil.
5. Make sure to provide food for the young crickets, and you can put some egg crate or toilet paper rolls in the container too for hiding places.
6. About three weeks after the small cricket first emerge they will be about half the size of adult crickets. You may remove them to another container at this time and start the breeding process with some adult crickets again if you like. Anyway- breeding crickets is easy- moist soil is the key. :)
look at how the petstore keeps them alive. usually some egg crate, some water, a little green salad every day, in an aquarium with a light to keep them warm, and screen to keep them in.
Couldnt have answerd better then Carl S
the average cricket lifespan is 2-12 months, depending on the species. the average house cricket only lives about 2.5 months, and by the time you get it from a petshop its already at least a month old.
however, you can help them live longer lives by looking after them better. You can also breed them yourself.
heres a website to help -
http://www.triciaswaterdragon.com/cricke...
.
Crickets eat a huge vareity of food such as apples, oranges, bananas, grapes, pears, melon etc. as well as lettuce and cucumber. However i find that they especially like prepacked salad which i get from my local tesco which is a mixture of Frisee, Radicchio and lambs lettuce. It isnt the cheapest, 拢1.29/200g but they love it. I also get alot of apples and mini-gem lettuce too.
Another food they like is premixed food specially for crickets, commonly known as "gut-load" Many people only feed the crickets they intend to feed to their pet (lizard,amphibian,snake or whatever) with gut-load 2 days before however the way i think is that if i want my crickets to breed, i need them to be healthy so i always have a fresh tub of it in the tank.
P.S I just copied this off this website:http://www.crickets.20m.com/feeding.html...
Wooden cage/ screened top is best, then add some paper egg cartons %26/or shredded newspaper along with apple slices or oranges, wet bread things like that... no water dishes ( they fall in %26 drown - their moisture comes from the food ) %26 a clip on lamp with a regular incandescent 60 watt light bulb for warmth, you will have some die no matter what, they don't live long any way, but they will breed %26 fair warning... they get mighty stinky if you don't change the cartons %26 paper about once a week.. especially if you keep them in your house..TC %26 Peace :)
Whenever I buy more than 30 from the petstore, I always get at least 10 that die within a week.
So how can I keep them alive longer?
Answers:
Keeping crickets
1. large deep tupperware or deep rubbermaid container
2. Put lots of air holes in the lid, or cut out a large portion of the lid and use a hot glue gun to glue some fine window screening material to the inside of the lid around the hole.
3. Fill the bottom of the container with a substrate of rolled oats or bran- couple of inches deep. The crickets will eat this.
4. Put one or two small shallow dishes in the bottom of the container - I use the tiny tinfoil pie plates. Fill these dishes with a half potato, a chunk of carrot and if you like a 1/4 to a 1/2 of an orange. Other veggies can be used- they will eat these and get their moisture from them so you may want to also sprinkle the veggies and fruit with calcium and vitamin supplements so that the crickets will be a wonderful healthy meal for your dragon. :)
5. Get several pieces of old egg crate or even old toilet and paper towel rolls, put them in the container- these will be places for the crickets to hide. Its a must if you want the crickets to not fight and eat each other. Also the egg crate etc. can be lifted out of the container when the crickets are in the container and you can just use a piece of the egg crate to shake some crickets either directly into the dragons enclosure, or into a plastic bag to coat them with vitamins and calcium.
6. Now add your crickets to the container- they should be able to stay alive for quite a while when kept this way with proper ventilation.
7. Change the veggies every couple of days- they will go bad and mould- mould and dampness will kill the crickets.
Breeding Crickets
1. You can add a dish of moist soil to the container above- but you must keep the container of soil moist. The crickets will make a mess of this too and soon you will have soil in the oat or bran substrate- creating a breeding ground for moulds etc..
2. You can remove 6 to 10 crickets from the container and put them in another one that has soil that has been dampened in it. The crickets will mate and the females will lay up to 500 eggs each in the damp soil. After a week or so remove the adult crickets from this container (oh you should have been feeding them some veggies or fruit while they were in there too).
3. After the eggs have been laid keep the soil moist.
4. I think it takes about two weeks before you will start to see tiny little crickets emerge from the soil.
5. Make sure to provide food for the young crickets, and you can put some egg crate or toilet paper rolls in the container too for hiding places.
6. About three weeks after the small cricket first emerge they will be about half the size of adult crickets. You may remove them to another container at this time and start the breeding process with some adult crickets again if you like. Anyway- breeding crickets is easy- moist soil is the key. :)
look at how the petstore keeps them alive. usually some egg crate, some water, a little green salad every day, in an aquarium with a light to keep them warm, and screen to keep them in.
Couldnt have answerd better then Carl S
the average cricket lifespan is 2-12 months, depending on the species. the average house cricket only lives about 2.5 months, and by the time you get it from a petshop its already at least a month old.
however, you can help them live longer lives by looking after them better. You can also breed them yourself.
heres a website to help -
http://www.triciaswaterdragon.com/cricke...
.
Crickets eat a huge vareity of food such as apples, oranges, bananas, grapes, pears, melon etc. as well as lettuce and cucumber. However i find that they especially like prepacked salad which i get from my local tesco which is a mixture of Frisee, Radicchio and lambs lettuce. It isnt the cheapest, 拢1.29/200g but they love it. I also get alot of apples and mini-gem lettuce too.
Another food they like is premixed food specially for crickets, commonly known as "gut-load" Many people only feed the crickets they intend to feed to their pet (lizard,amphibian,snake or whatever) with gut-load 2 days before however the way i think is that if i want my crickets to breed, i need them to be healthy so i always have a fresh tub of it in the tank.
P.S I just copied this off this website:http://www.crickets.20m.com/feeding.html...
Wooden cage/ screened top is best, then add some paper egg cartons %26/or shredded newspaper along with apple slices or oranges, wet bread things like that... no water dishes ( they fall in %26 drown - their moisture comes from the food ) %26 a clip on lamp with a regular incandescent 60 watt light bulb for warmth, you will have some die no matter what, they don't live long any way, but they will breed %26 fair warning... they get mighty stinky if you don't change the cartons %26 paper about once a week.. especially if you keep them in your house..TC %26 Peace :)
How can i get my turtles nails cut?
do the little rocks in the water trim them!!
Answers:
Rocks can trim them but it really isn't a big deal. If you take your turtle out of it's home this frequently, it's really unhealthy because this puts tons of stress on them.
If you want to get fancy, they sell reptile nail clippers for like $10 at Petco. There really isn't a need for this though.
Nope...you have to see the vet. Also make sure their beak isn't too long, that may have to shaved as well.
I don't think your supposed to trim them! God made them long for the needs of the Turtle!
Answers:
Rocks can trim them but it really isn't a big deal. If you take your turtle out of it's home this frequently, it's really unhealthy because this puts tons of stress on them.
If you want to get fancy, they sell reptile nail clippers for like $10 at Petco. There really isn't a need for this though.
Nope...you have to see the vet. Also make sure their beak isn't too long, that may have to shaved as well.
I don't think your supposed to trim them! God made them long for the needs of the Turtle!
How can i get my red eared slider turtle to eat anything other than pellets?
So I have had my RES turtle for about 6 months now and he has finally came along to actually communicating me happily. When I eat in my room he will start going crazy from the smell, so I will take his tube of pellets and shake them for him in front of him (which i have done every time feeding him) and he will go crazy. I have tried putting a worm and a tiny leaf of spinach along with his pellets, but he wont touch anything besides his pellets, he has only attempted to touch the spinach but he will decide not to eat once playing with it for a while. The worm does not get touched, i guess because it wont float and wont pay attention to it. I have never been able to get him to eat live food.
Answers:
first things first. stop the spinach. it prohibits the absorbtion of calcium thus not good for the turtle. also don't use iceberg lettuce. but red leaf lettuces like the butter and romaine varieties are good.
with the veggies roll the leaf like a cigar. take a knife and slice it down long ways while holding it on the out side then slice it width wise into 1/2-1inches lengths. take the shedded leaf and put that in the tank and see if it will take to smaller bites. do this everyother day for several weeks until it understands it is food. if one type doesn' work try another.
as for worms, use earthworms perferable longer ones and hold it with your fingers hlaf in the water and the part you hold out of the water. gently move it around the tank making sure it sees it. it should at least be interested and take a look. if not take a bite at the worm that is probably squirming around.
also put about 5 feeder gubpies or golldfish in the take to help introduce new food. try rosies or comets goldfish as they are cheap and easliey replaceable.
also crickets, grasshoppers, bloodworms, de-winged flies, small newts, and tadpoles, etc also work.
hope this helps
PS it's odd though, i have the oppisite problem, i can't get my painted to eat pellets...
did u tery to hold the worm half in the water n half out like its floating for him to try it and oncehe likes it u should be able to let go n he will look forthe rest of it just getting him to try something new isw the hard part
Try getting some bloodworms from your local pet or fish store. They come in little frozen cubes that you can punch out and drop right into the water. My RES loved them, as well as small goldfish.
what I did with my turtle is I would get a piece of whatever you want to feed it and try to make it try it then it would probably like it
Don't give it pelets at the same time. Start to introduce the new food as a snack during the day. Feed it a little less pelets and then you should be ok. You may try putting some small guppies in the tank too that it can eat. Those become food within minutes with my res, even when starting it only took a day of being in the tank before they were like 'food, yummy'. Greens are a little more tricky to try and get them to start eating but little by little they will. You can also try to hold the worms right on the water's surface and see if it goes for it. This is the only way mine will eat worms or crickets.
I had the opposite problem with my red eared sliders; they loved chasing after crickets, but would only eat pellets if I moved the pellets around with a straw so they looked 'alive'. I'm not sure what you want your turtle to eat, but crickets and wax worms were major hits with my guys. Good luck!!
Answers:
first things first. stop the spinach. it prohibits the absorbtion of calcium thus not good for the turtle. also don't use iceberg lettuce. but red leaf lettuces like the butter and romaine varieties are good.
with the veggies roll the leaf like a cigar. take a knife and slice it down long ways while holding it on the out side then slice it width wise into 1/2-1inches lengths. take the shedded leaf and put that in the tank and see if it will take to smaller bites. do this everyother day for several weeks until it understands it is food. if one type doesn' work try another.
as for worms, use earthworms perferable longer ones and hold it with your fingers hlaf in the water and the part you hold out of the water. gently move it around the tank making sure it sees it. it should at least be interested and take a look. if not take a bite at the worm that is probably squirming around.
also put about 5 feeder gubpies or golldfish in the take to help introduce new food. try rosies or comets goldfish as they are cheap and easliey replaceable.
also crickets, grasshoppers, bloodworms, de-winged flies, small newts, and tadpoles, etc also work.
hope this helps
PS it's odd though, i have the oppisite problem, i can't get my painted to eat pellets...
did u tery to hold the worm half in the water n half out like its floating for him to try it and oncehe likes it u should be able to let go n he will look forthe rest of it just getting him to try something new isw the hard part
Try getting some bloodworms from your local pet or fish store. They come in little frozen cubes that you can punch out and drop right into the water. My RES loved them, as well as small goldfish.
what I did with my turtle is I would get a piece of whatever you want to feed it and try to make it try it then it would probably like it
Don't give it pelets at the same time. Start to introduce the new food as a snack during the day. Feed it a little less pelets and then you should be ok. You may try putting some small guppies in the tank too that it can eat. Those become food within minutes with my res, even when starting it only took a day of being in the tank before they were like 'food, yummy'. Greens are a little more tricky to try and get them to start eating but little by little they will. You can also try to hold the worms right on the water's surface and see if it goes for it. This is the only way mine will eat worms or crickets.
I had the opposite problem with my red eared sliders; they loved chasing after crickets, but would only eat pellets if I moved the pellets around with a straw so they looked 'alive'. I'm not sure what you want your turtle to eat, but crickets and wax worms were major hits with my guys. Good luck!!
How can i get lizards out of my house i see them almost everyday what should i do?
Answers:
They aren't going to hurt you, and they are there because a food source-insects of some kind-are there. Lizards are great at controlling insect pests like mosquitoes and cochroaches, and a whole lot safer than using insecticides. If you don't want them coming inside, then you have to find out HOW they're getting in, and block that entry.
Consider a cat.
get a cat or move
unless your like deathly afrade of them i would just leave them alone they keep the spiders and other bad bugs out and are actuly quite fun to watch
get a cat or dog
Hello..wish I had her problem..I'd WELCOME the lizards ..LOL am not much on people tho LOL ...great natural bug control..very unlikely you can get rid of them all or plug every hole for small lizards, nor would any cat get them all..which is a bad idea to recommend, might leave you a big mess to clean up %26 a tore up house from a cat chasing around a lizard tho ...and don't even think about poisions - unless you want the cat poisioned too if it ever did catch %26 eat one !! Take Care :)
you should figure out how they are getting in in the first place... if you have open windows or hole somewhere in your home, you are going to get critters coming in. dont leave your windows open without screens. make sure you dont have any holes in your screens or windows.. if you block their entrance you wont have a problem.
if your scared of them, then you should probably get a cat or bug repellant (cockroach things work too), but little lizards are nice especally geckos, they eat bugs and stuff. but if you have big lizards (iguanas, anole..etc) , then you should either get a tough dog or a cat. the bigger lizards will hurt you when provoked ex- when you go into the kitchen at night to get a snack they may attack you for entering their domain. the little lizards will just regard you as their housekeeper
why do you want the get lizards out of your house they help u but the way to get lizards out of your house leave your door opened and but some meal worm out side of the house or set mouse traps or have someone come in and look at that
Get a snake, or cat, or get the neighbors kids to catch them, maybe an exterminator, or learn to like them, they are cute :) Good luck with your lizards. jeff p
Well i have no answer???
How Can I get a Red Eared Slider In A State that doesnt allow sale of them?
I want a Red Eared Slider but my state doesnt allow them to be sold so no pet shops have them, how can I get one?
Answers:
Most of the time the state doesnt allow SALE of the turtle but you can still find someone that has them and has babies and get one from them. Also most internet stores will still ship you one, even though that isnt entirely legal because you would be importing it into your state. Best to find someone that has one!
Newspaper classifieds. As stated before me try to find somebody who has one, or internet. It most likely not illegal to own just to sell so online might be your best bet. If they sell from another state then its not selling in your state. You buy from your state I don't think is illegal. Check into it. Hope you can get one they're awesome pets. Good Luck
This might not be a concern of yours..but just so you know , if they don't allow pet stores to sell them then in some states it also means that they are illegal to keep as pets.
Answers:
Most of the time the state doesnt allow SALE of the turtle but you can still find someone that has them and has babies and get one from them. Also most internet stores will still ship you one, even though that isnt entirely legal because you would be importing it into your state. Best to find someone that has one!
Newspaper classifieds. As stated before me try to find somebody who has one, or internet. It most likely not illegal to own just to sell so online might be your best bet. If they sell from another state then its not selling in your state. You buy from your state I don't think is illegal. Check into it. Hope you can get one they're awesome pets. Good Luck
This might not be a concern of yours..but just so you know , if they don't allow pet stores to sell them then in some states it also means that they are illegal to keep as pets.
Friday, July 31, 2009
How can i differentiate between turtles and tortoises?
How can i differentiate between turtles and tortoises? They look very alike.
What i know is that, if i'm not mistaken, turtles have webbed feets with claws whereas tortoise have elephant-like feets.
CAn u all tell me more about them??? XD
Answers:
Technically a tortoise is a type of turtle. There are three major types of turtles
Terrapins are aquatic and some live in fresh and a few live in salt or brackish water, and they will come on land to bask, these are species like red eard sliders, yellowbelloied turtles etc.
Tortoises live on land and rarly if ever come in water.
The other catagory is sea turtles, which of course live ion the sea.
Typically tortioses have high domed shells and webless rear feet. and terrapins have flater more arodynamic shells.
Turtles are Aquatic living mostly in the water. Tortoises are land animals and may go to the water to soak but will not swim.
You were right when you said tortoises have elephant like feet and that is for travel over land and for digging. Tortoises are mainly vegetarians where turtles will eat fish and aquatic vegetations along with crayfish and depending on the size and species of turtle, ducks and other water fowl are on the menu.
What i know is that, if i'm not mistaken, turtles have webbed feets with claws whereas tortoise have elephant-like feets.
CAn u all tell me more about them??? XD
Answers:
Technically a tortoise is a type of turtle. There are three major types of turtles
Terrapins are aquatic and some live in fresh and a few live in salt or brackish water, and they will come on land to bask, these are species like red eard sliders, yellowbelloied turtles etc.
Tortoises live on land and rarly if ever come in water.
The other catagory is sea turtles, which of course live ion the sea.
Typically tortioses have high domed shells and webless rear feet. and terrapins have flater more arodynamic shells.
Turtles are Aquatic living mostly in the water. Tortoises are land animals and may go to the water to soak but will not swim.
You were right when you said tortoises have elephant like feet and that is for travel over land and for digging. Tortoises are mainly vegetarians where turtles will eat fish and aquatic vegetations along with crayfish and depending on the size and species of turtle, ducks and other water fowl are on the menu.
How can i convince my mom for a leopard gecko?
I am the manager of store at skool, i get good grades, im responsible. my mom thinks they are creepy, ive shown her pics and told her about them, she wont listen, my b-day is cummin up, should i drop it and bring it up then? should i ask her if i do well on the EQAO (grade 6 testing) if she can get me one? all ideas help. also let me know if u breed them, where are and ur prices. thnx!
Answers:
Well, they are generally $30-50 at places like petsmart. Also, they cost quite a bit to set up. I am presuming you have done your homework on them, and I will tell you how I got my mom to let me have a common toad in the house. ;)
Truthfully, I brought her in the house, showed my mom how cute she was when I pet her, and that sealed the deal. Of course, my mom adors all animals and doesn't find reptiles/amphibians creepy.
Your best chance is to bring her to a store and show her how much like a cat they are. I was watching a pair of albino adults and they reminded me of a panther. It was really funny to watch them chase the crickets. You shouldn't push it too much, since that usually never works. Show her a baby, and how adorable they are with their huge heads and tiny bodies :) Also, bring her over to the computer and show her a site about them or do a report on them. You really hit it on the head when you said "If I do good on testing can I get one" because thats the best way to go. Usually parents cant say no to that since they know you are working hard.
Show her you've done research, save money for the tank, UV lights, crickets, etc. Make sure that, other than the cost of the pet, your mom will not have to pay for anything else or even know its there. The best way to do that is to get a timer for the light, so she wont have to go in there when you are gone for parties, work, or other things.
So good luck, hope you get a gecko! You sound really responsible, so good luck in all that you do!
*I would tell her the cons of ALL other possable pets and so the geko is is the best option. (ex. Dogs and Cats - have to pick up poop; Bird - have to clean cage every day; All Mamals have to be spayed or neutered and vet visits, buy food every month. ect.)
*also you might want to try to show her how escape-proof the cage would be. we have a snake and you can get cages that lock and everything.
*and you might want to have her hold one of the lizards and she could realize they arent slimy or creepy.
I personally like them, we had a wild one crawl in our garage and it ate all the crickets in there.
Hope that helps! o_O
well really they are expensive b/c of all the heating lights, the sand/rocks, the tank, the lizard its self, food, and all the other accessories it needs... but on the other hand they are really cool, and easy to take care of!
so to get your mom to let you have one you need to tell her that you will help with the cost , ask if you can help around the house to earn money for some of it. and go for the its easy to take care of thing
show her some websites that give info on them
show her stuff like this:http://www.antiquark.com/blogimg/leopard...
Distribution:
The Leopard Gecko is an insectivorous lizard coming from Pakistan, Iran, and Afghanistan. They were imported into North America until the 1970s, when importation became illegal. They live in the desert and are nocturnal.
Description:
Leopard Geckos can have a lot of spots, or no spots at all, depending on what variation you have purchased. However, regardless of their color, they all require the same care. They get to be around eight inches long and five to eight ounces. The average life span of these lizards is five to seven years, but with good care they can live to be around 20 years old.
There are many color variations in the Leopard Gecko, the normal pattern (shown), albinos, blizzards, carrot tails, and tangerines are a few of the more popular varieties.
There is little visible difference between the sexes. The easiest way to tell them apart is to look at the hemipenes; the bulges at the base of the tail. The female will have one long bulge, but the male鈥檚 will be divided into two. Extremely young leopard geckos do not yet have their spots, but will gain them upon maturity.
Care and Feeding:
Leopard Geckos eat crickets and mealworms. You can offer an occasional wax worm too, but you should limit these as they have a high fat content (20%). It is highly recommended that you 鈥榞ut load鈥?your crickets with any of the commercially available gut loads. These vitamin-rich foods fill the crickets with the vitamins and minerals, so that when your lizard eats them, the lizard gets all of the good stuff too. The meal worms should be provided in a dish with some sort of calcium to get the calcium in their diet.
As a nocturnal species, Leopard Geckos often have a vitamin deficiency in the area of vitamin D3. To compensate, you could either add a fluorescent bulb with UV to your set up, or you could use a calcium powder with the vitamin already included. The lizard must have vitamin D3, or it cannot make use of the calcium.
Provide a water bowl, preferably with dechlorinated (distilled) water. If you choose to use a dechlorinator, Repti Safe is a good one to use as it also provides electrolytes.
For cleaning, you can use any reptile-approved cleaner, such as Jurassi Clean. Leopard Geckos, true to their easy-to-care-for attitude, will generally only defecate in one area of the cage. You may also wish to get a sand scoop as it is easiest just to sift this out whenever they relieve themselves. Also, Leopard Geckos will enjoy misting every once in a while, again, with dechlorinated water if possible.
Environment:
A single Leopard Gecko can make its home in a ten gallon fish aquarium with a screen top, while two or more can fit in a twenty gallon long/breeder. Do not use an acrylic tank of any sort for lizards as the heat lamps will often melt the acrylic. Be cautious with substrates such as calci-sands. If the sand is the only source (or the nearest) of calcium, the reptile could consume large amounts and the sand can impact the intestinal tract. This can create a blockage and ultimately killing the lizard. Carpet, paper towels, or a walnut-shell bedding (Nature Zone Litter) are preferable, as the walnut-shell does not swell with the liquid.
The Leopard Gecko should have, ultimately, one hide per gecko. They will sleep in these during the day. They will also enjoy something to climb on, such as a piece of grapevine, available at many pet stores.
These lizards should never be kept outside. The risk of mites is great when kept outdoors, as well as unpredictable temperatures and weather conditions. See the terrarium set-ups described under Basic Reptile and Amphibian Care for more information on housing.
Temperature and Lighting requirements:
Leopard Geckos do well at 84掳- 88 掳F (29掳- 31掳C) in the daytime and 74掳-78掳F (22掳-25掳C) at night. As they are nocturnal, these lizards do not require UV light for calcium absorption as many other lizards do, though it can be a useful addition for this purpose.
For lighting and heat a 40-60 watt bulb placed on a screen top at one end of the terrarium is sufficient. This can be either a white or a red (infra red) bulb, there is also a blue bulb available. The red or blue bulb provide will provide warmth as well as allow you to view your pet at night. Because Leopard Geckos are ectothermic they thermoregulate their body temperature, going from cool areas to warm areas as they need to. By placing the bulb on one end of the enclosure this leaves the other end as a cooler zone.
You can also provide a heating pad or under tank heater under the aquarium for additional heat. This is especially important if you use a white light and turn it off at night. A hot rock is not recommended as these lizards can be easily burned by one. Be sure you use a thermometer so you don't let the terrarium become overheated or under heated
Social Behavior/Activities:
These spotted lizards are desert creatures and nocturnal. They are very friendly and good with children. It is very rare that any specimen will bite, and they can be quickly trained out of the behavior. They can be perched on your shoulder or will hang on to your shirt as you walk around.
Leopard Geckos are relatively amicable with females of their own species, but two males housed together will fight to the death. If you have more than one, it should be one male with any number of females, provided you have space for them all.
If your Leopard Gecko gets in a situation where it feels threatened and perhaps grabbed by the tail, it will separate its tail from the rest of the body (autotomy). It will regenerate the tail, though it will never grow back to its former beauty.
When handling your gecko, take care not to take it outside in cold temperatures. While the desert does get cold at night, your critters are generally in a burrow deep underground, where it only ever reaches 56掳 F.
Handling:
The Leopard Gecko can be handled gently and will not tend to bite. Be careful so as not to bruise or hurt it. Never pick it up by the head or tail. A tame gecko can perch comfortably on your shoulder or hang from the front of your shirt. Always wash your hands before and after handling your pet gecko.
Breeding/Reproduction:
You can breed one male with as many females as you wish, provided you have the space for them, their babies, and places to sell the babies once they鈥檙e ready to go.
Leopard Geckos younger than three to four months are difficult to sex visually. Adults are fairly easy to sex at about nine months of age. Males tend to be a bit more bulky and have a slightly broader head and neck than the female. Also males will develop an external pair of hemipenal bulges just behind the vent at the base of the tail. They will also develop an inverted 'v' shaped row of inverted scales in front of the vent. Females do not have the bulges and the 'v' shaped row of scales are small.
If you are unsure as to whether your lizard is male or female, when introduced to another lizard, if they wag their tails back and forth very quickly (often seen right before they pounce on a cricket), the chances are that you have two males. Is recommended that you wait until a female weighs at least four ounces before you start her in a breeding program, though the bigger she is, the better.
Reptile mating is a brutal process and you may even think that the male is attacking the female. He will start by nipping at her tail, then will slowly move up her body, until he reaches her neck. He will then mount her.
The female will have one or two eggs at a time. You can 鈥榯emperature sex鈥?the little lizards by deciding what temperature to incubate them at. For mostly females, incubate at 78掳 - 83掳 F. For a mix, incubate at 84掳 - 87掳 F, and for mostly males, incubate at 88掳 - 91 掳 F. Keep in mind that lizards incubated at higher temperatures are generally more colorful and also hatch faster. Incubation period is between 46 and 60 days. A traditional hovovator will do the trick for an incubator and can be bought at around thirty dollars, so they are not that expensive.
The young lizards will not eat until after their first shed. The lizard needs to eat their shedded skin, as it contains vitamins and nutrients that the lizard needs. After this, they will start eating small or pinhead crickets and small meal worms.
Ailments:
The Leopard Gecko is one of the hardiest geckos in captivity with relatively few problems if kept properly.
Some of most common problems encountered with Leopard Geckos are: vitamin deficiency, coccidia, anorexia, gastroenteritis/diarrhea, autotomy/tail loss, Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD), mouth rot, egg binding, sand impaction, shedding problems, respiratory disease, prolapse, and stress. All of these can be avoided with proper care and nutrition, and a good clean environment.
Availability:
Leopard Geckos are readily available and many can be bought at around thirty US dollars at pet stores. More expensive and rarer varieties are often available from breeders via the internet.
Answers:
Well, they are generally $30-50 at places like petsmart. Also, they cost quite a bit to set up. I am presuming you have done your homework on them, and I will tell you how I got my mom to let me have a common toad in the house. ;)
Truthfully, I brought her in the house, showed my mom how cute she was when I pet her, and that sealed the deal. Of course, my mom adors all animals and doesn't find reptiles/amphibians creepy.
Your best chance is to bring her to a store and show her how much like a cat they are. I was watching a pair of albino adults and they reminded me of a panther. It was really funny to watch them chase the crickets. You shouldn't push it too much, since that usually never works. Show her a baby, and how adorable they are with their huge heads and tiny bodies :) Also, bring her over to the computer and show her a site about them or do a report on them. You really hit it on the head when you said "If I do good on testing can I get one" because thats the best way to go. Usually parents cant say no to that since they know you are working hard.
Show her you've done research, save money for the tank, UV lights, crickets, etc. Make sure that, other than the cost of the pet, your mom will not have to pay for anything else or even know its there. The best way to do that is to get a timer for the light, so she wont have to go in there when you are gone for parties, work, or other things.
So good luck, hope you get a gecko! You sound really responsible, so good luck in all that you do!
*I would tell her the cons of ALL other possable pets and so the geko is is the best option. (ex. Dogs and Cats - have to pick up poop; Bird - have to clean cage every day; All Mamals have to be spayed or neutered and vet visits, buy food every month. ect.)
*also you might want to try to show her how escape-proof the cage would be. we have a snake and you can get cages that lock and everything.
*and you might want to have her hold one of the lizards and she could realize they arent slimy or creepy.
I personally like them, we had a wild one crawl in our garage and it ate all the crickets in there.
Hope that helps! o_O
well really they are expensive b/c of all the heating lights, the sand/rocks, the tank, the lizard its self, food, and all the other accessories it needs... but on the other hand they are really cool, and easy to take care of!
so to get your mom to let you have one you need to tell her that you will help with the cost , ask if you can help around the house to earn money for some of it. and go for the its easy to take care of thing
show her some websites that give info on them
show her stuff like this:http://www.antiquark.com/blogimg/leopard...
Distribution:
The Leopard Gecko is an insectivorous lizard coming from Pakistan, Iran, and Afghanistan. They were imported into North America until the 1970s, when importation became illegal. They live in the desert and are nocturnal.
Description:
Leopard Geckos can have a lot of spots, or no spots at all, depending on what variation you have purchased. However, regardless of their color, they all require the same care. They get to be around eight inches long and five to eight ounces. The average life span of these lizards is five to seven years, but with good care they can live to be around 20 years old.
There are many color variations in the Leopard Gecko, the normal pattern (shown), albinos, blizzards, carrot tails, and tangerines are a few of the more popular varieties.
There is little visible difference between the sexes. The easiest way to tell them apart is to look at the hemipenes; the bulges at the base of the tail. The female will have one long bulge, but the male鈥檚 will be divided into two. Extremely young leopard geckos do not yet have their spots, but will gain them upon maturity.
Care and Feeding:
Leopard Geckos eat crickets and mealworms. You can offer an occasional wax worm too, but you should limit these as they have a high fat content (20%). It is highly recommended that you 鈥榞ut load鈥?your crickets with any of the commercially available gut loads. These vitamin-rich foods fill the crickets with the vitamins and minerals, so that when your lizard eats them, the lizard gets all of the good stuff too. The meal worms should be provided in a dish with some sort of calcium to get the calcium in their diet.
As a nocturnal species, Leopard Geckos often have a vitamin deficiency in the area of vitamin D3. To compensate, you could either add a fluorescent bulb with UV to your set up, or you could use a calcium powder with the vitamin already included. The lizard must have vitamin D3, or it cannot make use of the calcium.
Provide a water bowl, preferably with dechlorinated (distilled) water. If you choose to use a dechlorinator, Repti Safe is a good one to use as it also provides electrolytes.
For cleaning, you can use any reptile-approved cleaner, such as Jurassi Clean. Leopard Geckos, true to their easy-to-care-for attitude, will generally only defecate in one area of the cage. You may also wish to get a sand scoop as it is easiest just to sift this out whenever they relieve themselves. Also, Leopard Geckos will enjoy misting every once in a while, again, with dechlorinated water if possible.
Environment:
A single Leopard Gecko can make its home in a ten gallon fish aquarium with a screen top, while two or more can fit in a twenty gallon long/breeder. Do not use an acrylic tank of any sort for lizards as the heat lamps will often melt the acrylic. Be cautious with substrates such as calci-sands. If the sand is the only source (or the nearest) of calcium, the reptile could consume large amounts and the sand can impact the intestinal tract. This can create a blockage and ultimately killing the lizard. Carpet, paper towels, or a walnut-shell bedding (Nature Zone Litter) are preferable, as the walnut-shell does not swell with the liquid.
The Leopard Gecko should have, ultimately, one hide per gecko. They will sleep in these during the day. They will also enjoy something to climb on, such as a piece of grapevine, available at many pet stores.
These lizards should never be kept outside. The risk of mites is great when kept outdoors, as well as unpredictable temperatures and weather conditions. See the terrarium set-ups described under Basic Reptile and Amphibian Care for more information on housing.
Temperature and Lighting requirements:
Leopard Geckos do well at 84掳- 88 掳F (29掳- 31掳C) in the daytime and 74掳-78掳F (22掳-25掳C) at night. As they are nocturnal, these lizards do not require UV light for calcium absorption as many other lizards do, though it can be a useful addition for this purpose.
For lighting and heat a 40-60 watt bulb placed on a screen top at one end of the terrarium is sufficient. This can be either a white or a red (infra red) bulb, there is also a blue bulb available. The red or blue bulb provide will provide warmth as well as allow you to view your pet at night. Because Leopard Geckos are ectothermic they thermoregulate their body temperature, going from cool areas to warm areas as they need to. By placing the bulb on one end of the enclosure this leaves the other end as a cooler zone.
You can also provide a heating pad or under tank heater under the aquarium for additional heat. This is especially important if you use a white light and turn it off at night. A hot rock is not recommended as these lizards can be easily burned by one. Be sure you use a thermometer so you don't let the terrarium become overheated or under heated
Social Behavior/Activities:
These spotted lizards are desert creatures and nocturnal. They are very friendly and good with children. It is very rare that any specimen will bite, and they can be quickly trained out of the behavior. They can be perched on your shoulder or will hang on to your shirt as you walk around.
Leopard Geckos are relatively amicable with females of their own species, but two males housed together will fight to the death. If you have more than one, it should be one male with any number of females, provided you have space for them all.
If your Leopard Gecko gets in a situation where it feels threatened and perhaps grabbed by the tail, it will separate its tail from the rest of the body (autotomy). It will regenerate the tail, though it will never grow back to its former beauty.
When handling your gecko, take care not to take it outside in cold temperatures. While the desert does get cold at night, your critters are generally in a burrow deep underground, where it only ever reaches 56掳 F.
Handling:
The Leopard Gecko can be handled gently and will not tend to bite. Be careful so as not to bruise or hurt it. Never pick it up by the head or tail. A tame gecko can perch comfortably on your shoulder or hang from the front of your shirt. Always wash your hands before and after handling your pet gecko.
Breeding/Reproduction:
You can breed one male with as many females as you wish, provided you have the space for them, their babies, and places to sell the babies once they鈥檙e ready to go.
Leopard Geckos younger than three to four months are difficult to sex visually. Adults are fairly easy to sex at about nine months of age. Males tend to be a bit more bulky and have a slightly broader head and neck than the female. Also males will develop an external pair of hemipenal bulges just behind the vent at the base of the tail. They will also develop an inverted 'v' shaped row of inverted scales in front of the vent. Females do not have the bulges and the 'v' shaped row of scales are small.
If you are unsure as to whether your lizard is male or female, when introduced to another lizard, if they wag their tails back and forth very quickly (often seen right before they pounce on a cricket), the chances are that you have two males. Is recommended that you wait until a female weighs at least four ounces before you start her in a breeding program, though the bigger she is, the better.
Reptile mating is a brutal process and you may even think that the male is attacking the female. He will start by nipping at her tail, then will slowly move up her body, until he reaches her neck. He will then mount her.
The female will have one or two eggs at a time. You can 鈥榯emperature sex鈥?the little lizards by deciding what temperature to incubate them at. For mostly females, incubate at 78掳 - 83掳 F. For a mix, incubate at 84掳 - 87掳 F, and for mostly males, incubate at 88掳 - 91 掳 F. Keep in mind that lizards incubated at higher temperatures are generally more colorful and also hatch faster. Incubation period is between 46 and 60 days. A traditional hovovator will do the trick for an incubator and can be bought at around thirty dollars, so they are not that expensive.
The young lizards will not eat until after their first shed. The lizard needs to eat their shedded skin, as it contains vitamins and nutrients that the lizard needs. After this, they will start eating small or pinhead crickets and small meal worms.
Ailments:
The Leopard Gecko is one of the hardiest geckos in captivity with relatively few problems if kept properly.
Some of most common problems encountered with Leopard Geckos are: vitamin deficiency, coccidia, anorexia, gastroenteritis/diarrhea, autotomy/tail loss, Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD), mouth rot, egg binding, sand impaction, shedding problems, respiratory disease, prolapse, and stress. All of these can be avoided with proper care and nutrition, and a good clean environment.
Availability:
Leopard Geckos are readily available and many can be bought at around thirty US dollars at pet stores. More expensive and rarer varieties are often available from breeders via the internet.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)