How can i differentiate between turtles and tortoises? They look very alike.
What i know is that, if i'm not mistaken, turtles have webbed feets with claws whereas tortoise have elephant-like feets.
CAn u all tell me more about them??? XD
Answers:
Technically a tortoise is a type of turtle. There are three major types of turtles
Terrapins are aquatic and some live in fresh and a few live in salt or brackish water, and they will come on land to bask, these are species like red eard sliders, yellowbelloied turtles etc.
Tortoises live on land and rarly if ever come in water.
The other catagory is sea turtles, which of course live ion the sea.
Typically tortioses have high domed shells and webless rear feet. and terrapins have flater more arodynamic shells.
Turtles are Aquatic living mostly in the water. Tortoises are land animals and may go to the water to soak but will not swim.
You were right when you said tortoises have elephant like feet and that is for travel over land and for digging. Tortoises are mainly vegetarians where turtles will eat fish and aquatic vegetations along with crayfish and depending on the size and species of turtle, ducks and other water fowl are on the menu.
Friday, July 31, 2009
How can i convince my mom for a leopard gecko?
I am the manager of store at skool, i get good grades, im responsible. my mom thinks they are creepy, ive shown her pics and told her about them, she wont listen, my b-day is cummin up, should i drop it and bring it up then? should i ask her if i do well on the EQAO (grade 6 testing) if she can get me one? all ideas help. also let me know if u breed them, where are and ur prices. thnx!
Answers:
Well, they are generally $30-50 at places like petsmart. Also, they cost quite a bit to set up. I am presuming you have done your homework on them, and I will tell you how I got my mom to let me have a common toad in the house. ;)
Truthfully, I brought her in the house, showed my mom how cute she was when I pet her, and that sealed the deal. Of course, my mom adors all animals and doesn't find reptiles/amphibians creepy.
Your best chance is to bring her to a store and show her how much like a cat they are. I was watching a pair of albino adults and they reminded me of a panther. It was really funny to watch them chase the crickets. You shouldn't push it too much, since that usually never works. Show her a baby, and how adorable they are with their huge heads and tiny bodies :) Also, bring her over to the computer and show her a site about them or do a report on them. You really hit it on the head when you said "If I do good on testing can I get one" because thats the best way to go. Usually parents cant say no to that since they know you are working hard.
Show her you've done research, save money for the tank, UV lights, crickets, etc. Make sure that, other than the cost of the pet, your mom will not have to pay for anything else or even know its there. The best way to do that is to get a timer for the light, so she wont have to go in there when you are gone for parties, work, or other things.
So good luck, hope you get a gecko! You sound really responsible, so good luck in all that you do!
*I would tell her the cons of ALL other possable pets and so the geko is is the best option. (ex. Dogs and Cats - have to pick up poop; Bird - have to clean cage every day; All Mamals have to be spayed or neutered and vet visits, buy food every month. ect.)
*also you might want to try to show her how escape-proof the cage would be. we have a snake and you can get cages that lock and everything.
*and you might want to have her hold one of the lizards and she could realize they arent slimy or creepy.
I personally like them, we had a wild one crawl in our garage and it ate all the crickets in there.
Hope that helps! o_O
well really they are expensive b/c of all the heating lights, the sand/rocks, the tank, the lizard its self, food, and all the other accessories it needs... but on the other hand they are really cool, and easy to take care of!
so to get your mom to let you have one you need to tell her that you will help with the cost , ask if you can help around the house to earn money for some of it. and go for the its easy to take care of thing
show her some websites that give info on them
show her stuff like this:http://www.antiquark.com/blogimg/leopard...
Distribution:
The Leopard Gecko is an insectivorous lizard coming from Pakistan, Iran, and Afghanistan. They were imported into North America until the 1970s, when importation became illegal. They live in the desert and are nocturnal.
Description:
Leopard Geckos can have a lot of spots, or no spots at all, depending on what variation you have purchased. However, regardless of their color, they all require the same care. They get to be around eight inches long and five to eight ounces. The average life span of these lizards is five to seven years, but with good care they can live to be around 20 years old.
There are many color variations in the Leopard Gecko, the normal pattern (shown), albinos, blizzards, carrot tails, and tangerines are a few of the more popular varieties.
There is little visible difference between the sexes. The easiest way to tell them apart is to look at the hemipenes; the bulges at the base of the tail. The female will have one long bulge, but the male鈥檚 will be divided into two. Extremely young leopard geckos do not yet have their spots, but will gain them upon maturity.
Care and Feeding:
Leopard Geckos eat crickets and mealworms. You can offer an occasional wax worm too, but you should limit these as they have a high fat content (20%). It is highly recommended that you 鈥榞ut load鈥?your crickets with any of the commercially available gut loads. These vitamin-rich foods fill the crickets with the vitamins and minerals, so that when your lizard eats them, the lizard gets all of the good stuff too. The meal worms should be provided in a dish with some sort of calcium to get the calcium in their diet.
As a nocturnal species, Leopard Geckos often have a vitamin deficiency in the area of vitamin D3. To compensate, you could either add a fluorescent bulb with UV to your set up, or you could use a calcium powder with the vitamin already included. The lizard must have vitamin D3, or it cannot make use of the calcium.
Provide a water bowl, preferably with dechlorinated (distilled) water. If you choose to use a dechlorinator, Repti Safe is a good one to use as it also provides electrolytes.
For cleaning, you can use any reptile-approved cleaner, such as Jurassi Clean. Leopard Geckos, true to their easy-to-care-for attitude, will generally only defecate in one area of the cage. You may also wish to get a sand scoop as it is easiest just to sift this out whenever they relieve themselves. Also, Leopard Geckos will enjoy misting every once in a while, again, with dechlorinated water if possible.
Environment:
A single Leopard Gecko can make its home in a ten gallon fish aquarium with a screen top, while two or more can fit in a twenty gallon long/breeder. Do not use an acrylic tank of any sort for lizards as the heat lamps will often melt the acrylic. Be cautious with substrates such as calci-sands. If the sand is the only source (or the nearest) of calcium, the reptile could consume large amounts and the sand can impact the intestinal tract. This can create a blockage and ultimately killing the lizard. Carpet, paper towels, or a walnut-shell bedding (Nature Zone Litter) are preferable, as the walnut-shell does not swell with the liquid.
The Leopard Gecko should have, ultimately, one hide per gecko. They will sleep in these during the day. They will also enjoy something to climb on, such as a piece of grapevine, available at many pet stores.
These lizards should never be kept outside. The risk of mites is great when kept outdoors, as well as unpredictable temperatures and weather conditions. See the terrarium set-ups described under Basic Reptile and Amphibian Care for more information on housing.
Temperature and Lighting requirements:
Leopard Geckos do well at 84掳- 88 掳F (29掳- 31掳C) in the daytime and 74掳-78掳F (22掳-25掳C) at night. As they are nocturnal, these lizards do not require UV light for calcium absorption as many other lizards do, though it can be a useful addition for this purpose.
For lighting and heat a 40-60 watt bulb placed on a screen top at one end of the terrarium is sufficient. This can be either a white or a red (infra red) bulb, there is also a blue bulb available. The red or blue bulb provide will provide warmth as well as allow you to view your pet at night. Because Leopard Geckos are ectothermic they thermoregulate their body temperature, going from cool areas to warm areas as they need to. By placing the bulb on one end of the enclosure this leaves the other end as a cooler zone.
You can also provide a heating pad or under tank heater under the aquarium for additional heat. This is especially important if you use a white light and turn it off at night. A hot rock is not recommended as these lizards can be easily burned by one. Be sure you use a thermometer so you don't let the terrarium become overheated or under heated
Social Behavior/Activities:
These spotted lizards are desert creatures and nocturnal. They are very friendly and good with children. It is very rare that any specimen will bite, and they can be quickly trained out of the behavior. They can be perched on your shoulder or will hang on to your shirt as you walk around.
Leopard Geckos are relatively amicable with females of their own species, but two males housed together will fight to the death. If you have more than one, it should be one male with any number of females, provided you have space for them all.
If your Leopard Gecko gets in a situation where it feels threatened and perhaps grabbed by the tail, it will separate its tail from the rest of the body (autotomy). It will regenerate the tail, though it will never grow back to its former beauty.
When handling your gecko, take care not to take it outside in cold temperatures. While the desert does get cold at night, your critters are generally in a burrow deep underground, where it only ever reaches 56掳 F.
Handling:
The Leopard Gecko can be handled gently and will not tend to bite. Be careful so as not to bruise or hurt it. Never pick it up by the head or tail. A tame gecko can perch comfortably on your shoulder or hang from the front of your shirt. Always wash your hands before and after handling your pet gecko.
Breeding/Reproduction:
You can breed one male with as many females as you wish, provided you have the space for them, their babies, and places to sell the babies once they鈥檙e ready to go.
Leopard Geckos younger than three to four months are difficult to sex visually. Adults are fairly easy to sex at about nine months of age. Males tend to be a bit more bulky and have a slightly broader head and neck than the female. Also males will develop an external pair of hemipenal bulges just behind the vent at the base of the tail. They will also develop an inverted 'v' shaped row of inverted scales in front of the vent. Females do not have the bulges and the 'v' shaped row of scales are small.
If you are unsure as to whether your lizard is male or female, when introduced to another lizard, if they wag their tails back and forth very quickly (often seen right before they pounce on a cricket), the chances are that you have two males. Is recommended that you wait until a female weighs at least four ounces before you start her in a breeding program, though the bigger she is, the better.
Reptile mating is a brutal process and you may even think that the male is attacking the female. He will start by nipping at her tail, then will slowly move up her body, until he reaches her neck. He will then mount her.
The female will have one or two eggs at a time. You can 鈥榯emperature sex鈥?the little lizards by deciding what temperature to incubate them at. For mostly females, incubate at 78掳 - 83掳 F. For a mix, incubate at 84掳 - 87掳 F, and for mostly males, incubate at 88掳 - 91 掳 F. Keep in mind that lizards incubated at higher temperatures are generally more colorful and also hatch faster. Incubation period is between 46 and 60 days. A traditional hovovator will do the trick for an incubator and can be bought at around thirty dollars, so they are not that expensive.
The young lizards will not eat until after their first shed. The lizard needs to eat their shedded skin, as it contains vitamins and nutrients that the lizard needs. After this, they will start eating small or pinhead crickets and small meal worms.
Ailments:
The Leopard Gecko is one of the hardiest geckos in captivity with relatively few problems if kept properly.
Some of most common problems encountered with Leopard Geckos are: vitamin deficiency, coccidia, anorexia, gastroenteritis/diarrhea, autotomy/tail loss, Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD), mouth rot, egg binding, sand impaction, shedding problems, respiratory disease, prolapse, and stress. All of these can be avoided with proper care and nutrition, and a good clean environment.
Availability:
Leopard Geckos are readily available and many can be bought at around thirty US dollars at pet stores. More expensive and rarer varieties are often available from breeders via the internet.
Answers:
Well, they are generally $30-50 at places like petsmart. Also, they cost quite a bit to set up. I am presuming you have done your homework on them, and I will tell you how I got my mom to let me have a common toad in the house. ;)
Truthfully, I brought her in the house, showed my mom how cute she was when I pet her, and that sealed the deal. Of course, my mom adors all animals and doesn't find reptiles/amphibians creepy.
Your best chance is to bring her to a store and show her how much like a cat they are. I was watching a pair of albino adults and they reminded me of a panther. It was really funny to watch them chase the crickets. You shouldn't push it too much, since that usually never works. Show her a baby, and how adorable they are with their huge heads and tiny bodies :) Also, bring her over to the computer and show her a site about them or do a report on them. You really hit it on the head when you said "If I do good on testing can I get one" because thats the best way to go. Usually parents cant say no to that since they know you are working hard.
Show her you've done research, save money for the tank, UV lights, crickets, etc. Make sure that, other than the cost of the pet, your mom will not have to pay for anything else or even know its there. The best way to do that is to get a timer for the light, so she wont have to go in there when you are gone for parties, work, or other things.
So good luck, hope you get a gecko! You sound really responsible, so good luck in all that you do!
*I would tell her the cons of ALL other possable pets and so the geko is is the best option. (ex. Dogs and Cats - have to pick up poop; Bird - have to clean cage every day; All Mamals have to be spayed or neutered and vet visits, buy food every month. ect.)
*also you might want to try to show her how escape-proof the cage would be. we have a snake and you can get cages that lock and everything.
*and you might want to have her hold one of the lizards and she could realize they arent slimy or creepy.
I personally like them, we had a wild one crawl in our garage and it ate all the crickets in there.
Hope that helps! o_O
well really they are expensive b/c of all the heating lights, the sand/rocks, the tank, the lizard its self, food, and all the other accessories it needs... but on the other hand they are really cool, and easy to take care of!
so to get your mom to let you have one you need to tell her that you will help with the cost , ask if you can help around the house to earn money for some of it. and go for the its easy to take care of thing
show her some websites that give info on them
show her stuff like this:http://www.antiquark.com/blogimg/leopard...
Distribution:
The Leopard Gecko is an insectivorous lizard coming from Pakistan, Iran, and Afghanistan. They were imported into North America until the 1970s, when importation became illegal. They live in the desert and are nocturnal.
Description:
Leopard Geckos can have a lot of spots, or no spots at all, depending on what variation you have purchased. However, regardless of their color, they all require the same care. They get to be around eight inches long and five to eight ounces. The average life span of these lizards is five to seven years, but with good care they can live to be around 20 years old.
There are many color variations in the Leopard Gecko, the normal pattern (shown), albinos, blizzards, carrot tails, and tangerines are a few of the more popular varieties.
There is little visible difference between the sexes. The easiest way to tell them apart is to look at the hemipenes; the bulges at the base of the tail. The female will have one long bulge, but the male鈥檚 will be divided into two. Extremely young leopard geckos do not yet have their spots, but will gain them upon maturity.
Care and Feeding:
Leopard Geckos eat crickets and mealworms. You can offer an occasional wax worm too, but you should limit these as they have a high fat content (20%). It is highly recommended that you 鈥榞ut load鈥?your crickets with any of the commercially available gut loads. These vitamin-rich foods fill the crickets with the vitamins and minerals, so that when your lizard eats them, the lizard gets all of the good stuff too. The meal worms should be provided in a dish with some sort of calcium to get the calcium in their diet.
As a nocturnal species, Leopard Geckos often have a vitamin deficiency in the area of vitamin D3. To compensate, you could either add a fluorescent bulb with UV to your set up, or you could use a calcium powder with the vitamin already included. The lizard must have vitamin D3, or it cannot make use of the calcium.
Provide a water bowl, preferably with dechlorinated (distilled) water. If you choose to use a dechlorinator, Repti Safe is a good one to use as it also provides electrolytes.
For cleaning, you can use any reptile-approved cleaner, such as Jurassi Clean. Leopard Geckos, true to their easy-to-care-for attitude, will generally only defecate in one area of the cage. You may also wish to get a sand scoop as it is easiest just to sift this out whenever they relieve themselves. Also, Leopard Geckos will enjoy misting every once in a while, again, with dechlorinated water if possible.
Environment:
A single Leopard Gecko can make its home in a ten gallon fish aquarium with a screen top, while two or more can fit in a twenty gallon long/breeder. Do not use an acrylic tank of any sort for lizards as the heat lamps will often melt the acrylic. Be cautious with substrates such as calci-sands. If the sand is the only source (or the nearest) of calcium, the reptile could consume large amounts and the sand can impact the intestinal tract. This can create a blockage and ultimately killing the lizard. Carpet, paper towels, or a walnut-shell bedding (Nature Zone Litter) are preferable, as the walnut-shell does not swell with the liquid.
The Leopard Gecko should have, ultimately, one hide per gecko. They will sleep in these during the day. They will also enjoy something to climb on, such as a piece of grapevine, available at many pet stores.
These lizards should never be kept outside. The risk of mites is great when kept outdoors, as well as unpredictable temperatures and weather conditions. See the terrarium set-ups described under Basic Reptile and Amphibian Care for more information on housing.
Temperature and Lighting requirements:
Leopard Geckos do well at 84掳- 88 掳F (29掳- 31掳C) in the daytime and 74掳-78掳F (22掳-25掳C) at night. As they are nocturnal, these lizards do not require UV light for calcium absorption as many other lizards do, though it can be a useful addition for this purpose.
For lighting and heat a 40-60 watt bulb placed on a screen top at one end of the terrarium is sufficient. This can be either a white or a red (infra red) bulb, there is also a blue bulb available. The red or blue bulb provide will provide warmth as well as allow you to view your pet at night. Because Leopard Geckos are ectothermic they thermoregulate their body temperature, going from cool areas to warm areas as they need to. By placing the bulb on one end of the enclosure this leaves the other end as a cooler zone.
You can also provide a heating pad or under tank heater under the aquarium for additional heat. This is especially important if you use a white light and turn it off at night. A hot rock is not recommended as these lizards can be easily burned by one. Be sure you use a thermometer so you don't let the terrarium become overheated or under heated
Social Behavior/Activities:
These spotted lizards are desert creatures and nocturnal. They are very friendly and good with children. It is very rare that any specimen will bite, and they can be quickly trained out of the behavior. They can be perched on your shoulder or will hang on to your shirt as you walk around.
Leopard Geckos are relatively amicable with females of their own species, but two males housed together will fight to the death. If you have more than one, it should be one male with any number of females, provided you have space for them all.
If your Leopard Gecko gets in a situation where it feels threatened and perhaps grabbed by the tail, it will separate its tail from the rest of the body (autotomy). It will regenerate the tail, though it will never grow back to its former beauty.
When handling your gecko, take care not to take it outside in cold temperatures. While the desert does get cold at night, your critters are generally in a burrow deep underground, where it only ever reaches 56掳 F.
Handling:
The Leopard Gecko can be handled gently and will not tend to bite. Be careful so as not to bruise or hurt it. Never pick it up by the head or tail. A tame gecko can perch comfortably on your shoulder or hang from the front of your shirt. Always wash your hands before and after handling your pet gecko.
Breeding/Reproduction:
You can breed one male with as many females as you wish, provided you have the space for them, their babies, and places to sell the babies once they鈥檙e ready to go.
Leopard Geckos younger than three to four months are difficult to sex visually. Adults are fairly easy to sex at about nine months of age. Males tend to be a bit more bulky and have a slightly broader head and neck than the female. Also males will develop an external pair of hemipenal bulges just behind the vent at the base of the tail. They will also develop an inverted 'v' shaped row of inverted scales in front of the vent. Females do not have the bulges and the 'v' shaped row of scales are small.
If you are unsure as to whether your lizard is male or female, when introduced to another lizard, if they wag their tails back and forth very quickly (often seen right before they pounce on a cricket), the chances are that you have two males. Is recommended that you wait until a female weighs at least four ounces before you start her in a breeding program, though the bigger she is, the better.
Reptile mating is a brutal process and you may even think that the male is attacking the female. He will start by nipping at her tail, then will slowly move up her body, until he reaches her neck. He will then mount her.
The female will have one or two eggs at a time. You can 鈥榯emperature sex鈥?the little lizards by deciding what temperature to incubate them at. For mostly females, incubate at 78掳 - 83掳 F. For a mix, incubate at 84掳 - 87掳 F, and for mostly males, incubate at 88掳 - 91 掳 F. Keep in mind that lizards incubated at higher temperatures are generally more colorful and also hatch faster. Incubation period is between 46 and 60 days. A traditional hovovator will do the trick for an incubator and can be bought at around thirty dollars, so they are not that expensive.
The young lizards will not eat until after their first shed. The lizard needs to eat their shedded skin, as it contains vitamins and nutrients that the lizard needs. After this, they will start eating small or pinhead crickets and small meal worms.
Ailments:
The Leopard Gecko is one of the hardiest geckos in captivity with relatively few problems if kept properly.
Some of most common problems encountered with Leopard Geckos are: vitamin deficiency, coccidia, anorexia, gastroenteritis/diarrhea, autotomy/tail loss, Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD), mouth rot, egg binding, sand impaction, shedding problems, respiratory disease, prolapse, and stress. All of these can be avoided with proper care and nutrition, and a good clean environment.
Availability:
Leopard Geckos are readily available and many can be bought at around thirty US dollars at pet stores. More expensive and rarer varieties are often available from breeders via the internet.
How big would a 4 month old sunfire bearded dragon be? How big do they get?
Answers:
sunfire is just a color morph. they will get the same size as other beardies. the thing that makes a difference is the gender.
http://animal-world.com/encyclo/reptiles...
theres a pic of a female. the females get a few inches longer than the males.
heres some great tips
1. Yes, you need uva/uvb bulb AND Heat lamp...Christy
2. You can use a regular lightbulb for heat, as long as the temp is right...Christy
3. No calci-sand, it may be harmful...Christy
4. No crix bigger then the space between your dragon's eyes...Christy
5. Dragons do not normally drink from a dish, mist them and soak them in a warm bath a couple times per week...Christy
6. If the poop stinks worse than normal, take a fecal sample to the vet. Probably parasites...Christy
7. Do not use hotrocks...Christy
8. Males normally can't be kept together without fighting...Christy
9. Babies may not want to eat vegetables for a while...Christy
10. It's normal for your dragon to bulge it's eyes for a few seconds from time to time...Mia
11. Fireflies can be deadly if eaten by a dragon...Mia
12. Hardware stores and stores like Walmart, Kmart, etc. sell inexpensive strip light fixtures that work just as well with reptisun bulbs as those expensive pet store fixtures...Mia
13. You can purchase a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer for around $20.00 to keep track of both the hot %26 cool sides of the tank...ME
14. A recessed spot light bulb is a great way to concentrate the heat on only one side of the tank...ME
15. Play sand is an easy %26 economical substrate but make sure you pass the sand through a screen or strainer to remove any larger grains of sand...ME
16. Keep your habitat simple, crickets love to hide...ME
17. Always remember we're here if you need us...ME
18. When basking under a hot spotlight or direct sun, beardies may gape in order to cool down...Christy
19. Shelters should be made available and placed out of the range of the basking light...Christy
20. Any "food animals" offered need to be fed a high quality diet...Christy
21. Remove uneaten crickets from your tank, young dragons can become stressed from excess crickets climbing on them...Christy
22. A baby dragon should be fed 3x daily, and when fed crickets, s/he should be given as many as they will eat in 10-15 minutes...Mia
23. Remember to dust your crickets with calcium with D3 at one feeding per day, and with vitamins 1-2 times a week...Mia
24. Never take your dragon outside to sun in a glass tank. The glass amplifies the heat, and can quickly become fatal for your pet...Mia
25. Teaching your dragon to eat/drink from an eyedropper or syringe when they're feeling well is fairly easy, and makes medicating or hand feeding them in the future much easier should you ever need to...Mia
26. Male dragons housed together will almost surely fight at some point, and can seriously injure one another...Mia
27. A food processor or $10 Smart Chopper can cut your veggie prep time in half...Mia
28. While your dragon is shedding, it's mood and appetite might change..Angel
29. If you find that your dragon hasen't pooped in a while, try soaking them in warm water up to their shoulders...Angel
30. Make sure to research everything BEFORE buying your dragon...Angel
31. While sunning your Beardie outside, make sure they are "protected" from other predators..TNR
32. Beardies love to climb, make sure their tank furnishings are safe and secure.TNR
33. A well balanced diet will help your beardie live a long and prosperous life.TNR
34. Find a good veterinarian for your beardie BEFORE you need one...TNR
35. Enclosures should be longer and wider rather than higher...Chris
36. Put tiny crickets in a bowl with greens. The crickets can't get out, and as the beardie tries to catch them, he'll accidently eat the greens. After a couple of days, he should start eating the greens on his own...Elissa
37. Don't reach over your dragon to pick it up. It will just scare him. Try from the side or front...Chris
38. Your beardie should be able to come within at least 12 inches of the UVB bulb in order to gain it's full effectiveness...Aren
39. Remember that hatchlings and juvies are more skittish than adults so handling your youngsters at a safe level from the floor will help prevent injuries when he/she decides to make a run for it unexpectedly...Aren
40. It's a good idea for your beardie to have fecal checkups every 6 months or so...Dee
41. A salad of dark greens, squash, and veggies should be offered daily, even if your dragon doesn't eat it. Fruits can be added on occasion for a treat...Zookeeper
42. Make sure to feed your dragon no sooner than one hour after lights on and no later than two hours before lights out...Zookeeper
43. When a beardie is shedding it is good to give him a bath once a day until the shedding is done. The water aids in the shedding...Zookeeper
44. The dot on top of a bearded dragons head is normal, it is called a third eye...Zookeeper
45. Hatchlings and juveniles will sometimes raise their tails when alert. This is absolutely normal...Zookeeper
46. When taking your bearded dragon outside make sure they do not eat outside bugs as they could carry pesticides, herbicides or other chemicals that could be dangerous or deadly to your dragon...Zookeeper
47. When you spray your dragon make sure the water is warm - NOT cold...KC
48. UVB tube lights should be replaced every 6 months to maintain maximum strength...Prometheus
49. Make sure heavy objects are resting on the floor of the vivarium, you don't want to have your beardie get crushed if they dig under it...Prometheus
50. Consult a registered vet before medicating your dragon with anything that you wouldn't use on yourself...gary
51. Spending quality time to really get to know your dragon will answer a LOT of questions...gary
52. It is normal for dragons to dig a depression in the substrate when ready for bed...Erin
53. Information gained from the internet should be taken lightly. The advice could come from someone that's never even kept a bearded dragon...gary
54. Sleeping in unusual positions is normal for beardies. Don't become alarmed if they fall asleep standing on their tail or other funny places...Kitter
55. It's normal for a beardie to display his or her beard (the skin under the chin that will darken and puff out). Beardies do this when they feel threatened or even when they are basking to cool their insides.Kitter
56. Small baby and juvenile dragons can become impacted by eating wood chips used for bedding...Deb Z
57. Be careful not to spoil your dragon with too many waxworms and mealworms. Your dragon may decide it doesn't like regular food any more...Craig S
58. Make sure you give your dragon ample exercise. Let him/her run around a bit, but don't forget to keep your eye on them...RS
59. Keeping a constant eating pattern is part of keeping a bearded dragon healthy...Derrick
60. It's a good idea to get your beardies used to a pelleted diet. Moisten it and mix it with the veggies to get them used to it. I use it when I have to leave for a day or so...crystal
61. Make sure you pick out your dragon YOURSELF--know what to look for: healthy, alert, good habits, etc...Kassie
62. Avoid feeding spinach to a bearded dragon. It can keep calcium locked-up...Kim
63. Some bearded dragons will drink from a water bowl...John
64. Try to handle them a lot when they're babies. Mine has changed from running away from my hand when I grab him to jumping on my hand when I reach for him...Greg
65. Try to clean the sand thoroughly every two or three weeks (or more)...Kayla
66. If you have your beardie outside be careful of other people around that are not paying attention, it could be fatal...John
67. When handling babies/juvies do something they like. Maybe rub or spray some warm water on them, then they'll enjoy being in your hand...Connor
68. If you remove poo right away the cage will not stink...Sammy
69. Get your beardie to know you, handle him frequently...Ryan
70. Keep cats and other pets off of your dragons cage, this could stress him out and make him more open to illness...SASTCOOK
71. Never pick the smallest bearded no matter how cute he may be...WhirlyWig88
72. They love raspberries, these can be hand fed as treats, so your beardie will love you too!...Jenny
73. Don't pick your beardie up by it's tail alone...Mona
74. Avoid gathering wood from outside your yard for your beardy, it can bring in unwanted disease...Kitto
75. If you travel remember this... dragons over heat and die if left in a closed car on a warm or sunny day...angelicaj
76. Many baby dragons won't touch their veggies until after 4 months of age or so. They soon come around...Kat
77. A gaping mouth while basking under correct temps is normal. Your beardie is probably just regulating his body temp...Kat
78. When making an out-door enclosure for your beardie, make sure it is equiped with a shaded area that won't disappear when the sun changes it's angle...Lea
79. Dont't feed a baby or young dragon mealworms, they can't digest them well and it can cause health problems...Kat
80. Make sure you at least handle your dragon daily...Alan
81. Bearded dragons love being rubbed under their chins...Dreamangel13k
82. If your trying to get your dragon to drink from a dish put some berry juice in the water so it becomes scented. The dragon will be attracted to it because of the berry scent. Stop using the berry juice after a while and he/she will be used to drinking from the water...Adam
83. Bearded dragons love red hibiscus. It's good to dust the petals with vitamin powder too...Alex
Not very big. About the size of the palm of your hand still. I have a two year old male and he is about 14-15 inches so if that gives you an idea how big the males get.
For anymore infor look up www.beardeddragon.org
Dang ! That ryan guy knows alot about dragons..I just love them..read all his help !
How big will a female corn snake get?
i was trying to find out how big a female corn snake will get. i have had mine a/b 4 years %26 she is almost 7. when i got her i was told she was already full grow, but she just keeps getting bigger! she has to be b/w 6-7 feet long now. she is in a 55 gal tank. thank you for your time. :)
Answers:
Snakes grow their entire life, but only an inch or so each year after adulthood. I have never heard of a Captive Bred Corn Snake reaching seven feet - are you sure it's a pure corn, and not a possible Rat Snake?? (corn snakes have milder temperments, and are worth more - rat snakes encompass more species, but are not always as mild and sell for about 1/2 as much...)
My amelanistic corn lived for 10 years, was "big" at six feet. I rescued exotics (snakes, lizards, Hedgehogs) for several years.
I don't think she'll get much bigger...
Wow! She's a big one...don't expect her to get any bigger than she already is. I'll bet she's a beauty!
I dont think she'll grow much bigger,thats pretty huge for a corn
Answers:
Snakes grow their entire life, but only an inch or so each year after adulthood. I have never heard of a Captive Bred Corn Snake reaching seven feet - are you sure it's a pure corn, and not a possible Rat Snake?? (corn snakes have milder temperments, and are worth more - rat snakes encompass more species, but are not always as mild and sell for about 1/2 as much...)
My amelanistic corn lived for 10 years, was "big" at six feet. I rescued exotics (snakes, lizards, Hedgehogs) for several years.
I don't think she'll get much bigger...
Wow! She's a big one...don't expect her to get any bigger than she already is. I'll bet she's a beauty!
I dont think she'll grow much bigger,thats pretty huge for a corn
How big should the cage be for my bearded dragon?
he is about a foot long right now, and i have a 30 gallon tank for him. ut should it be bigger so he will have more room when he is full grown?
Answers:
I think you should move him into a 75 gallon tank, thats what I have my 20 incher in, and he loves it. I say if its inevitable it might as well be immediate, and you should switch him into his adult cage. Good luck finding a tank, and the space to put it!
A popular size enclosure for baby bearded dragons is 20 gallons; adults require enclosures of 40 gallons and larger, with 8 square feet of floor space being preferable. Thus bearded dragons should be upgraded to adult-sized enclosures within the first year of life.
www.wikipedia.com
The largest you can afford, if you can!
For minimum i'd say a 50 gallon aquarium. If you can, there are some aquariums that are wider rather than taller/longer, and are called 'breeder' aquariums.
If you can afford a larger tank (try used, if possible, www.craigslist.org and go to your city is a huge resource! and the price of a brand new 50+ gallon can be in the 150$++ range), the larger the better.
You should aim for something he can comfortable turn around in, as well as room to walk in ( 4-6 times the length of his body i'd imagine, and 2 times as wide for comfort) yet tall enough to accomodate a basking branch
Hope this helps
I would say a 40 or a 50. What ever you can afford. btw Bearded Dragons ROCK!!!!
As always as big as you can get but the minimum would have to be at least 4 feet long.
in my professional opinion i would say a 75 gallon but a 40 gallon breeder or a 55 gallon would suffice
Answers:
I think you should move him into a 75 gallon tank, thats what I have my 20 incher in, and he loves it. I say if its inevitable it might as well be immediate, and you should switch him into his adult cage. Good luck finding a tank, and the space to put it!
A popular size enclosure for baby bearded dragons is 20 gallons; adults require enclosures of 40 gallons and larger, with 8 square feet of floor space being preferable. Thus bearded dragons should be upgraded to adult-sized enclosures within the first year of life.
www.wikipedia.com
The largest you can afford, if you can!
For minimum i'd say a 50 gallon aquarium. If you can, there are some aquariums that are wider rather than taller/longer, and are called 'breeder' aquariums.
If you can afford a larger tank (try used, if possible, www.craigslist.org and go to your city is a huge resource! and the price of a brand new 50+ gallon can be in the 150$++ range), the larger the better.
You should aim for something he can comfortable turn around in, as well as room to walk in ( 4-6 times the length of his body i'd imagine, and 2 times as wide for comfort) yet tall enough to accomodate a basking branch
Hope this helps
I would say a 40 or a 50. What ever you can afford. btw Bearded Dragons ROCK!!!!
As always as big as you can get but the minimum would have to be at least 4 feet long.
in my professional opinion i would say a 75 gallon but a 40 gallon breeder or a 55 gallon would suffice
How big is...??
a painted turtle right after it was born?
cause i found a painted turtle, and i was going to keep it but i think it's too young...i think it was just born.i'm not even sure if it knows how to eat yet...so i want to know if this was old enough to keep or not!! P.S.-i already let it go, i wish i would of kept it, it was so cute...
Answers:
You did well %26 good to let it go, it's never a good idea to keep or catch wild animals or reptiles, etc any way..hopefully you put him back where you found him..they usually take care of themselves and follow their same routes %26 patterns as they have done all their lives ..TC %26 Peace :)
if u already let it go why did u ask??
try to feed it
they are so tiny, like 1 inche or so, or at least the one I found in my back yard. Its good that you didn't keep it because 1, its illegal to keep it and the other reason is that it sounds like it was just born
http://www.fishpondinfo.com/photos/repti...
http://www.fishpondinfo.com/photos/repti...
http://www.fishpondinfo.com/photos/repti...
Housing
A setup for a hatchling aquatic turtle (Snappy's setup on 2/12/03) from the side and above.
Hatchling and baby turtles can be kept in aquariums or plastic tubs of various kinds. I used a 15 gallon plastic storage tub. Plastic storage tubs are very cheap and work well for temporary homes if you do not want to buy a more expensive aquarium. The tub I have is partially clear so you can see in a bit from the side. Aquatic turtle hatchlings should be kept in shallow water.
The baby turtle's setup should be kept in an area that is warm unless you are using a heater (like I did). If you are not using artificial lighting, put the turtle's home where it can receive some natural lighting.
Water Depth:
The depth of water should be very shallow for hatchlings. You may start at only one inch deep (2.5 cm) for the first week while the hatchling is very inactive, absorbing his yolk. I kept the water under 2 inches (5 cm) for the first week or so without any filtration before adding the filter which requires a depth of at least 2.5 inches (7 cm) to work. By four-month-old snapper, Snappy was in water that was about 2.75 inches (8 cm) deep or maybe a little bit more. At four-months old, Snappy was about 4 inches long with a shell of about 1.75 inches, tail of 1.5 inches, and neck when stretched of 1 inch. So, it is good for the water to be no more deep than the baby turtle is long. Increase the water depth as the turtle grows. Turtles can drown! If a hatchling is put in 2 inches of water with no way to get in more shallow water (rock, fake plants, ramp, dry land, whatever), in order to breathe, he would have to tread water. A turtle can only tread for so long. So, it is better to have the water too shallow than too deep. Be sure to put in things to make at least one area shallow enough for the turtle to rest and breathe at the same time with no effort. As long as there are areas like that and a way to get out of the water, it is fine to have deeper areas once the turtle is active (at about 1-2 weeks old, before that, they do not move much).
Once they are about 6 months old, most aquatic turtles can take any water depths up a few feet deep as long as there are shallow areas and places to get out of the water easily, and they are used to such depths. For that reason, if the hatchling is going into the wild or a pond, gradually increase the depth over time to prepare him/her. I could not do this with Snappy because I had to carry the container twice a week up stairs to empty it, and I am very feeble so it was as full as I could manage (about 4 gallons). It is much better to have turtle setups on levels where you can drain with a hose (like my fish and lizard tanks are)! But, there is no drain in my basement, and that is the only place I had left to put him (no outlets or room upstairs!).
Filters
A filter is not absolutely required for a baby turtle but it is good to have. Not only will it keep the water cleaner, it will reduce the film that will develop on the surface, and give the baby some current against which to swim. I have used the Duetto 100 filter. It can lay on its side so it works in water as shallow as a few inches which is what hatchlings need. There are a few other submersible small filters that may work as well. I covered the intake with panty hose so that the live blackworms did not all get quickly sucked into the filter before the turtle could feed. Also, hatchlings that are weak may get feet sucked into a filter so a mesh cover is a good idea at first to prevent that. Getting the air out of the filter in order to get it started is not that easy and takes practice. I hold it open on its side and twist it to get the air out, close it, and plug it in and hope it starts. The Duetto has an adjustable output. So, when Snappy was very young, I set it on the slowest setting so the water barely moved so Snappy did not get thrown around the tank. By the time he was four-months-old, I had turned the setting all the way up. Snappy enjoyed swimming into the current. It is important however that only a portion of the tank/box have moving water so there are still areas where the baby can rest without having to fight the moving water. Adding plastic plants helps a lot with that. I used two meant for aquariums but had to take them out when Snappy tried to nibble on them. The hatchlings I have had seem to like to sit on top of the filter and heater so they are partly in the water and partly out while relaxing.
It is a good idea to not use any filters the first week or two as the turtles are so small and need very shallow water and are not producing much waste as they are absorbing their yolks.
Heaters
Baby turtles from temperate regions, such as those listed on my turtle species page do best if kept 70-75 degrees F. They will also do well as warm as 80 degrees F. These same turtles should be able to survive cooler temperatures, even so low as just above freezing in the bottom of a pond over winter if they were prepared for it. At first, I kept Snappy in the basement at about 60 degrees F. He ate very little but was doing okay. Then, someone with a baby painted turtle suggested heating the water. I set it at about 73 degrees F. Ever since then, Snappy became a voracious pig, eating a lot more food and growing much faster. As I wanted him to be as big and healthy as possible for spring release, this was very good. So, the warmer it is, the more the baby will eat. I used a 50 W aquarium heater by Visitherm which is submersible so it could be on its side. If you are having trouble getting a hatchling to eat, be sure it is warm enough.
A person who has raised baby turtles and released some wanted me to make it clear that for temperate species, a heater is NOT required. Without a heater, the turtle will be slower and eat less but that is as it would be in the wild (most likely even colder in winter). In the wild, hatchlings will be down to freezing in winter (in cold areas) on their own and do not eat at that time. Heaters are only absolutely required for species from tropical regions. Try to match the temperature of the turtle's native habitat. Also, prior to releasing a turtle that is used to the indoors, try to lower the temperature to that found outside gradually over time. Also, increase the water depth if you can in preparation.
Note, that larger turtles like snappers will start to be forceful at about 6-7 months old. Soon after, it is highly advisable to NOT have a heater as they can and will break them, possibly shocking themselves. I removed the thermometer from Snappy's setup around 4 months old because he started trying to eat it!! You could also set it up so that the heater was protected by something like a pile of rocks or other structure.
Also, some turtles will lay on heaters and burn themselves. The heater can be then hidden within or under something like a basking ramp. I found a resin fake log that worked well to cover the heater. I blocked the openings with vinyl-coated hardware cloth (rabbit wire). I aimed the filter output through the log to be sure the heater's heat moved throughout the tank.
Lighting
All reptiles need two kinds of light sources. The first is an incandescent lamp for basking that produces heat. Being cold-blooded, all reptiles need to warm themselves up via the sun or incandescent lamps (or ceramic heat emitters). I use a 100 W daylight during the day and a 75 W black night light during the night. The other light required is fluorescent full spectrum lighting with UV rays OR natural sunlight. The UVB rays are especially needed to allow the turtle to process enough Vitamin D. Vitamin deficiencies (A and D mostly) are manifested as swollen, oozing eyes and malformed shells for the most part. If those things show up, check the lighting situation. Since I only had Snappy for a short time, I wanted a cheap fluorescent fixture (I had lamps but no spare fixture). I ended up buying the new ESU Reptile Slimline Reptile Fixture with Super UV Lamp for $20 from Drs. Foster %26 Smith. It even includes the lamp which itself normally sells for $20 so it was a great deal for me. They also sell the fixtures I use for the incandescent heat lamps for Snappy and my lizard, Einstein. Such fixtures should be ceramic where the bulb goes due to the high heat. I ran Snappy's lights from about 6:30 am to 6:30 pm daily so it is about half daytime, half night time.
If you do not have access, resources, or money for lighting for a turtle, then put the cage/tank where it will receive natural sunlight for part of the day (be sure it does not overheat either though).
Basking Areas and Accessories
Aquatic turtles need an area where they can completely haul out of the water if they wish. This is often called the basking area as it is often underneath the incandescent heat lamps. It is easiest to create a small basking area for hatchlings using rocks. I used a flat piece of slate and later granite. Be sure the baby can crawl onto the rock, and there are no sharp edges to cut the turtle. I found that Drs. Foster %26 Smith sells turtle ramps that allow turtles to bask. The this photo to see it in Snappy's setup. They sell larger sizes for adult turtles too. In addition to rocks, fake plastic plants make good basking sites for hatchlings and baby turtles. Snappy hung out "hiding" among them and could easily rest with his head out without exerting himself. While snapping turtles rarely leave the water entirely, painted turtles, sliders, and most other aquatic turtles like to be able to get completely out of the water so more elaborate land areas can be built for them in the tank.
Feeding
It is sometimes VERY hard to get hatchling turtles to eat. They will live off of their yolks for about a week or two, depending on temperature. Do not worry if they do not eat for the first week because their yolks are sustaining them. The warmer they are, the more they will eat. At first, I could not get Snappy to eat anything, despite many offerings. After I had him for a week (maybe two-weeks-old then), he finally ate some live blackworms. That was ALL he ate at all for the first two months of his life. I tried many other live, frozen, and prepared foods as well as fruits and veggies but he basically said, "No way!" He did eat a few baby mealworms. So, for hatchlings aquatic turtles, no matter the species, try starting with very small live insects and worms. If you cannot get live, get frozen. These include blackworms, bloodworms, midges, mosquito larvae, tubifex, etc. Brine shrimp and daphnia are easy to find but less likely to be eaten by turtles than other animals. If you cannot get live or frozen, then freeze dried can be tried. The baby turtles are attracted to movement so live foods are really the best way to get them to eat. If it is an emergency and absolutely no live or frozen or freeze-dried animal-based foods can be found, a hatchling can be fed lunchmeat. Sometimes they will eat it. NEVER feed lunchmeat if you have other foods available. The more organic and pure the meat, the better. Chicken or turkey is best. Ground beef will just fall apart in the water and make a mess so avoid it.
Once they are really eating at a few months old, then they can pack down the food!!! Then, try adding commercial turtle pellets, small live insects (mealworms, crickets, etc.), waxworms, small roaches, small fish (baby guppies, minnows, baby goldfish, mollies, etc.), small live shrimp, trout worms (little earthworms), fruits (halved grapes, apple, melon, strawberry, etc.) for some species, and vegetables (kale, spinach, romaine, etc. but not iceburg lettuce or cabbage) for some species that eat plant matter. When you add these foods depends on the turtle's species, size, water temperature, and other factors. What they may not eat at a month old, they could eat at four months old for example. Snapping turtles, musk and mud turtles, and some other turtles will not usually eat fruits and vegetables but painted turtles, red-eared sliders, etc. learn to love plants and fruits and may even eat more of those as adults. For adult aquatic turtle feeding, see my turtle feeding page. Some of the things are the same.
Due to their small size, it is not necessary to feed the baby turtle in a separate location than their regular home as suggested with larger turtles. This gives the baby time to find, examine, and eat new kinds of foods without time constraints. Since they are fed in their regular home, they may require more tank cleanings than otherwise but, being small, they also produce less waste.
These are the dried, commercial turtle diets that Snappy tried, and he ate all of them. He prefered the first two the most and, at 4-months-old, lunged for those kinds. Many hatchlings do not like turtle pellets. I was very surprised that Snappy ate them (only after I had him for 3 months though). Most of these foods can be purchased from many pet stores including the two I use most often: That Pet Place and Drs. Foster %26 Smith. After the name, I list the first three ingredients in the food.
* 1. Hikari Turtle Sticks (fish, shrimp, wheat).
* 2. NutraFin Max Turtle Gammarus Pellets (fish, gammarus, corn flour).
* 3. Tetra ReptoMin Floating Food Sticks (fish, wheat, yeast).
* 4. Tetrafauna ReptoMin Baby (wheat, fish, yeast). These are smaller pieces of #3, and I have only seen them in my local fish store.
* 5. Wardley Turtle Delite (100% dried whole shrimp). These are a bit big but Snappy started eating them at about 3-months-old.
* 6. Zoo Med's Turtle Treat (ocean krill). These are small pieces and good for hatchlings that are too small to eat other prepared foods.
For information on feeding adult aquatic turtles which may be helpful for hatchlings, see the turtle feeding page.
Maintenance
How often the water is changed depends on how big the tank is, how much water is in it, how big the turtle is, how warm it is, how much food is fed, and more. I changed Snappy's water three times a week (Tuesday night, Thursday night, and Sunday morning) with a 100% water change. After washing everything, I put in new water, some aquarium salt (a tablespoon per 5 gallons is good) and some turtle water conditioner (contains some good bacteria to help digest turtle poo and also dechlorinates city water (I have well water though). If you have city water, add dechlorinator, as just like fish, turtles absorb toxins from the water into their bodies. I cleaned the filter with the water changes but only changed the insides in it every 3 weeks.
Salt and Shedding:
Salt helps to suppress fungal infections which are very common. A tablespoon per 2-5 gallons is good for turtles. Baby turtles shed quite a bit. It may be mistaken for fungus but it is not. Gently rub the turtle with a soft toothbrush to remove the loose skin if you want to but it is not necessary as it will fall off. Snappy was constantly shedding once I put a heater into the tank. Do NOT treat a hatchling or baby for fungus (with a turtle fungal medication) if you think it might just be normal shedding. It can be hard to tell as fungus is very common in adult turtles, usually at the site of a injury.
it will know how to eat they are born with that instinct and they are maybe the size of a maybe a little smaller than a 50 cent piece
cause i found a painted turtle, and i was going to keep it but i think it's too young...i think it was just born.i'm not even sure if it knows how to eat yet...so i want to know if this was old enough to keep or not!! P.S.-i already let it go, i wish i would of kept it, it was so cute...
Answers:
You did well %26 good to let it go, it's never a good idea to keep or catch wild animals or reptiles, etc any way..hopefully you put him back where you found him..they usually take care of themselves and follow their same routes %26 patterns as they have done all their lives ..TC %26 Peace :)
if u already let it go why did u ask??
try to feed it
they are so tiny, like 1 inche or so, or at least the one I found in my back yard. Its good that you didn't keep it because 1, its illegal to keep it and the other reason is that it sounds like it was just born
http://www.fishpondinfo.com/photos/repti...
http://www.fishpondinfo.com/photos/repti...
http://www.fishpondinfo.com/photos/repti...
Housing
A setup for a hatchling aquatic turtle (Snappy's setup on 2/12/03) from the side and above.
Hatchling and baby turtles can be kept in aquariums or plastic tubs of various kinds. I used a 15 gallon plastic storage tub. Plastic storage tubs are very cheap and work well for temporary homes if you do not want to buy a more expensive aquarium. The tub I have is partially clear so you can see in a bit from the side. Aquatic turtle hatchlings should be kept in shallow water.
The baby turtle's setup should be kept in an area that is warm unless you are using a heater (like I did). If you are not using artificial lighting, put the turtle's home where it can receive some natural lighting.
Water Depth:
The depth of water should be very shallow for hatchlings. You may start at only one inch deep (2.5 cm) for the first week while the hatchling is very inactive, absorbing his yolk. I kept the water under 2 inches (5 cm) for the first week or so without any filtration before adding the filter which requires a depth of at least 2.5 inches (7 cm) to work. By four-month-old snapper, Snappy was in water that was about 2.75 inches (8 cm) deep or maybe a little bit more. At four-months old, Snappy was about 4 inches long with a shell of about 1.75 inches, tail of 1.5 inches, and neck when stretched of 1 inch. So, it is good for the water to be no more deep than the baby turtle is long. Increase the water depth as the turtle grows. Turtles can drown! If a hatchling is put in 2 inches of water with no way to get in more shallow water (rock, fake plants, ramp, dry land, whatever), in order to breathe, he would have to tread water. A turtle can only tread for so long. So, it is better to have the water too shallow than too deep. Be sure to put in things to make at least one area shallow enough for the turtle to rest and breathe at the same time with no effort. As long as there are areas like that and a way to get out of the water, it is fine to have deeper areas once the turtle is active (at about 1-2 weeks old, before that, they do not move much).
Once they are about 6 months old, most aquatic turtles can take any water depths up a few feet deep as long as there are shallow areas and places to get out of the water easily, and they are used to such depths. For that reason, if the hatchling is going into the wild or a pond, gradually increase the depth over time to prepare him/her. I could not do this with Snappy because I had to carry the container twice a week up stairs to empty it, and I am very feeble so it was as full as I could manage (about 4 gallons). It is much better to have turtle setups on levels where you can drain with a hose (like my fish and lizard tanks are)! But, there is no drain in my basement, and that is the only place I had left to put him (no outlets or room upstairs!).
Filters
A filter is not absolutely required for a baby turtle but it is good to have. Not only will it keep the water cleaner, it will reduce the film that will develop on the surface, and give the baby some current against which to swim. I have used the Duetto 100 filter. It can lay on its side so it works in water as shallow as a few inches which is what hatchlings need. There are a few other submersible small filters that may work as well. I covered the intake with panty hose so that the live blackworms did not all get quickly sucked into the filter before the turtle could feed. Also, hatchlings that are weak may get feet sucked into a filter so a mesh cover is a good idea at first to prevent that. Getting the air out of the filter in order to get it started is not that easy and takes practice. I hold it open on its side and twist it to get the air out, close it, and plug it in and hope it starts. The Duetto has an adjustable output. So, when Snappy was very young, I set it on the slowest setting so the water barely moved so Snappy did not get thrown around the tank. By the time he was four-months-old, I had turned the setting all the way up. Snappy enjoyed swimming into the current. It is important however that only a portion of the tank/box have moving water so there are still areas where the baby can rest without having to fight the moving water. Adding plastic plants helps a lot with that. I used two meant for aquariums but had to take them out when Snappy tried to nibble on them. The hatchlings I have had seem to like to sit on top of the filter and heater so they are partly in the water and partly out while relaxing.
It is a good idea to not use any filters the first week or two as the turtles are so small and need very shallow water and are not producing much waste as they are absorbing their yolks.
Heaters
Baby turtles from temperate regions, such as those listed on my turtle species page do best if kept 70-75 degrees F. They will also do well as warm as 80 degrees F. These same turtles should be able to survive cooler temperatures, even so low as just above freezing in the bottom of a pond over winter if they were prepared for it. At first, I kept Snappy in the basement at about 60 degrees F. He ate very little but was doing okay. Then, someone with a baby painted turtle suggested heating the water. I set it at about 73 degrees F. Ever since then, Snappy became a voracious pig, eating a lot more food and growing much faster. As I wanted him to be as big and healthy as possible for spring release, this was very good. So, the warmer it is, the more the baby will eat. I used a 50 W aquarium heater by Visitherm which is submersible so it could be on its side. If you are having trouble getting a hatchling to eat, be sure it is warm enough.
A person who has raised baby turtles and released some wanted me to make it clear that for temperate species, a heater is NOT required. Without a heater, the turtle will be slower and eat less but that is as it would be in the wild (most likely even colder in winter). In the wild, hatchlings will be down to freezing in winter (in cold areas) on their own and do not eat at that time. Heaters are only absolutely required for species from tropical regions. Try to match the temperature of the turtle's native habitat. Also, prior to releasing a turtle that is used to the indoors, try to lower the temperature to that found outside gradually over time. Also, increase the water depth if you can in preparation.
Note, that larger turtles like snappers will start to be forceful at about 6-7 months old. Soon after, it is highly advisable to NOT have a heater as they can and will break them, possibly shocking themselves. I removed the thermometer from Snappy's setup around 4 months old because he started trying to eat it!! You could also set it up so that the heater was protected by something like a pile of rocks or other structure.
Also, some turtles will lay on heaters and burn themselves. The heater can be then hidden within or under something like a basking ramp. I found a resin fake log that worked well to cover the heater. I blocked the openings with vinyl-coated hardware cloth (rabbit wire). I aimed the filter output through the log to be sure the heater's heat moved throughout the tank.
Lighting
All reptiles need two kinds of light sources. The first is an incandescent lamp for basking that produces heat. Being cold-blooded, all reptiles need to warm themselves up via the sun or incandescent lamps (or ceramic heat emitters). I use a 100 W daylight during the day and a 75 W black night light during the night. The other light required is fluorescent full spectrum lighting with UV rays OR natural sunlight. The UVB rays are especially needed to allow the turtle to process enough Vitamin D. Vitamin deficiencies (A and D mostly) are manifested as swollen, oozing eyes and malformed shells for the most part. If those things show up, check the lighting situation. Since I only had Snappy for a short time, I wanted a cheap fluorescent fixture (I had lamps but no spare fixture). I ended up buying the new ESU Reptile Slimline Reptile Fixture with Super UV Lamp for $20 from Drs. Foster %26 Smith. It even includes the lamp which itself normally sells for $20 so it was a great deal for me. They also sell the fixtures I use for the incandescent heat lamps for Snappy and my lizard, Einstein. Such fixtures should be ceramic where the bulb goes due to the high heat. I ran Snappy's lights from about 6:30 am to 6:30 pm daily so it is about half daytime, half night time.
If you do not have access, resources, or money for lighting for a turtle, then put the cage/tank where it will receive natural sunlight for part of the day (be sure it does not overheat either though).
Basking Areas and Accessories
Aquatic turtles need an area where they can completely haul out of the water if they wish. This is often called the basking area as it is often underneath the incandescent heat lamps. It is easiest to create a small basking area for hatchlings using rocks. I used a flat piece of slate and later granite. Be sure the baby can crawl onto the rock, and there are no sharp edges to cut the turtle. I found that Drs. Foster %26 Smith sells turtle ramps that allow turtles to bask. The this photo to see it in Snappy's setup. They sell larger sizes for adult turtles too. In addition to rocks, fake plastic plants make good basking sites for hatchlings and baby turtles. Snappy hung out "hiding" among them and could easily rest with his head out without exerting himself. While snapping turtles rarely leave the water entirely, painted turtles, sliders, and most other aquatic turtles like to be able to get completely out of the water so more elaborate land areas can be built for them in the tank.
Feeding
It is sometimes VERY hard to get hatchling turtles to eat. They will live off of their yolks for about a week or two, depending on temperature. Do not worry if they do not eat for the first week because their yolks are sustaining them. The warmer they are, the more they will eat. At first, I could not get Snappy to eat anything, despite many offerings. After I had him for a week (maybe two-weeks-old then), he finally ate some live blackworms. That was ALL he ate at all for the first two months of his life. I tried many other live, frozen, and prepared foods as well as fruits and veggies but he basically said, "No way!" He did eat a few baby mealworms. So, for hatchlings aquatic turtles, no matter the species, try starting with very small live insects and worms. If you cannot get live, get frozen. These include blackworms, bloodworms, midges, mosquito larvae, tubifex, etc. Brine shrimp and daphnia are easy to find but less likely to be eaten by turtles than other animals. If you cannot get live or frozen, then freeze dried can be tried. The baby turtles are attracted to movement so live foods are really the best way to get them to eat. If it is an emergency and absolutely no live or frozen or freeze-dried animal-based foods can be found, a hatchling can be fed lunchmeat. Sometimes they will eat it. NEVER feed lunchmeat if you have other foods available. The more organic and pure the meat, the better. Chicken or turkey is best. Ground beef will just fall apart in the water and make a mess so avoid it.
Once they are really eating at a few months old, then they can pack down the food!!! Then, try adding commercial turtle pellets, small live insects (mealworms, crickets, etc.), waxworms, small roaches, small fish (baby guppies, minnows, baby goldfish, mollies, etc.), small live shrimp, trout worms (little earthworms), fruits (halved grapes, apple, melon, strawberry, etc.) for some species, and vegetables (kale, spinach, romaine, etc. but not iceburg lettuce or cabbage) for some species that eat plant matter. When you add these foods depends on the turtle's species, size, water temperature, and other factors. What they may not eat at a month old, they could eat at four months old for example. Snapping turtles, musk and mud turtles, and some other turtles will not usually eat fruits and vegetables but painted turtles, red-eared sliders, etc. learn to love plants and fruits and may even eat more of those as adults. For adult aquatic turtle feeding, see my turtle feeding page. Some of the things are the same.
Due to their small size, it is not necessary to feed the baby turtle in a separate location than their regular home as suggested with larger turtles. This gives the baby time to find, examine, and eat new kinds of foods without time constraints. Since they are fed in their regular home, they may require more tank cleanings than otherwise but, being small, they also produce less waste.
These are the dried, commercial turtle diets that Snappy tried, and he ate all of them. He prefered the first two the most and, at 4-months-old, lunged for those kinds. Many hatchlings do not like turtle pellets. I was very surprised that Snappy ate them (only after I had him for 3 months though). Most of these foods can be purchased from many pet stores including the two I use most often: That Pet Place and Drs. Foster %26 Smith. After the name, I list the first three ingredients in the food.
* 1. Hikari Turtle Sticks (fish, shrimp, wheat).
* 2. NutraFin Max Turtle Gammarus Pellets (fish, gammarus, corn flour).
* 3. Tetra ReptoMin Floating Food Sticks (fish, wheat, yeast).
* 4. Tetrafauna ReptoMin Baby (wheat, fish, yeast). These are smaller pieces of #3, and I have only seen them in my local fish store.
* 5. Wardley Turtle Delite (100% dried whole shrimp). These are a bit big but Snappy started eating them at about 3-months-old.
* 6. Zoo Med's Turtle Treat (ocean krill). These are small pieces and good for hatchlings that are too small to eat other prepared foods.
For information on feeding adult aquatic turtles which may be helpful for hatchlings, see the turtle feeding page.
Maintenance
How often the water is changed depends on how big the tank is, how much water is in it, how big the turtle is, how warm it is, how much food is fed, and more. I changed Snappy's water three times a week (Tuesday night, Thursday night, and Sunday morning) with a 100% water change. After washing everything, I put in new water, some aquarium salt (a tablespoon per 5 gallons is good) and some turtle water conditioner (contains some good bacteria to help digest turtle poo and also dechlorinates city water (I have well water though). If you have city water, add dechlorinator, as just like fish, turtles absorb toxins from the water into their bodies. I cleaned the filter with the water changes but only changed the insides in it every 3 weeks.
Salt and Shedding:
Salt helps to suppress fungal infections which are very common. A tablespoon per 2-5 gallons is good for turtles. Baby turtles shed quite a bit. It may be mistaken for fungus but it is not. Gently rub the turtle with a soft toothbrush to remove the loose skin if you want to but it is not necessary as it will fall off. Snappy was constantly shedding once I put a heater into the tank. Do NOT treat a hatchling or baby for fungus (with a turtle fungal medication) if you think it might just be normal shedding. It can be hard to tell as fungus is very common in adult turtles, usually at the site of a injury.
it will know how to eat they are born with that instinct and they are maybe the size of a maybe a little smaller than a 50 cent piece
How Big is the Pro Mist PM-60 Misting System?
I'm building a reptile enclosure and plan to use the Pro Mist PM-60 and want to store it in a cabinet to be built attached to the enclosure, but cannot find the dimensions anywhere. Would anyone be able to tell me the dimensions, measurement, size of this system? Thanks!
Answers:
Your right, there are no sites that list the dimensions. Your best bet is just to call the store and ask them if they know measurements or if they could measure it themselves. Here is the number from the Pro Products store in New York (845) 628-8960 .
Answers:
Your right, there are no sites that list the dimensions. Your best bet is just to call the store and ask them if they know measurements or if they could measure it themselves. Here is the number from the Pro Products store in New York (845) 628-8960 .
How big do salamanders get?
Answers:
Most are small but some reach up to 5 feet (1.5 m) in length
North America has the hellbender and the mudpuppy which can reach the length of a foot (30 cm) or more. In Japan and China the giant salamander is found, which reaches 5 feet (1.5 m)
The largest salamander in the US is the hellbender (Cryptobranchus alleganiensis), which gets up to 29 inches. (That's the largest known.)
eNature's hellbender page - http://www.enature.com/fieldguides/detai...
The largest in the world is the Japanese Giant Salamander (Andrias japonicus), which is in the same family as the hellbender. It gets up to almost five feet.
University of Michigan's Japanese giant salamander page - http://animaldiversity.ummz.umich.edu/si...
well hun what kind do you have? i have 3 fire belly newts(salamanders that are black with orange bellies)
they get about as long as your middle finger not including tail
they can get fat tho, so dont over feed them
i feed mine 4 floating turtle pellets for all of them every day
one died because she over ate she got really really fat but she was already getting fat when i bought her
How big do iguanas get? Mine is around 4 foot as we speak and...?
he is living in a 6 ft X 8 ft enclosure, complete with the uv and all of that, he's very healthy.
Answers:
Mine is a little over 5 foot long. I'm not sure how old he is cuz I adopted him from our local "dog pound" where someone dumped him with a bunch of puppies. I've had him almost ten years. Max has a whole room to himself where his heat lamp, heat rock, pool, food etc. is located but he has free run of the house. He always goes to his room to "potty" and is very a friendly fellow. He gets along fine with my 4 dogs and two cats.
Wow, that's a big iguana. Sure it's not a komodo dragon in disguise? :-)
According to http://www.iguana.com/, they can get up to 5'5".
i say tops about 6 feet but what kind of iguana is yours..
yes, they get huge, most people dont tell you that when you are given them. they can grow to between 5 and 6 feet. he needs a bigger cage.
as a side note, if you go downto florida you can see hundreds of iguanas people have let loose becaue they didnt think the iguana would get that big. iguanas are not indiginous to that area, but when you see so many you would think they would be. but most of those have just been let loose by previous owners. people also used to give them to zoos, but they wont take them anymore because they are so common and most already have too many.
When i worked for a reptile breeder we had a pair, m/f, that were just over 6 1/2 ft, but they were both over 10 yrs old. the enclosure they were in was 8' wide, 12' long and 6' high, they were very happy in it, as long as they could get to within 12 inches of the heat source and uv.
Answers:
Mine is a little over 5 foot long. I'm not sure how old he is cuz I adopted him from our local "dog pound" where someone dumped him with a bunch of puppies. I've had him almost ten years. Max has a whole room to himself where his heat lamp, heat rock, pool, food etc. is located but he has free run of the house. He always goes to his room to "potty" and is very a friendly fellow. He gets along fine with my 4 dogs and two cats.
Wow, that's a big iguana. Sure it's not a komodo dragon in disguise? :-)
According to http://www.iguana.com/, they can get up to 5'5".
i say tops about 6 feet but what kind of iguana is yours..
yes, they get huge, most people dont tell you that when you are given them. they can grow to between 5 and 6 feet. he needs a bigger cage.
as a side note, if you go downto florida you can see hundreds of iguanas people have let loose becaue they didnt think the iguana would get that big. iguanas are not indiginous to that area, but when you see so many you would think they would be. but most of those have just been let loose by previous owners. people also used to give them to zoos, but they wont take them anymore because they are so common and most already have too many.
When i worked for a reptile breeder we had a pair, m/f, that were just over 6 1/2 ft, but they were both over 10 yrs old. the enclosure they were in was 8' wide, 12' long and 6' high, they were very happy in it, as long as they could get to within 12 inches of the heat source and uv.
How big do garter snakes get?
i have one and i wanna see how big my baby gets. :]
Answers:
Garter snakes reach about 2.5-3 feet. Occasionaly they will reach 3.5, but that's not common.
Most are under 2 feet, but they can get as long as three. Much larger that a typical women's garter.
Most garter snakes are under 60 cm (24 inches) long, but can be larger.
Garter snakes generally do not grow to any great size, reaching about three feet with a very narrow girth.
Garter snakes, due to their small size, are quick to heat up and cool down.
Answers:
Garter snakes reach about 2.5-3 feet. Occasionaly they will reach 3.5, but that's not common.
Most are under 2 feet, but they can get as long as three. Much larger that a typical women's garter.
Most garter snakes are under 60 cm (24 inches) long, but can be larger.
Garter snakes generally do not grow to any great size, reaching about three feet with a very narrow girth.
Garter snakes, due to their small size, are quick to heat up and cool down.
How big do full grown cornsnakes get? How much should I feed mine now?
I have a cornsnake that is about 3 feet long and a year and 5 months old. Anyone know about how big he or she will get. Also, is 3 large fuzzies a week too much to feed him? He/she is about 1/2 - 3/4 inch thick at his widest part.
Answers:
i think 3 fuzzies is a bit much. i think you should move up to hoppers (1 ) or Weanlings (if weanlings only 1) 3 fuzzies are alot for corn snakes to eat. the older they get the more days you can space out for feeding. (a week up to-10 days) per each feding. make sure you leave your corn snake alone for 48 hours after any meal of any size. corn snakes can get up too 5 even 6 feet long. very rare in cases feeding your corn to much food at a time can hurt there insides. if you have anything more to ask yim or mail me at darkmorning1@yahoo.com you said he/she if you want to know how to sex your corn snake i can tell you how.
3'-4' is likely as big as your cornsnake will get.
As for feeding it, if it's taking the three fuzzies without puking them back up--then you might want to think about feeding it regular sized mice now. Try feeding it one full sized mouse and see if the lump seems too big. It should be fine to feed it two regular sized mice a week to 10 days.
Are you sure that it's 1/2 3/4 inch thick at its widest part? That's pretty small for a 3' corn.
They can get up to 5 to 6 feet I have seen a male 6 feet.
For a 3 foot long corn you could probably give it the next size up from the fuzzies, here are 2 good sites that can help you,
http://members.aol.com/kathandcam/hawkhe...
http://www.anapsid.org/corn.html...
A corn snake will get as big as your enclosure will allow them. I would only feed him once a week or even up to once every 2 weeks now that he is over a year old. They can even go with eating once a month but I wouldn't recommend that. Keep in mind that if your snake is going to be shedding or is shedding don't try and feed him. My female was approx. 5' long and my male is around the same length.
You may want to seach ..cathy love..she is the corn snake guru....most of the corn snake color morphs have come from both bill and cathy love
Answers:
i think 3 fuzzies is a bit much. i think you should move up to hoppers (1 ) or Weanlings (if weanlings only 1) 3 fuzzies are alot for corn snakes to eat. the older they get the more days you can space out for feeding. (a week up to-10 days) per each feding. make sure you leave your corn snake alone for 48 hours after any meal of any size. corn snakes can get up too 5 even 6 feet long. very rare in cases feeding your corn to much food at a time can hurt there insides. if you have anything more to ask yim or mail me at darkmorning1@yahoo.com you said he/she if you want to know how to sex your corn snake i can tell you how.
3'-4' is likely as big as your cornsnake will get.
As for feeding it, if it's taking the three fuzzies without puking them back up--then you might want to think about feeding it regular sized mice now. Try feeding it one full sized mouse and see if the lump seems too big. It should be fine to feed it two regular sized mice a week to 10 days.
Are you sure that it's 1/2 3/4 inch thick at its widest part? That's pretty small for a 3' corn.
They can get up to 5 to 6 feet I have seen a male 6 feet.
For a 3 foot long corn you could probably give it the next size up from the fuzzies, here are 2 good sites that can help you,
http://members.aol.com/kathandcam/hawkhe...
http://www.anapsid.org/corn.html...
A corn snake will get as big as your enclosure will allow them. I would only feed him once a week or even up to once every 2 weeks now that he is over a year old. They can even go with eating once a month but I wouldn't recommend that. Keep in mind that if your snake is going to be shedding or is shedding don't try and feed him. My female was approx. 5' long and my male is around the same length.
You may want to seach ..cathy love..she is the corn snake guru....most of the corn snake color morphs have come from both bill and cathy love
How big can an Albino Burmese Python get? How long do they live?
My hubby has one and it's already 8'+. How much bigger can I expect it to get?
Answers:
You can expect it to get alot bigger. Most burmese in captivity will top out at 17-18 feet. Although, it is possible that it can get larger than that. They can reach lengths of 25+ feet, but that is very uncommon in captivity. They CAN reach weights of 300+pounds but again, that is very rare in captivity. Males are generally smaller than females.
We had one that was 6 years old, 16 feet long and just over 100 pounds. Our largest was a male that was 17 feet long and close to 200 pounds.
They can live 20-30 years with proper care.
BIG and LONG
Well, The Albino Burmese Pythons start out life as bright orange and yellow on a white background color. As they mature, they become and pastel yellow color. The Albino Burmese was one of the first "investment" reptiles and has now become very affordable to acquire as a pet. These snakes will grow very large, but generally have very gentle and deliberate temperaments. The Burmese python is one of the largest of all snakes, growing up to 25 feet and weighing up to 400 pounds. A Burmese Python at Serpent Safari Park in Gurnee, Illinois, USA holds the record for heaviest living snake. As of 2005, it weights of 182.76 kg (403 lb) at a length of 8.23 m (27 ft). It is also very important, that Burmese python is the largest subspecies of the Indian Python and one of the 6 biggest snakes in the world.
Good luck and take care :)
Burmese can grow to lengths of 20 feet, and live upwards of 20 years.
Don't believe anyone who tells you that he will "only grow as large as their enclosure".
3-20feet long it depends what kind of python
they do get big and heavy but a 25 foot 400 pound burm is rare, i would say they will average around 16 feet males are usually smaller.
They can grow to 18 feet,and can live 30 to 40 years in captivity. Just keep him or her well fed.
Answers:
You can expect it to get alot bigger. Most burmese in captivity will top out at 17-18 feet. Although, it is possible that it can get larger than that. They can reach lengths of 25+ feet, but that is very uncommon in captivity. They CAN reach weights of 300+pounds but again, that is very rare in captivity. Males are generally smaller than females.
We had one that was 6 years old, 16 feet long and just over 100 pounds. Our largest was a male that was 17 feet long and close to 200 pounds.
They can live 20-30 years with proper care.
BIG and LONG
Well, The Albino Burmese Pythons start out life as bright orange and yellow on a white background color. As they mature, they become and pastel yellow color. The Albino Burmese was one of the first "investment" reptiles and has now become very affordable to acquire as a pet. These snakes will grow very large, but generally have very gentle and deliberate temperaments. The Burmese python is one of the largest of all snakes, growing up to 25 feet and weighing up to 400 pounds. A Burmese Python at Serpent Safari Park in Gurnee, Illinois, USA holds the record for heaviest living snake. As of 2005, it weights of 182.76 kg (403 lb) at a length of 8.23 m (27 ft). It is also very important, that Burmese python is the largest subspecies of the Indian Python and one of the 6 biggest snakes in the world.
Good luck and take care :)
Burmese can grow to lengths of 20 feet, and live upwards of 20 years.
Don't believe anyone who tells you that he will "only grow as large as their enclosure".
3-20feet long it depends what kind of python
they do get big and heavy but a 25 foot 400 pound burm is rare, i would say they will average around 16 feet males are usually smaller.
They can grow to 18 feet,and can live 30 to 40 years in captivity. Just keep him or her well fed.
How are amphibians different from reptiles?
Be complete.
Answers:
An amphibian is a member of the family Amphibia (which means double life). They are characterized by the ability to live on land and in the water. This family includes newts, frogs, toads, and salamanders..they are cold-blooded (ectothermic) vertebrates with four legs. They have eggs that are not amniotic, so they have to lay their eggs in water. Although most species eventually live on the land, many species do not stay on land, such as the salamander which requires wet/moist skin to live. Reptiles are also cold-blooded but they lay amniotic eggs (aka the eggs have a shell that protects the embryo inside a fluid sac. They do not require a period of water-life but many can utilize water, such as sea snakes and other water-hunting animals like the alligator and crocodile. Both are closely related, the study of both families is referred to as Herpetology. There are some great general texts under that heading.
amphibians are able to walk on land and swim in water
reptiles cant
well one way is that amphibians are born in the water and then come onto land when they are older. Frog eggs-tadpole-adult and reptile eggs are laid on land.
amphibians start life in water and end it on land (they have gills when they hatch and develope lungs as they get older), reptiles live on land thier entire lives (they breath air through lungs, but a few species such as the marine iguana, and sea crate live in water but they still have lungs and will come on land) also amphibians are soft smooth skined, reptiles have rough scally skin.
MJ, that is not completly correct as there are iguanas that go into the water and swim to eat and there are see snakes that are still reptiles even though they spend there whole lives in water. Im sure this was an over site on your part though.
Answers:
An amphibian is a member of the family Amphibia (which means double life). They are characterized by the ability to live on land and in the water. This family includes newts, frogs, toads, and salamanders..they are cold-blooded (ectothermic) vertebrates with four legs. They have eggs that are not amniotic, so they have to lay their eggs in water. Although most species eventually live on the land, many species do not stay on land, such as the salamander which requires wet/moist skin to live. Reptiles are also cold-blooded but they lay amniotic eggs (aka the eggs have a shell that protects the embryo inside a fluid sac. They do not require a period of water-life but many can utilize water, such as sea snakes and other water-hunting animals like the alligator and crocodile. Both are closely related, the study of both families is referred to as Herpetology. There are some great general texts under that heading.
amphibians are able to walk on land and swim in water
reptiles cant
well one way is that amphibians are born in the water and then come onto land when they are older. Frog eggs-tadpole-adult and reptile eggs are laid on land.
amphibians start life in water and end it on land (they have gills when they hatch and develope lungs as they get older), reptiles live on land thier entire lives (they breath air through lungs, but a few species such as the marine iguana, and sea crate live in water but they still have lungs and will come on land) also amphibians are soft smooth skined, reptiles have rough scally skin.
MJ, that is not completly correct as there are iguanas that go into the water and swim to eat and there are see snakes that are still reptiles even though they spend there whole lives in water. Im sure this was an over site on your part though.
How old does a turtle get?
Answers:
It depends on the quality of their life. If they are healthy and well mantained then pond turtles will live 50 years (sliders, maps, etc), seas will live over 200 and tortoises usually live 100+ years. 4 years, as someone else has said, is highly incorrect. They can die prematurely if not taken care of correctly in captivity and if they are killed in the wild but no turtle's actual life expectancy is under 20 years. Period.
idk but mine is maybe almost 1 or 2 years old and its not that big.i love 2 look at it once in a while and see the size of it.i some times learn something new every time i look at it
Let me let you in on a little secret, most of the world still doesn't know about yet. There's this brand new web site and its a search engine, just like all the other search engines but its even better for some reason. Its called GOOGLE and people go there and type in questions such as yours and they call it GOOGLING it. So for an accurate answer why don't you GOOGLE it for ya damn self.
it depends what species. some live only 4 years, while others can live to more than 40. some tortoise species live about 100 years.
How do you tame a snake?
How do you tame a California King Snake?
Answers:
I have to say, that you can not really tame a snake. You can only get it to get use to handling.
Hello, snakes don't really train but with holding they tolerate people, just can't hold them tight, let them move around..and no handling for some 24 hours after eating or when they go into shed mode - their eyes cloud...I do hope this is also a captive bred, reptile store bought snake ...best %26 healthiest, mellower then wild caughts..which no one should do or keep as a pet..wild reptiles .. can carry diseases they are immune too but you, nor your family or other pets will be immune %26 can get very ill as well ...Take Care :)
If the snake is wild caught, please release it. If you got it at a pet shop, and it was captive bred, just gently handle it for a few seconds at a time till it gets used to being handled. Don't make sudden movements and don'tbe afraid of it biting, if it bites just stay calm, it really won't hurt, I've had larger snakes, Boa Consrtictors bite me and several other species of snake bite me.
Answers:
I have to say, that you can not really tame a snake. You can only get it to get use to handling.
Hello, snakes don't really train but with holding they tolerate people, just can't hold them tight, let them move around..and no handling for some 24 hours after eating or when they go into shed mode - their eyes cloud...I do hope this is also a captive bred, reptile store bought snake ...best %26 healthiest, mellower then wild caughts..which no one should do or keep as a pet..wild reptiles .. can carry diseases they are immune too but you, nor your family or other pets will be immune %26 can get very ill as well ...Take Care :)
If the snake is wild caught, please release it. If you got it at a pet shop, and it was captive bred, just gently handle it for a few seconds at a time till it gets used to being handled. Don't make sudden movements and don'tbe afraid of it biting, if it bites just stay calm, it really won't hurt, I've had larger snakes, Boa Consrtictors bite me and several other species of snake bite me.
Housing baby sliders with adult sliders?
I have in my pond 2 adult female sliders. I was wondering if it was okay to add my baby slider(2 inches) as well. Would there be a problem? I know other animal species will kill younger ones of there own kind, so I don't want to do it until I'm sure it'll be okay.
Answers:
This is not a good idea yet. Turtles are very dominant creatures by nature. There's a chance that the bigger ones will harass the smaller one, not let it eat (which leads to under-development), possibly start fights and quite possibly kill it. Once your baby reaches about 7 or 8 inches then it should be fine (full grown females are 12" in diameter) because it will be big enough to hold it's own against them. Even adding the now baby when it's bigger still holds possible problems. As I've stated, turtles are dominant and territorial and because it'd be a new turtle in their home they may still have the risks listed above. This may not happen when the turtles bigger but it really depends on the turtle it's self. There's always a chance of there being a problem when putting two turtles together that haven't always been. This can also go the other way, however, and the "baby" would take over the pond and be dominant and agressive of the older turtles. I hope you have a good sized pond (the chance of three females, holy cow, I have 1 female in a 180 gallon tank). Anyways, bottom line, I'd wait.
If they are about the same size, it won't be a problem..TC %26 Peace :)
As long as each animal has plenty of room, turtles are not overly territorial or aggressive so it should be fine.
(I am hoping that by 'pond' you mean something nice and big!)
pretty sure it's not a problem.
Answers:
This is not a good idea yet. Turtles are very dominant creatures by nature. There's a chance that the bigger ones will harass the smaller one, not let it eat (which leads to under-development), possibly start fights and quite possibly kill it. Once your baby reaches about 7 or 8 inches then it should be fine (full grown females are 12" in diameter) because it will be big enough to hold it's own against them. Even adding the now baby when it's bigger still holds possible problems. As I've stated, turtles are dominant and territorial and because it'd be a new turtle in their home they may still have the risks listed above. This may not happen when the turtles bigger but it really depends on the turtle it's self. There's always a chance of there being a problem when putting two turtles together that haven't always been. This can also go the other way, however, and the "baby" would take over the pond and be dominant and agressive of the older turtles. I hope you have a good sized pond (the chance of three females, holy cow, I have 1 female in a 180 gallon tank). Anyways, bottom line, I'd wait.
If they are about the same size, it won't be a problem..TC %26 Peace :)
As long as each animal has plenty of room, turtles are not overly territorial or aggressive so it should be fine.
(I am hoping that by 'pond' you mean something nice and big!)
pretty sure it's not a problem.
Hiding places for water dragon?
a couple of weeks ago i moved around my 1 year old dragons viv. She spent a lot of the time hiding and became a bit mopre defensive. I added and took away some bits yeasterday with very few hiding places especially when she gets bigger.
Is this mean because she seems so much happier?
Answers:
Every time you move the viv the dragon will be upset and nervous for a wile. This is typical behaviour and nothing to be worried about. If she is starting to spend more time out in the open then she is getting more used to the new environment.
If she likes hiding, yes - it was mean to remove her hiding places.
I find it somewhat unusual for your cwd to be hiding period. I have had 4 in my days and water was the only place they really went to hide and that was for a short period of time. I have also had contact with numerous cwd's and have never heard of them hiding inside or under anything. mine have ample places such as under the basking rock around the base of my climbing structure etc. Although this doesn't meen yours shouldn't its just it would be unusual in my eyes. I say this to prepare you for this question. do you have a poster or picture something that may be scaring your cwd and it feels the need to be watchfull? I have a friend who had 4 firebellies they would always be hudled in one corner in the water behind the filter. after rearranging his room he removed a color picture of a boy holding a huge pacman frog. after that the firebellies began exploring their 50 gallon tank and enjoying life. just something to check out. but feel free to mix up the tank it really should not affect them much even from the pet store to your house maybe 2-3 days of confusion tops.
well she may be hiding because her habitat is changing too much. so i say you maintain a steady habitat for about 2 weeks and eventually she will come out of her shell. also if you want a good idea of something for her get a hubba hut. i have one and mine used to sleep in it until he got bigger. goo luck! enjoy ur dragons!
Is this mean because she seems so much happier?
Answers:
Every time you move the viv the dragon will be upset and nervous for a wile. This is typical behaviour and nothing to be worried about. If she is starting to spend more time out in the open then she is getting more used to the new environment.
If she likes hiding, yes - it was mean to remove her hiding places.
I find it somewhat unusual for your cwd to be hiding period. I have had 4 in my days and water was the only place they really went to hide and that was for a short period of time. I have also had contact with numerous cwd's and have never heard of them hiding inside or under anything. mine have ample places such as under the basking rock around the base of my climbing structure etc. Although this doesn't meen yours shouldn't its just it would be unusual in my eyes. I say this to prepare you for this question. do you have a poster or picture something that may be scaring your cwd and it feels the need to be watchfull? I have a friend who had 4 firebellies they would always be hudled in one corner in the water behind the filter. after rearranging his room he removed a color picture of a boy holding a huge pacman frog. after that the firebellies began exploring their 50 gallon tank and enjoying life. just something to check out. but feel free to mix up the tank it really should not affect them much even from the pet store to your house maybe 2-3 days of confusion tops.
well she may be hiding because her habitat is changing too much. so i say you maintain a steady habitat for about 2 weeks and eventually she will come out of her shell. also if you want a good idea of something for her get a hubba hut. i have one and mine used to sleep in it until he got bigger. goo luck! enjoy ur dragons!
Hi. I found a tiny turtle inside my pond and I need help identifying it.?
It was the at the bottom of my pond and surprisingly my 2 10" long Red eared sliders did not bother it. Now I am keeping it in a small container. It has a define ridge in the middle of the shell. And a thick single yellow line also running along the top shell. The shell is a very dark green or black. The front legs are larger in size, compared to the hind ones. I was thinking that it may be a striped mud turtle but they have 3 yellow lines instead of one. The bottom shell is yellow with black markings and I definitely see no hinges. It also has a noticeable underbite, but I think is due to injury or malformation, in any case it eats well and it is used to being handled alreasy. If you need me to forward any pictures, let me know. Help, please?
Answers:
give the pic to me ima turtle pro plz its kyle_huang_email@yahoo.com
can you send me a picture
Ice_Hockey_9941@yahoo.com
Hello..no idea what kind it is .. sounds like it made itself @ home in your pond %26 liked it...do you have wild turtles in your area to have an idea where it came from maybe...or did a neighbor lose their turtle...am not sure it's anything to worry about ... if it is a wild species you might be able to take it back to where they usually live, chances are it could come back tho..LOL ..Take Care :)
are u sure its not a snapping turtle? they love water and they are very aggressive when they get older. they can bite a finger off. seriously. I would not mess with it until you properly identify it. Maybe post some pics so we can see
http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/im...
http://www.snakesandfrogs.com/scra/turtl...
it could very well be a painted turtle. Thats what Mine is and your description sounds very similar to my turtle.
because of the single yellow stripe i would say a southern painted turtle. that's the only one that i know of that has a single yellow stripe down its back.
http://www.austinsturtlepage.com/care/cs...
I've had a turtle that sounds like exactly like this, can you send a picture? purely_numb_12.2007@yahoo.com
Answers:
give the pic to me ima turtle pro plz its kyle_huang_email@yahoo.com
can you send me a picture
Ice_Hockey_9941@yahoo.com
Hello..no idea what kind it is .. sounds like it made itself @ home in your pond %26 liked it...do you have wild turtles in your area to have an idea where it came from maybe...or did a neighbor lose their turtle...am not sure it's anything to worry about ... if it is a wild species you might be able to take it back to where they usually live, chances are it could come back tho..LOL ..Take Care :)
are u sure its not a snapping turtle? they love water and they are very aggressive when they get older. they can bite a finger off. seriously. I would not mess with it until you properly identify it. Maybe post some pics so we can see
http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/im...
http://www.snakesandfrogs.com/scra/turtl...
it could very well be a painted turtle. Thats what Mine is and your description sounds very similar to my turtle.
because of the single yellow stripe i would say a southern painted turtle. that's the only one that i know of that has a single yellow stripe down its back.
http://www.austinsturtlepage.com/care/cs...
I've had a turtle that sounds like exactly like this, can you send a picture? purely_numb_12.2007@yahoo.com
Hi, have just bought a horsefield tortoise all help appreciated?
hi, i have researched as best as i can but any advice from people will be appreciated on all aspects of care
thanks
Answers:
Hello..where did you buy him from..a good reputable, reptile seller knows all the care it needs %26 tells you to..otherwise, here's a very good reputable reptile site that has all the know you will ever need about any reptile, turtle, snake..you name it ..Take Care :)
Don't overfeed on the protein. This can lead to shell deformaties.
There are plenty of people who will give you advice on
www.preloved.co.uk
just look under the tortoise categories
Asking that for this species is a guaranteed headache! The Russian is actually a bit tricky, and most keepers have difficulty keeping them alive for more than a few years.
Try the reputable info at these sites:
- http://www.russiantortoise.org
- http://www.tortoisetrust.org
make sure you have adequate heating at check the temps regularly as the tortoise needs the correct temp to get his body warm ,the warmer he is the more alert and active he/she will be .
i bought a book from the bookshop so i can always read up on things ,my vet also gave me a care sheet when i took her for a check up
thanks
Answers:
Hello..where did you buy him from..a good reputable, reptile seller knows all the care it needs %26 tells you to..otherwise, here's a very good reputable reptile site that has all the know you will ever need about any reptile, turtle, snake..you name it ..Take Care :)
Don't overfeed on the protein. This can lead to shell deformaties.
There are plenty of people who will give you advice on
www.preloved.co.uk
just look under the tortoise categories
Asking that for this species is a guaranteed headache! The Russian is actually a bit tricky, and most keepers have difficulty keeping them alive for more than a few years.
Try the reputable info at these sites:
- http://www.russiantortoise.org
- http://www.tortoisetrust.org
make sure you have adequate heating at check the temps regularly as the tortoise needs the correct temp to get his body warm ,the warmer he is the more alert and active he/she will be .
i bought a book from the bookshop so i can always read up on things ,my vet also gave me a care sheet when i took her for a check up
Hi there i was just wondering about my tortoise?
i am thinking of getting her insured,incase she ever needs anything major in the future (to help out ith the vet fees) has any one else thats got a tortoise done this if so which are the best companies? thanks
Answers:
Hello...best place to check for good critter insurance is with the Pro's - Vets or Professional Breeders or even the AKC %26 no offense ..for what the insurance %26 vet costs are, depending on what the true money value is - like Westminster type critters, etc...your often better off just buying a new pet or reptile, just for many they say "It's about the love" so if you have the money it's fine..but most insurance companies are in the biz to make money, they have all kinds of things they won't cover costs for %26 that's most often the most expensive time %26 when you need it most...Take Care
im not to sure but it would be a good idea because vet bills can get expensive
my sister has a tortoise he is very fussy he only eats cucumber and dandilions! He was in the garden one day and our dog bit a tiny bit off his shell but he's alrite i dont know what can be done to help a tortoises shell but the legs could be helped. They are quite rare so I would probably get him/her insured yes.
Do you have a good tortoise vet? Then the answer is whatever coverage they take.
Don't have a good tortoise vet? Then what good would coverage do?
I tried to insure mine and was told no one will do it, but i think pet plan has now started to insure exotics. If not you could always just put some money away each week and use that in case the worst should happen. good on you for being a responsible pet owner and getting insurance!
http://www.pet--insure.co.uk/
Answers:
Hello...best place to check for good critter insurance is with the Pro's - Vets or Professional Breeders or even the AKC %26 no offense ..for what the insurance %26 vet costs are, depending on what the true money value is - like Westminster type critters, etc...your often better off just buying a new pet or reptile, just for many they say "It's about the love" so if you have the money it's fine..but most insurance companies are in the biz to make money, they have all kinds of things they won't cover costs for %26 that's most often the most expensive time %26 when you need it most...Take Care
im not to sure but it would be a good idea because vet bills can get expensive
my sister has a tortoise he is very fussy he only eats cucumber and dandilions! He was in the garden one day and our dog bit a tiny bit off his shell but he's alrite i dont know what can be done to help a tortoises shell but the legs could be helped. They are quite rare so I would probably get him/her insured yes.
Do you have a good tortoise vet? Then the answer is whatever coverage they take.
Don't have a good tortoise vet? Then what good would coverage do?
I tried to insure mine and was told no one will do it, but i think pet plan has now started to insure exotics. If not you could always just put some money away each week and use that in case the worst should happen. good on you for being a responsible pet owner and getting insurance!
http://www.pet--insure.co.uk/
Hi how do u know when a bearded dragon is ill??
hi i bought a bearded dragon 2months ago. he usto b out and about know he seem to stay in his house he got in his viv hes not nasty when i get him out and he seems to b eating but he not that active???thanxs
Answers:
We first off you should check the cage temperature should range from 75 to 105, 105 being the hottest under the basking light: and the coldest at the other end of the tank. This allows the baby to escape the heat when it鈥檚 to hot. Also keep the night red light on at night, babies need a night-time temperature of around 70-75. I would take the house out and replace with a place he can be perched at. Babies love to climb and feel most safe when their above the ground. That should solve the problem. Another thing to think about is the diet and proper water amounts. Babies should have 10-12 pinheads daily with 2-3 full body sprays. Keep water readily available and easy to see. Change up the diet every other day or so, 2 days crickets and 1 day veggies ect.. Make sure that the crickets and veggies are dust with vitamins. Back to the light if should be a UV/ bulb a least 100watts for his size. He should be able to come within 6-8 inches of the bulb. He shouldn鈥檛 be sick at that age depending on the care you鈥檙e giving him. Spraying him should bring him back around. It sounds like it me be to hot in or to cold in the cage. Try to keep the temperatures I mentioned and he should become more active. Remember one end hot the other slightly colder and a place to bask. Good luck if the problem seems to continue ask another question or contact me and ill resolve the problem
Health problems of Bearded Dragons:
http://www.geocities.com/rainforest/vine...
When he acts in a way that is no normal for him. or he has an abnormal physical appearance
I don't have a specific answer for you but I'm going to a reptile show this weekend and if you look on this website there are numerous links for vendors of Bearded Dragons and they might be able to help you. I know my bearded isn't very active but he runs around like mad when he's chasing crickets.
http://www.northernberksreptileshow.com/...
Your temperatures need to be checked.
105F in the hot spot is needed to help your dragon digest it's meals. Proper UVB light is needed for utilizing it's nutrients.
Bearded dragons are light sensitive. No lights at night. That can disturb the sleeping pattern. Think about nature. Do they have lights on at night? As long as your temperatures don't fall under 65F you are fine. It is normal for temperatures to fall at night, and healthy.
Make sure you have a digital probe thermometer to accurately measure your temperatures. You can even find them cheap.
I have a beared dragon and this did happen with mine. She would just lay there all day and all night not doing anything but eating. I think it was just a phase but this is how I pulled her out of it. A: put in a black heat light at night. B: Feed it vegtables and fruits. C: Make sure it is full. D: I had thought mine was just bored so I would hold her every day and that also seemed to help. Good luck.
Answers:
We first off you should check the cage temperature should range from 75 to 105, 105 being the hottest under the basking light: and the coldest at the other end of the tank. This allows the baby to escape the heat when it鈥檚 to hot. Also keep the night red light on at night, babies need a night-time temperature of around 70-75. I would take the house out and replace with a place he can be perched at. Babies love to climb and feel most safe when their above the ground. That should solve the problem. Another thing to think about is the diet and proper water amounts. Babies should have 10-12 pinheads daily with 2-3 full body sprays. Keep water readily available and easy to see. Change up the diet every other day or so, 2 days crickets and 1 day veggies ect.. Make sure that the crickets and veggies are dust with vitamins. Back to the light if should be a UV/ bulb a least 100watts for his size. He should be able to come within 6-8 inches of the bulb. He shouldn鈥檛 be sick at that age depending on the care you鈥檙e giving him. Spraying him should bring him back around. It sounds like it me be to hot in or to cold in the cage. Try to keep the temperatures I mentioned and he should become more active. Remember one end hot the other slightly colder and a place to bask. Good luck if the problem seems to continue ask another question or contact me and ill resolve the problem
Health problems of Bearded Dragons:
http://www.geocities.com/rainforest/vine...
When he acts in a way that is no normal for him. or he has an abnormal physical appearance
I don't have a specific answer for you but I'm going to a reptile show this weekend and if you look on this website there are numerous links for vendors of Bearded Dragons and they might be able to help you. I know my bearded isn't very active but he runs around like mad when he's chasing crickets.
http://www.northernberksreptileshow.com/...
Your temperatures need to be checked.
105F in the hot spot is needed to help your dragon digest it's meals. Proper UVB light is needed for utilizing it's nutrients.
Bearded dragons are light sensitive. No lights at night. That can disturb the sleeping pattern. Think about nature. Do they have lights on at night? As long as your temperatures don't fall under 65F you are fine. It is normal for temperatures to fall at night, and healthy.
Make sure you have a digital probe thermometer to accurately measure your temperatures. You can even find them cheap.
I have a beared dragon and this did happen with mine. She would just lay there all day and all night not doing anything but eating. I think it was just a phase but this is how I pulled her out of it. A: put in a black heat light at night. B: Feed it vegtables and fruits. C: Make sure it is full. D: I had thought mine was just bored so I would hold her every day and that also seemed to help. Good luck.
Hey I am really interested in African Side necked turtles, I had some several years ago but had to get rid of?
had to get rid of them on account of moving, looking for more information on them and any help with finding sites on them thank you for your time.
Answers:
Turtle experts (any questions they can help) http://www.allexperts.com/el/3543-9/turt...
Site with info
http://animal-world.com/encyclo/reptiles...
Sorry I don't know much about this turtle so I don't have any personal suggestions. Hope I helped, good luck!
Answers:
Turtle experts (any questions they can help) http://www.allexperts.com/el/3543-9/turt...
Site with info
http://animal-world.com/encyclo/reptiles...
Sorry I don't know much about this turtle so I don't have any personal suggestions. Hope I helped, good luck!
Hermit crabs salt watter??...?
i know hermit crabs need salt watter but why?
and wheres the best place get it?
thanks
Answers:
Most hermit crabs that you buy in the pet store are fresh water crabs and do not require salt water. And by the way you make salt water not buy it. You have to buy special salt from the pet store though
Check out this web sight: http://www.hermit-crabs.com/care.html...
There are minerals and such in the salt water that they need, some types need it more then others, like strawberries.
I don't think you can buy it anywhere but it is very easy to make. First start with de chlorinated water and add the right about of salt, no table salt and even some salts made for crabs aren't good. I like Oceanic brand, it tells you how much to use on the package.
the only reason they hermit crabs need salt water is bathe they will drink it also but it helps with there exoskeleton and makes them healthy, but you buy the stuff to make there saltwater at any pet store that sells hermit crabs abd hermiot crab supplies. I keep some in my crabitat at all times so they can bathe whem they want to plus i bathe mine in saltwater once every two weeks to once a month. keeps them clean and is good fro their gills to help keep them moist and healthey
Hermit crabs evolved living near the ocean. While land hermit crabs live on land, they store some water in their shells to keep their bodies moist. They need salt water both to drink and to create the right osmotic balance in their shell. I would guess that if they did not have the right balance of salt and fresh water, too much water would pass through their exoskeleton and into their cells which could lead to cell damage.
Salt can be purchased at most major pet stores or fish stores. The kind you want is the stuff used in saltwater aquariums. Some of the more common brands are Oceanic and Instant Ocean. There will be directions on the bag if you want to mix the entire thing, but if you want to do smaller batches, you can visit the link below for figuring out the right amount to use.
and wheres the best place get it?
thanks
Answers:
Most hermit crabs that you buy in the pet store are fresh water crabs and do not require salt water. And by the way you make salt water not buy it. You have to buy special salt from the pet store though
Check out this web sight: http://www.hermit-crabs.com/care.html...
There are minerals and such in the salt water that they need, some types need it more then others, like strawberries.
I don't think you can buy it anywhere but it is very easy to make. First start with de chlorinated water and add the right about of salt, no table salt and even some salts made for crabs aren't good. I like Oceanic brand, it tells you how much to use on the package.
the only reason they hermit crabs need salt water is bathe they will drink it also but it helps with there exoskeleton and makes them healthy, but you buy the stuff to make there saltwater at any pet store that sells hermit crabs abd hermiot crab supplies. I keep some in my crabitat at all times so they can bathe whem they want to plus i bathe mine in saltwater once every two weeks to once a month. keeps them clean and is good fro their gills to help keep them moist and healthey
Hermit crabs evolved living near the ocean. While land hermit crabs live on land, they store some water in their shells to keep their bodies moist. They need salt water both to drink and to create the right osmotic balance in their shell. I would guess that if they did not have the right balance of salt and fresh water, too much water would pass through their exoskeleton and into their cells which could lead to cell damage.
Salt can be purchased at most major pet stores or fish stores. The kind you want is the stuff used in saltwater aquariums. Some of the more common brands are Oceanic and Instant Ocean. There will be directions on the bag if you want to mix the entire thing, but if you want to do smaller batches, you can visit the link below for figuring out the right amount to use.
HELPP!! with a baby red-ear slider...!!?
My baby ( i just got her 4 days ago) red ear sliders shell is soft, is it due to lack of calcium or b/c she still a baby??? She also dosnt eat.! i been trying to look for all the info on the turtle as possible..! soo some one please help me. some one gave her to me for my bday and i really want to keep her i just need some info on her!!! thankssssss
Answers:
My real small ones have always had a slightly soft shell when they were little.
Call a pet store that sells turtles and ask their opinion on how and what to feed her and how to setup her living area. They should be able to help. Good luck.
needs calcium block in water. they also need heat, filtration and a u.v light is recommended. if you bought it at a store it was sick there because it takes a while to develop a soft shell. i work at a reptile store.
It's pretty normal for babys to have soft shells so unless it's extremely soft then you're fine. Just be sure that she does have enough calcium AND UVB lighting. With no UVB lighting, she's as good as dead as this slowly poisons them and makes it impossible to synthesize calcium and produce vitamin d3. Just make sure her habitat is all ok and you have nothing to worry about.
The not eating thing is because she's in a new place. It sometimes takes turtles about 2 weeks to get adjusted. You might also not be feeding her correctly. They need pelet food made specifically for baby aquatic turtles and that's about it at this age.
Ryan's info looked pretty good (although I honestly couldn't get through all that stuff) but the bottom line is, why didn't you check this out before you bought it?
This turtle will be tough to keep alive, at this point.
I have baby red ears as well and it was difficult to get them to eat at first as well so i read on the internet that the more you play with them the more they like you and want you attention so i played with mine alot until i could get it to be ok with coming out of the shell areound me. Then I read they like to eat shrimp and it is better fot them so i went to wal-mart and bought some dried out baby shrimp (bout 3 dollars)food and it started to eat b/c it wasnt as stressed. Now she eats from my hand and is very happy when i come home. Also for the shell problem, i would buy a chicken heat lamp b/c it has uv rays in it that the turtle needs to be able to bask under.
good luck!
Answers:
My real small ones have always had a slightly soft shell when they were little.
Call a pet store that sells turtles and ask their opinion on how and what to feed her and how to setup her living area. They should be able to help. Good luck.
needs calcium block in water. they also need heat, filtration and a u.v light is recommended. if you bought it at a store it was sick there because it takes a while to develop a soft shell. i work at a reptile store.
It's pretty normal for babys to have soft shells so unless it's extremely soft then you're fine. Just be sure that she does have enough calcium AND UVB lighting. With no UVB lighting, she's as good as dead as this slowly poisons them and makes it impossible to synthesize calcium and produce vitamin d3. Just make sure her habitat is all ok and you have nothing to worry about.
The not eating thing is because she's in a new place. It sometimes takes turtles about 2 weeks to get adjusted. You might also not be feeding her correctly. They need pelet food made specifically for baby aquatic turtles and that's about it at this age.
Ryan's info looked pretty good (although I honestly couldn't get through all that stuff) but the bottom line is, why didn't you check this out before you bought it?
This turtle will be tough to keep alive, at this point.
I have baby red ears as well and it was difficult to get them to eat at first as well so i read on the internet that the more you play with them the more they like you and want you attention so i played with mine alot until i could get it to be ok with coming out of the shell areound me. Then I read they like to eat shrimp and it is better fot them so i went to wal-mart and bought some dried out baby shrimp (bout 3 dollars)food and it started to eat b/c it wasnt as stressed. Now she eats from my hand and is very happy when i come home. Also for the shell problem, i would buy a chicken heat lamp b/c it has uv rays in it that the turtle needs to be able to bask under.
good luck!
HELP!!!??? What would cause a Bearded Dragon's eye to swell up?
My Bearded Dragon is about 8 - 9 years old. He has been healthy and on a diet of dusted crickets and chopped veggies for years. Several days ago we noticed one of his eyes has a large swollen *pocket* for lack of a better word on the lower lid. He still makes attempts to open the eye, even though it is swollen in this area. He doesn't rub it or act distressed by it. He has been eating a little less, but otherwise seems no different. His other eye seems fine and the eye that is affected seems clear as far as I can tell without pressing on it. His tank is at about 85-88 degrees, he has proper reptile substrate, he has further heated spots he can make use of and nothing has changed in his routine. I have been feeding more greens since this happened, fearing a vitamin deficiency. The swollen area has not grown or gone away. Can someone help me please???
Answers:
It could be one of several things. It sounds a lot like an abscess, which is a small area filled with pus and debris. This would need to be drained by a professional. If it seems tender, soft, and fluid-y when touched, its probably an abscess. The best course of action would be to take the dragon to a veterinarian to have him checked out.
He is probably blind . You should speak to a vet or get medical help
Hello..could be a few things, something in his eye ( substrate tho you say it's right, maybe it is maybe not beings you didn't say what it was ) tumor, most anything, reptile vets are hard to find, if you have a good reptile store near you..that is your best bet for care or info as where a reptile vet is %26 beardies need meat, not just vege's ...Take Care :)
call 911,he's been abuse
Well the other gentleman is right, it is possible to be an abscess in which case you should take the little guy to the vet to make sure its that and not possibly something even worse. Also a beardie's habitat needs to be between 95 and 110 degrees so you should also raise the basking temperature to such.
Stop being cheap. If you care for him at all, you will get him into a vet. Do you want him to lose his eye? Live with blindness on one side? What is the matter with you?
Are you aware that it is his RIGHT by law to receive proper medical care and that by denying it you are committing abuse?
Stop asking unqualified strangers on the internet who have never even seen him, let alone examined him, and get going!
Answers:
It could be one of several things. It sounds a lot like an abscess, which is a small area filled with pus and debris. This would need to be drained by a professional. If it seems tender, soft, and fluid-y when touched, its probably an abscess. The best course of action would be to take the dragon to a veterinarian to have him checked out.
He is probably blind . You should speak to a vet or get medical help
Hello..could be a few things, something in his eye ( substrate tho you say it's right, maybe it is maybe not beings you didn't say what it was ) tumor, most anything, reptile vets are hard to find, if you have a good reptile store near you..that is your best bet for care or info as where a reptile vet is %26 beardies need meat, not just vege's ...Take Care :)
call 911,he's been abuse
Well the other gentleman is right, it is possible to be an abscess in which case you should take the little guy to the vet to make sure its that and not possibly something even worse. Also a beardie's habitat needs to be between 95 and 110 degrees so you should also raise the basking temperature to such.
Stop being cheap. If you care for him at all, you will get him into a vet. Do you want him to lose his eye? Live with blindness on one side? What is the matter with you?
Are you aware that it is his RIGHT by law to receive proper medical care and that by denying it you are committing abuse?
Stop asking unqualified strangers on the internet who have never even seen him, let alone examined him, and get going!
Help! Is my turtle okay?
I was holding my turtle and he kinda jerked and I dropped him by accident. He hit the side of my dresser table, but not that hard. Although he's small so it he might have had more of an impact. Anyway, e wouldnt shut his mouth or move. Now he's still very much in shock, moving very little and barely opening his eyes.Im really scared. Is he going to be okay or what, is he just in shock? What can I do???! thanks
Answers:
aww poor little guy. Turtles are strong shelled (hee hee) he is most likely going to be ok. How far up did he drop from? Just leave him be handling will just get him more freaked out. He is most likely just scared. Almost into a petrified shock. Give him his favorite treat and if you are really concerened call the vet and give them more details. Keep an eye on him and keep us updated. I hope he is ok.
http://www.allexperts.com/el/3543-9/turt...
They should be able to help out. It takes at the most 3 days for a reply and its a safe and secure site. No viruses spam or anything. I ask questions there all the time. Good luck.
Well he was probably very shocked, but I don't think that he will be in any danger. Just keep an eye on him in case he starts to not eat or something. He should be back to normal by tomorrow but if not make an appointment with your vet.
Hi, I am one of the 'experts' Yexelan suggests on www.allexperts.com (Thanks for the plug!)
Turtles are a lot like eggs. They can take a ton of some kinds of abuse, but other kinds- sometimes seemingly minor incidents- can cause big problems.
Keeping his mouth open worries me- that sounds like skeletal or nerve damage. It MAY just be shock, but if it does not go away by tomorrow, I'd see a vet.
Answers:
aww poor little guy. Turtles are strong shelled (hee hee) he is most likely going to be ok. How far up did he drop from? Just leave him be handling will just get him more freaked out. He is most likely just scared. Almost into a petrified shock. Give him his favorite treat and if you are really concerened call the vet and give them more details. Keep an eye on him and keep us updated. I hope he is ok.
http://www.allexperts.com/el/3543-9/turt...
They should be able to help out. It takes at the most 3 days for a reply and its a safe and secure site. No viruses spam or anything. I ask questions there all the time. Good luck.
Well he was probably very shocked, but I don't think that he will be in any danger. Just keep an eye on him in case he starts to not eat or something. He should be back to normal by tomorrow but if not make an appointment with your vet.
Hi, I am one of the 'experts' Yexelan suggests on www.allexperts.com (Thanks for the plug!)
Turtles are a lot like eggs. They can take a ton of some kinds of abuse, but other kinds- sometimes seemingly minor incidents- can cause big problems.
Keeping his mouth open worries me- that sounds like skeletal or nerve damage. It MAY just be shock, but if it does not go away by tomorrow, I'd see a vet.
Help! I have a dehydrated lizard who is not drinking/eating?
My lizard (leopard gecko) got infected with mites. Hence, I brought it to the veterinarian. The vet injected Charlie with an antibiotic to kill the mites. She was very lethargic after that and not eating (before she had a voracious appetite). Anyhow, now her skin is very dry and lost its elasticity. Also, I am trying to offer Charlie water in an eyedropper and she is not licking that up either. I read the guidelines on how to open a lizard's mouth but I can't open its mouth--there's no dewlap or I can't find it to depress it to open the mouth! I'm concerned that she's slowly dying. Any advice?
Answers:
Don't panic. Leopard geckos are a desert lizard and it will take awhile before she actually dies of dehydration. Getting her to take water orally is the first step. If you pinch the corners of the mouth and try to get a fingernail or something flat or small in eventually she will open her mouth and you can get water in there. Even better would be some unflavored pedialyte or some water with electrodize, a reptile supplement in it that stimulates appetite. Both of these have electrolytes that will make her more energetic and help her want to eat. If this doesn't work by tomorrow go and ask your vet for an injection of fluids. Most vets will give this to you as it is non medicinal. It will just be like saline and electrolytes, I have to use saline for my bearded dragon sometimes because she doesn't like water or her veggies all the time. You can pinch the skin between her shoulder blades and insert the needle, or ask your vet to do it, and give her some fluids under the skin that her body will absorb. Try the mouth first though, it should open if you keep trying.
You need to call an emergency veterniarian right away. They might be able to tell you how to get the water in his mouth or have you bring him in to treat him for dehydration.
To open the mouth gently pinch the corners and it should open, if not stick your fingers and try and gently pry it open. As for fluids, try pedialyte, it will hydrate the lizard faster than water, and its important to get the animal hydrated as soon as possible.
that happened to my hamster once but my dad told me to force him to drink.
Hello...hopefully you're misting the cage twice daily @ least as well..many lizards prefer licking water droplets instead out of a bowl...seems there's also other advice you can follow to hydrate as well ...but be very careful about prying a leopard gecko's mouth, as they are pretty fragile compared to larger lizards like beardies or iguana's...good luck :) %26 Take Care
Answers:
Don't panic. Leopard geckos are a desert lizard and it will take awhile before she actually dies of dehydration. Getting her to take water orally is the first step. If you pinch the corners of the mouth and try to get a fingernail or something flat or small in eventually she will open her mouth and you can get water in there. Even better would be some unflavored pedialyte or some water with electrodize, a reptile supplement in it that stimulates appetite. Both of these have electrolytes that will make her more energetic and help her want to eat. If this doesn't work by tomorrow go and ask your vet for an injection of fluids. Most vets will give this to you as it is non medicinal. It will just be like saline and electrolytes, I have to use saline for my bearded dragon sometimes because she doesn't like water or her veggies all the time. You can pinch the skin between her shoulder blades and insert the needle, or ask your vet to do it, and give her some fluids under the skin that her body will absorb. Try the mouth first though, it should open if you keep trying.
You need to call an emergency veterniarian right away. They might be able to tell you how to get the water in his mouth or have you bring him in to treat him for dehydration.
To open the mouth gently pinch the corners and it should open, if not stick your fingers and try and gently pry it open. As for fluids, try pedialyte, it will hydrate the lizard faster than water, and its important to get the animal hydrated as soon as possible.
that happened to my hamster once but my dad told me to force him to drink.
Hello...hopefully you're misting the cage twice daily @ least as well..many lizards prefer licking water droplets instead out of a bowl...seems there's also other advice you can follow to hydrate as well ...but be very careful about prying a leopard gecko's mouth, as they are pretty fragile compared to larger lizards like beardies or iguana's...good luck :) %26 Take Care
HELP! How do I keep snakes out of yard?
I have a Day Care and several children have seen a snake in the yard. One little 4 yr. old screamed for a half hour when she saw one. I am afraid this will hurt my business.
Answers:
One user has a good idea, try learning as much as you can about snakes yourself, and use this as an opportunity to educate the children. Childen fear things like snakes because they are TAUGHT to by largely-ignorant adults. People do not normally teach their kids to fear all dogs or cats, do they? Dogs and cats hurt and kill more people in the US than snakes to, though, so why teach kids to fear all snakes? You can MINIMIZE the chances of a snake coming onto the property by getting rid of as many places for them to hide, and by getting rid of things that attract their natural prey, which is usually rodents or small birds. Most snakes that come onto such property are non-venomous Ratsnakes, looking for a meal of bird eggs or mice and other rodents. It would be a good idea to find a locale person who is able to come catch and re-locate the snake if it shows up again, rather than killing it, which will be certain to traumatize some children and give a very wrong message to others, that if you're afraid of something/someone, just kill it(by the way, I reported both the people who advocated animal abuse by burning or weed-whacking a live animal, as advocating animal abuse is clearly against PetQnA.com policies).
What you DO NOT want to do is put out mothballs; these are HIGHLY toxic to children and pets, and children often mistake them for candy. Small children, of the age that you keep, don't usually follow the "two-second rule" when it comes to eating things off the ground. If you think that having a child spot a snake is bad for your business, how do you think having a child die from eating mothballs while in YOUR care would affect it? Far, far more children die from ingesting common household poisons than die from venomous snake bites, of that I can assure you! Mongooses are illegal as agricultural pests in the US, and snakes aren't the least bit perturbed by ferret smell; I've got both and I'd worry more about one of my big snakes eating a ferret than the other way around! There are no chemicals that are really effective at all in keeping snakes away, in spite of some claims and many old wives' tales.
Burn those bastartds!
buy a weed wacker ha jk
hire someone to take them out aminal controll maby
Buy a mongoose
They have a right to be there, use it as an educational tool instead of trying to control nature.
I don't know if this is true, but I heard years ago that you can sprinkle moth balls around the permiter. For many years I bought 3-4 boxes and sprinkled them around the permiter of my yard. Neither I nor the kids ever saw a snake. I don't know if that made the difference, but it's inexpensive. It can't hurt to try.
I dont know if it works, but Ive heard from several people that wind chimes keep them away! When I saw a rattlesnake in my back yard, I got some big windchimes, and havnt seen one since! Also they say that moth balls are good too, Ive put them around the edges of the house as well! If all else fails, get an exterminator or call animal control!
If you are in a wild area, you will not be able to keep snakes from occasionally wandering through. The wind chime thing is total BS, as snakes are deaf.
I agree with the poster that suggested you educate people about them, stop being afraid, and learn to live with them.
The snakes were there first!
moth balls
Deal with it. Snakes are part of that habitat and deserve it just as much as you do. Use that opportunity to educate your kids about snakes and nature as opposed to figuring out how to get rid of it.
The mothball idea is good. I recommend getting a field guide to snakes, in your area, and try to identify the kind of snake it is. Then, you can teach the kids about it. Maybe that will make them less afraid. Snakes are very misunderstood creatures and most of them are quite harmless.
Don't waste your time with mothballs. They don't work %26 can harm pets %26 the children. Keep your grass short, remove any debris that can be used as a hiding spot, %26 if possible, have someone that knows herps. come in %26 do a thorough sweep %26 search of the area. You may not find all the snakes in the area %26 as long as there are favorable conditions for them (food, shelter etc.) chances are that they'll hang around.
Answers:
One user has a good idea, try learning as much as you can about snakes yourself, and use this as an opportunity to educate the children. Childen fear things like snakes because they are TAUGHT to by largely-ignorant adults. People do not normally teach their kids to fear all dogs or cats, do they? Dogs and cats hurt and kill more people in the US than snakes to, though, so why teach kids to fear all snakes? You can MINIMIZE the chances of a snake coming onto the property by getting rid of as many places for them to hide, and by getting rid of things that attract their natural prey, which is usually rodents or small birds. Most snakes that come onto such property are non-venomous Ratsnakes, looking for a meal of bird eggs or mice and other rodents. It would be a good idea to find a locale person who is able to come catch and re-locate the snake if it shows up again, rather than killing it, which will be certain to traumatize some children and give a very wrong message to others, that if you're afraid of something/someone, just kill it(by the way, I reported both the people who advocated animal abuse by burning or weed-whacking a live animal, as advocating animal abuse is clearly against PetQnA.com policies).
What you DO NOT want to do is put out mothballs; these are HIGHLY toxic to children and pets, and children often mistake them for candy. Small children, of the age that you keep, don't usually follow the "two-second rule" when it comes to eating things off the ground. If you think that having a child spot a snake is bad for your business, how do you think having a child die from eating mothballs while in YOUR care would affect it? Far, far more children die from ingesting common household poisons than die from venomous snake bites, of that I can assure you! Mongooses are illegal as agricultural pests in the US, and snakes aren't the least bit perturbed by ferret smell; I've got both and I'd worry more about one of my big snakes eating a ferret than the other way around! There are no chemicals that are really effective at all in keeping snakes away, in spite of some claims and many old wives' tales.
Burn those bastartds!
buy a weed wacker ha jk
hire someone to take them out aminal controll maby
Buy a mongoose
They have a right to be there, use it as an educational tool instead of trying to control nature.
I don't know if this is true, but I heard years ago that you can sprinkle moth balls around the permiter. For many years I bought 3-4 boxes and sprinkled them around the permiter of my yard. Neither I nor the kids ever saw a snake. I don't know if that made the difference, but it's inexpensive. It can't hurt to try.
I dont know if it works, but Ive heard from several people that wind chimes keep them away! When I saw a rattlesnake in my back yard, I got some big windchimes, and havnt seen one since! Also they say that moth balls are good too, Ive put them around the edges of the house as well! If all else fails, get an exterminator or call animal control!
If you are in a wild area, you will not be able to keep snakes from occasionally wandering through. The wind chime thing is total BS, as snakes are deaf.
I agree with the poster that suggested you educate people about them, stop being afraid, and learn to live with them.
The snakes were there first!
moth balls
Deal with it. Snakes are part of that habitat and deserve it just as much as you do. Use that opportunity to educate your kids about snakes and nature as opposed to figuring out how to get rid of it.
The mothball idea is good. I recommend getting a field guide to snakes, in your area, and try to identify the kind of snake it is. Then, you can teach the kids about it. Maybe that will make them less afraid. Snakes are very misunderstood creatures and most of them are quite harmless.
Don't waste your time with mothballs. They don't work %26 can harm pets %26 the children. Keep your grass short, remove any debris that can be used as a hiding spot, %26 if possible, have someone that knows herps. come in %26 do a thorough sweep %26 search of the area. You may not find all the snakes in the area %26 as long as there are favorable conditions for them (food, shelter etc.) chances are that they'll hang around.
Help! Tokay behind radiator.?
Has anyone got any ideas how to coax a Tokay out from behind a radiator. She's been behind there for 3 days and we're getting concerned about her not eating. We've tried to coax her out with food, and even left the food there over night but she didn't even come out.
(Don't worry, we've kept the radiator off!!!)
We'd be grateful for any advice.
Answers:
It will come out on its own. Make sure that its warm enough in the room, say upper 70's at least, so the lizard will be warm enough to be active. Tokays are generally nocturnal, although I've frequently heard them calling during the day in the wild. As was already mentioned, be careful because their bites are quite painful and they don't relinquish their grip easily. Oh yeah, if it calls while its out then its a male.
What is a tokay?
Let it be, tokay geckos are VERY hardy and can go without food a LONG time. If you end up losing it don't worry, they are able to find food of their own (insects, small mice). When I was growing up I had 2 get loose in my parents house and would see them every once in a while. Tokays don't really make good pets (too agressive) if you want a good, nonaggressive lizard for a pet consider a leopard gecko, they are very docile and rarely bite anything but their food, but they are not as hardy.
idk r u my friend can i add u to my contacts write me back asap please
well rather than tell you tokays dont make good pets bc they bite, ill help you with your problem. im guessing you cant reach to where he is. unbend a coat hanger and touch him with it, and it might scare him to the other side where you can reach him. you should also try misting where he is with water to make sure he stays hydrated on his adventure.
i just caught a loose one a few days ago lol. can you slide something behind it? theres no way to coax it.maybe leave a warm tank with crickets in it near it and hope he goes in and stays in it.
Hello, they are hard to catch %26 chances are she is coming out while your asleep %26 eating..they love ceilings, where many bugs, especially flies go @ night when things cool down cuz warm air rises..so you might be able to catch her with a net in the middle of the night ..feasting..using a flash light %26 net..now you know why reptiles need secure enclosures, they are forever wild creatures who will escape if given the chance..and reptiles are slower when it's cold %26 they are cooled..I'd also leave her cage open..she might just return to it when it gets cold..if she hasn't escaped the home..Take Care :)
(Don't worry, we've kept the radiator off!!!)
We'd be grateful for any advice.
Answers:
It will come out on its own. Make sure that its warm enough in the room, say upper 70's at least, so the lizard will be warm enough to be active. Tokays are generally nocturnal, although I've frequently heard them calling during the day in the wild. As was already mentioned, be careful because their bites are quite painful and they don't relinquish their grip easily. Oh yeah, if it calls while its out then its a male.
What is a tokay?
Let it be, tokay geckos are VERY hardy and can go without food a LONG time. If you end up losing it don't worry, they are able to find food of their own (insects, small mice). When I was growing up I had 2 get loose in my parents house and would see them every once in a while. Tokays don't really make good pets (too agressive) if you want a good, nonaggressive lizard for a pet consider a leopard gecko, they are very docile and rarely bite anything but their food, but they are not as hardy.
idk r u my friend can i add u to my contacts write me back asap please
well rather than tell you tokays dont make good pets bc they bite, ill help you with your problem. im guessing you cant reach to where he is. unbend a coat hanger and touch him with it, and it might scare him to the other side where you can reach him. you should also try misting where he is with water to make sure he stays hydrated on his adventure.
i just caught a loose one a few days ago lol. can you slide something behind it? theres no way to coax it.maybe leave a warm tank with crickets in it near it and hope he goes in and stays in it.
Hello, they are hard to catch %26 chances are she is coming out while your asleep %26 eating..they love ceilings, where many bugs, especially flies go @ night when things cool down cuz warm air rises..so you might be able to catch her with a net in the middle of the night ..feasting..using a flash light %26 net..now you know why reptiles need secure enclosures, they are forever wild creatures who will escape if given the chance..and reptiles are slower when it's cold %26 they are cooled..I'd also leave her cage open..she might just return to it when it gets cold..if she hasn't escaped the home..Take Care :)
Help with my first pet Lizard.?
I have been looking at Chinese Water Lizards and Beareded dragons. I can't find anything much about the personality of the Water Dragon but from what i hear they are very similar to the Bearded Dragon. Any truth to that? I see alot of picture of people and thier Water Dragons "hanging out" and have even seen pic of people walking the Water Dragon on a leash.
What i have read about the bearded dragon is that they are very chill but like to snoop around in new places and check things out.
So I guess the question(s) is/are:
-Personality of Water/Bearded Dragon (and difference in sexes)?
-What would be the better "starter" lizard (I dont mean for practice and I am more than willing to put in the time and effort to care for my pet (I have been raising dogs and birds for more than 10 years)?
-Any and all tips?
-GREAT links?
-Finally...I have read about keeping Basilisks as pets but cant find much about thier personallities online, anyone know anything?
Thanks!
Answers:
Bearded Dragons (BDs) differ from Water Dragons (CWD's) in several of their requirements. Firstly, BDs are desert species that need dry desert conditions, unlike CWDs who need tropical (i.e. warm, but humid) habitats. CWDs will need a large bath in which to bathe and defaecate. BDs need a bowl of water but will not swim.
CWD require a vivarium (not aquarium as glass sides are unsuitable %26 will lead to stress/snout damage) which is taller, with plenty of branches and area to climb about in. BDs on the other hand, need a large floor space, but do not climb as much, (in fact, they can injure themselves if they fall from heights whereas CWDs are more robust, having a collapsible rib cage to protect from such mishaps).
Both types of lizards prefer company of fellow lizards. It is usual to keep 1 or 2 (or more) females with one male. Two males together of either species is not advised as they will likely fight until one or other is dead.
I personally keep Water dragons myself, having 4 females and a male in one large Viv (6ft long, 4ft high and 3ft deep). I also have one Australian male water dragon his viv is 3ft x 3ft x 3ft. Ideally, he requires a larger viv when we have room, however all my water dragons have the run of the house at various times when I am home, so he's more than happy at the mo.
A trio of BDs would require a 3ft x 4ft x 2ft high viv or larger.
However, some CWDs can be skittish and have problems and damage due to their highly active lifestyles. It's harder to really tame a CWD. BDs would be a much friendlier, easier lizard to start with. They are a nice size, easily handled as they don't run off and jump around like the CWDs. They are also much cheaper to feed as they eat lots of vegetables in their diet %26 a few live insects, whereas CWDs only eat live insects - I spend 拢40 a week feeding my lizards live bugs.
I have also spent about 拢2000 on vets bills over the past two years for various water dragons. btw vet 'insurance' for reptiles is only provided by one company called Exotic Direct, they have a bad reputation for not paying out on valid claims, I have first-hand experience of this, but also several reptile veterinary surgeries also agreed with me!
I hope this helps you make your decision.
Water dragons are VERY skittish creatures, my friend had one and it injured itself very badly trying to run away from him while he was feeding it, he is an experienced reptile handler so this was not caused by him. I would not recommend one as a beginner's lizard. Bearded dragons are a great idea as a beginner pet, however as they are pretty mild-tempered and take to handling well. I have one who is between 8-10 years old and he is a great pet, even for children, very calm.
Most female lizards are a bad idea, they are much more delicate than the male of the species and some require special care when they are of egg baring age, more hassle than they are worth.
I started collecting lizards about 2 years ago and have learned a lot since then, if you do some research before getting one it is a better idea. My best resource was kingsnake.com, they have forums and links to the best info out there. From my experiences, here is how I rate my lizards:
Bearded Dragon: Easy and fun, eats readily and got BIG fast! If you like to feed live pinky's and such then this is your lizard.
Frilled Dragon: Fun at first, as he gets older he is SO moody and threatens to bite! (but never has).
Veiled Chameleon: Hissing, biting jerk that you can't handle. Painful bite!!
Mali Uromastyx: Sweet, curious lizard, eats mostly veggies, a little shy but fun over all. Never bites, eats from my hand.
***Also, no matter what anyone says do NOT ever house 2 species of lizards together EVER, it is a recipe for disaster. It is a bad idea to house 2 reptiles of the same species together for long periods of time as well, but NEVER EVER house 2 different one together.***
get the watter dragon lot easier to take care of .both are cool but for you 1st the water dragon. when you get one ask about how to care for it. then ask yourself am i up for the challenge
Chinese Water Dragons need large cages with water and alot of climbing places, and will rub their noses raw if they are unhappy in their tanks. They however have the good looks of an iguana without the bad temper and large size. This good nature makes them great pets, but due to the level of upkeep of housing, they may not be a good starter lizard.
Beardies are also for more experienced keepers, as they can be terratorial, and will fight in small enclosures if you have not had them sexed (males will fight with other males, and sometimes females will not tolerate each other, either). They also are easily stressed and this can effect their health. They are awesome lizards once you get some more experience!
I love both of these kinds of lizards, but based on their needing 40 gallon tanks or larger, you may want to start with my favorite lizards in the world-Leopard Geckos. I breed them, and they are the perfect pet for people like me who have kept reptiles all of their life because they are beautiful and come in all kinds of colors, and are easy to breed. You will love them becuase you can house a few females with a male together in a breeding colony in a relatively small tank-10-20 gallons for each lizard, and they are so easy to take care of! Plus they are good natured-hardly bite, will walk over to you at feeding time, and some people say that their leos crawl on their hand when they put it in their cage. They are also hardy and will often outlive your dogs and cats (up to 30 years)! So check them out and give them a try. Another great gecko similar to the leo, but you don't have to feed it insects is the Crested Gecko. I have one of these guys, too, and he's just as fun as my breeding colony of leos.
As your first reptile...You are better off going with the bearded dragon, they are easier to take care of for the most part and have better temperments towards people...and water dragons, need very large rather complicated cages...
Bearded Dragons...as long as you don't feed them food that is too big for them, you usually don't have problems...
Get a young one, so you can raise it to know you...only feed them cricktes that are about 1/3 the size of their head...you can give them veggies like romain lettuce, but they probably wont eat it...
They get used to people VERY quickly, and like to be handled...
Both sexes tend to have the same temperment..
They don't need that big of a habitat...40 gal tank would to a beardie just fine for life...
You don't have to worry about huidity...just make sure it stays worm enough...and give them a small sorce of water...
Water Dragons...
Need very large cages...they can get up to 3 feet long...they love to climb so they need a tall cage rather than long...
Many people end up getting a shower set up for them as adults...it makes for a nice sized cage...
They usually don't like to be handled...you have to be very slow and very calm when handleing them...they freak out EASY and are VERY FAST!!! Once they get out of your hands, it can take a hot minute to catch them...
Then require a lot of humidiy 65% or more...keeping humidiy up is a pain exspecially in a bigger cage...
They need a large water source...which has to be cleaned daily...they play in their water and make a BIG mess...if they water isn't clean it can make them sick...
Water Dragons are noctorious for nose bumping...they think they can run through anything...and pay for it...they can cause themselves major damage to their noses because of this, if it's not taken care of properly they can get sick and die form it...
Don't get me wrong...water dragons make pretty good pets, and they are beautiful...but they are not a good first reptile...
Bearded Dragons make a great first reptile with their easy temperment and simple living conditions...
Hope this helps...GOOD LUCK!!!
What i have read about the bearded dragon is that they are very chill but like to snoop around in new places and check things out.
So I guess the question(s) is/are:
-Personality of Water/Bearded Dragon (and difference in sexes)?
-What would be the better "starter" lizard (I dont mean for practice and I am more than willing to put in the time and effort to care for my pet (I have been raising dogs and birds for more than 10 years)?
-Any and all tips?
-GREAT links?
-Finally...I have read about keeping Basilisks as pets but cant find much about thier personallities online, anyone know anything?
Thanks!
Answers:
Bearded Dragons (BDs) differ from Water Dragons (CWD's) in several of their requirements. Firstly, BDs are desert species that need dry desert conditions, unlike CWDs who need tropical (i.e. warm, but humid) habitats. CWDs will need a large bath in which to bathe and defaecate. BDs need a bowl of water but will not swim.
CWD require a vivarium (not aquarium as glass sides are unsuitable %26 will lead to stress/snout damage) which is taller, with plenty of branches and area to climb about in. BDs on the other hand, need a large floor space, but do not climb as much, (in fact, they can injure themselves if they fall from heights whereas CWDs are more robust, having a collapsible rib cage to protect from such mishaps).
Both types of lizards prefer company of fellow lizards. It is usual to keep 1 or 2 (or more) females with one male. Two males together of either species is not advised as they will likely fight until one or other is dead.
I personally keep Water dragons myself, having 4 females and a male in one large Viv (6ft long, 4ft high and 3ft deep). I also have one Australian male water dragon his viv is 3ft x 3ft x 3ft. Ideally, he requires a larger viv when we have room, however all my water dragons have the run of the house at various times when I am home, so he's more than happy at the mo.
A trio of BDs would require a 3ft x 4ft x 2ft high viv or larger.
However, some CWDs can be skittish and have problems and damage due to their highly active lifestyles. It's harder to really tame a CWD. BDs would be a much friendlier, easier lizard to start with. They are a nice size, easily handled as they don't run off and jump around like the CWDs. They are also much cheaper to feed as they eat lots of vegetables in their diet %26 a few live insects, whereas CWDs only eat live insects - I spend 拢40 a week feeding my lizards live bugs.
I have also spent about 拢2000 on vets bills over the past two years for various water dragons. btw vet 'insurance' for reptiles is only provided by one company called Exotic Direct, they have a bad reputation for not paying out on valid claims, I have first-hand experience of this, but also several reptile veterinary surgeries also agreed with me!
I hope this helps you make your decision.
Water dragons are VERY skittish creatures, my friend had one and it injured itself very badly trying to run away from him while he was feeding it, he is an experienced reptile handler so this was not caused by him. I would not recommend one as a beginner's lizard. Bearded dragons are a great idea as a beginner pet, however as they are pretty mild-tempered and take to handling well. I have one who is between 8-10 years old and he is a great pet, even for children, very calm.
Most female lizards are a bad idea, they are much more delicate than the male of the species and some require special care when they are of egg baring age, more hassle than they are worth.
I started collecting lizards about 2 years ago and have learned a lot since then, if you do some research before getting one it is a better idea. My best resource was kingsnake.com, they have forums and links to the best info out there. From my experiences, here is how I rate my lizards:
Bearded Dragon: Easy and fun, eats readily and got BIG fast! If you like to feed live pinky's and such then this is your lizard.
Frilled Dragon: Fun at first, as he gets older he is SO moody and threatens to bite! (but never has).
Veiled Chameleon: Hissing, biting jerk that you can't handle. Painful bite!!
Mali Uromastyx: Sweet, curious lizard, eats mostly veggies, a little shy but fun over all. Never bites, eats from my hand.
***Also, no matter what anyone says do NOT ever house 2 species of lizards together EVER, it is a recipe for disaster. It is a bad idea to house 2 reptiles of the same species together for long periods of time as well, but NEVER EVER house 2 different one together.***
get the watter dragon lot easier to take care of .both are cool but for you 1st the water dragon. when you get one ask about how to care for it. then ask yourself am i up for the challenge
Chinese Water Dragons need large cages with water and alot of climbing places, and will rub their noses raw if they are unhappy in their tanks. They however have the good looks of an iguana without the bad temper and large size. This good nature makes them great pets, but due to the level of upkeep of housing, they may not be a good starter lizard.
Beardies are also for more experienced keepers, as they can be terratorial, and will fight in small enclosures if you have not had them sexed (males will fight with other males, and sometimes females will not tolerate each other, either). They also are easily stressed and this can effect their health. They are awesome lizards once you get some more experience!
I love both of these kinds of lizards, but based on their needing 40 gallon tanks or larger, you may want to start with my favorite lizards in the world-Leopard Geckos. I breed them, and they are the perfect pet for people like me who have kept reptiles all of their life because they are beautiful and come in all kinds of colors, and are easy to breed. You will love them becuase you can house a few females with a male together in a breeding colony in a relatively small tank-10-20 gallons for each lizard, and they are so easy to take care of! Plus they are good natured-hardly bite, will walk over to you at feeding time, and some people say that their leos crawl on their hand when they put it in their cage. They are also hardy and will often outlive your dogs and cats (up to 30 years)! So check them out and give them a try. Another great gecko similar to the leo, but you don't have to feed it insects is the Crested Gecko. I have one of these guys, too, and he's just as fun as my breeding colony of leos.
As your first reptile...You are better off going with the bearded dragon, they are easier to take care of for the most part and have better temperments towards people...and water dragons, need very large rather complicated cages...
Bearded Dragons...as long as you don't feed them food that is too big for them, you usually don't have problems...
Get a young one, so you can raise it to know you...only feed them cricktes that are about 1/3 the size of their head...you can give them veggies like romain lettuce, but they probably wont eat it...
They get used to people VERY quickly, and like to be handled...
Both sexes tend to have the same temperment..
They don't need that big of a habitat...40 gal tank would to a beardie just fine for life...
You don't have to worry about huidity...just make sure it stays worm enough...and give them a small sorce of water...
Water Dragons...
Need very large cages...they can get up to 3 feet long...they love to climb so they need a tall cage rather than long...
Many people end up getting a shower set up for them as adults...it makes for a nice sized cage...
They usually don't like to be handled...you have to be very slow and very calm when handleing them...they freak out EASY and are VERY FAST!!! Once they get out of your hands, it can take a hot minute to catch them...
Then require a lot of humidiy 65% or more...keeping humidiy up is a pain exspecially in a bigger cage...
They need a large water source...which has to be cleaned daily...they play in their water and make a BIG mess...if they water isn't clean it can make them sick...
Water Dragons are noctorious for nose bumping...they think they can run through anything...and pay for it...they can cause themselves major damage to their noses because of this, if it's not taken care of properly they can get sick and die form it...
Don't get me wrong...water dragons make pretty good pets, and they are beautiful...but they are not a good first reptile...
Bearded Dragons make a great first reptile with their easy temperment and simple living conditions...
Hope this helps...GOOD LUCK!!!
Help with my baby slider plzzzzz?
my baby sliders dont eat anything i give them exept zoo med turtle treats. i got them 4 days ago im very worryed i have right temp and right filter and right light also good tank. my turtles are as skinny as a bone. any suggestions??
Answers:
1. Turtles hate change. being brought home stressed them and it may be a couple more days before they settle down.
2. Offer them the right food and leave them alone.
http://www.austinsturtlepage.com...
Don't give it anything but it's pelet food. If you start them off on treats, that's all they'll eat and then they'll refuse to eat anything healthy later in life and die prematurely due to malnutrition. They may not eat the pelets because they're not used to their surroundings and because you've given them treats. Don't give them any more treats at all for at least 2 weeks so that they'll become acustomed to the pelets that are actually good for them.
First many reptiles don't eat for several days after being moved, also turtles can go for very long periods of time without eating, so you shouldn't worry. I sujest giving it a more natural diet, in the wild they would eat fish, insects and other animals, so give it some small feeder fish and earth worms, or some other form of live food. You can also give it some aquatic vegetation. This is what they eat in the wild, so it is what they prefer in captivaty.
Answers:
1. Turtles hate change. being brought home stressed them and it may be a couple more days before they settle down.
2. Offer them the right food and leave them alone.
http://www.austinsturtlepage.com...
Don't give it anything but it's pelet food. If you start them off on treats, that's all they'll eat and then they'll refuse to eat anything healthy later in life and die prematurely due to malnutrition. They may not eat the pelets because they're not used to their surroundings and because you've given them treats. Don't give them any more treats at all for at least 2 weeks so that they'll become acustomed to the pelets that are actually good for them.
First many reptiles don't eat for several days after being moved, also turtles can go for very long periods of time without eating, so you shouldn't worry. I sujest giving it a more natural diet, in the wild they would eat fish, insects and other animals, so give it some small feeder fish and earth worms, or some other form of live food. You can also give it some aquatic vegetation. This is what they eat in the wild, so it is what they prefer in captivaty.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)