How old do corn snakes have to be before they can be bred??

i have a one year old corn snake and was thinking of buying one of similiar size
Answers:
Sexual maturation of reptiles is generally a function of SIZE, not age.
When they are adult sized, they will breed.
The age at which they reach their adult size is a result of how much %26 how often they eat.
More food=faster growth=breed sooner.
Be aware though, overfeeding causes health problems and short life expectancy.

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At about a year %26 a half..18 months to 2 years old...but it's not just a matter of putting 2 snakes together...there are certain %26 requirements %26 needs that have to be met for the best results..TC %26 Peace :)

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Breeding Corn Snakes

First of all, it must be stressed that you should only attempt to breed your corns after doing loads of research. Your best bet would be to buy The Corn Snake Manual by Bill and Kathy Love. You should also think about what you are going to do with all the babies and whether or not you will be able to look after them until they are sold. I might also add that the minimum size that you should breed females at is around three feet. Anything much under that could seriously endanger the animal(s).
The snakes' environment must be altered before breeding to encourage brumation - this is a lot like hibernation but the snakes can still remain fairly active. Brumation is a simulated winter. Most breeders do this because it stimulates reactions in snakes that prepare them for mating the following Spring. Some breeders choose not to brumate and still get very good results. However, eggs are more likely if these changes have occurred.
The beginning of the breeding process is the 'fattening up'. This comes just before brumation to ensure that both males and females have enough nutrients to make it through the winter. Starting in September feed your snakes twice as much as usual. This means offering two items each week instead of one. Females will usually eat a little more than males.
Before you start to cool down your snakes, it is vital that their guts have been completely emptied. To do this, stop feeding and keep the temperature as normal for three or four weeks before brumation. Make sure you still provide clean water daily. When you are sure that your snakes' tummies are empty, you should cool them down to 61 degrees Fahrenheit (16 Celsius) very slowly over a two-week period. Their light should be reduced to almost nothing within this time also. Give fresh water twice a week but try not to disturb them too much. Brumation should last for around 2.5-three months. It is important not to disturb the snakes too much during this time but fresh water should be provided twice a week. The whole process of emptying guts and cooling down should start in early-mid November.
The snakes should be warmed back up over a two-week period to their normal temperature of around 85 degrees. Temp should be back to normal by early March. After about a week at the normal temperature, you may offer the animals food again. When the female has her first shed after coming out of brumation, she will be ready to mate in about a week. Place the male in her viv and wait. Copulation (mating) can take from about twenty minutes to an hour and a half. To be sure the mating has occurred, leave the male in the cage over night and remove the next day. Give both snakes a few days rest, and then reintroduce the male for a further day. This can be done four or five times and a double clutch may or may not occur. If mating has been successful then eggs should be laid in around 30-45 days.
When the female sheds, it usually means that the eggs will be laid in around 10-14 days. At this point you should place a large box with a whole cut in it in the top so the eggs can be laid inside. The box should ideally be filled with damp sphagnum moss or paper towels and should be big enough for two snakes of her size to fit inside of. Use a box with more horizontal space than vertical. By this time, the male should long since have returned to his own cage.
Eggs will either be fertile or infertile. Healthy, fertile eggs are a plain white a slightly yellowish-white. The shape of them can be anything from oblong to nearly round and they are 0.75 to 1.5 inches (1.9-3.8 cm) in length. After a few hours, healthy eggs are smooth and dry in appearance. Infertile eggs, however, are often wet looking and very yellow. They are usually very small and sometimes dented. If you are 100% sure that eggs are infertile then you may dispose of them but it is a good idea to put all eggs in the incubator as some really odd eggs have hatched out as gorgeous, healthy babies. To be absolutely sure that these eggs don't infect the healthy ones, keep them separate from other incubating eggs by keeping them in a plastic box.
A few hours after laying, it is time to transfer the eggs from the nesting box to the incubator. If the eggs are separate you must make a pencil (not pen) mark on the top of the shell to ensure you keep them the right way up. If the eggs are in one or two big clumps then DO NOT separate them. Put a thick layer of sphagnum moss at the bottom of the incubator and lay the eggs on top. Then lay another layer of moss on top of the eggs. The moss needs to be damp, not sodden. To achieve this, soak it in water and ring out the excess.
The best temperature to keep inside the incubator is 80 Fahrenheit (27 Celsius). At this temperature, eggs will hatch in about ten weeks. Eggs can be successfully incubated at lower temperatures but be careful not to make it too hot. If the eggs are overheated then the babies can develop problems such as kinks. Many incubators do not have marked temperature dials but just plain knobs. You must experiment to find the correct level of heat before the eggs have been laid.
Read up on these sites,
http://www.gotpetsonline.com/corn-snake/...
http://www.tetra-fish.com/fauna/cornsnak...